https://pipedia.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Olocedex&feedformat=atomPipedia - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T18:48:52ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.39.6https://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Hardcastle&diff=12004Hardcastle2010-11-23T22:32:28Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://yxylepo.co.cc UNDER COSTRUCTION, PLEASE SEE THIS POST IN RESERVE COPY]=<br />
[[Image:Hardcastle Ad.jpg|left|thumb|Hardcastle Counter Display Ad, courtesy [http://www.advertisingantiques.co.uk/ Advertising Antiques]]]Harcastle was founded in 1908 by '''Edmund Hardcastle''' and built itself a good reputation among the numerous British mid-graders. In 1935 '''[[Dunhill]]''' started to build a factory next door to Hardcastle in Forest Road, Walthamstow, London E17. The family owned '''Hardcastle Pipes Limited''' sold 49% of its equity to Dunhill In 1936. <br />
<br />
Along with closing down it’s pipe factory in Notting Hill in 1946 Dunhill bought the remaining shares turning Hardcastle into a 100% Dunhill subsidiary. As members of the Hardcastle family continued as executives in the company’s management Hardcastle retained a certain independence.<br />
<br />
This ended in 1967. Dunhill merged Hardcastle with '''[[Parker]]''' (100% Dunhill as well). The new '''Parker Hardcastle Limited''' also absorbed the former '''[[Masta Patent Pipe Company]]'''. Hardcastle’s Forest Road plant was immediately given up and the production of Hardcastle pipes was shifted to Parker’s nearby St. Andrews Road factory – now consequently called Parker-Hardcastle factory.<br />
<br />
In fact this put a definite end to Hardcastle as a own-standing pipe brand and no one minor than '''Edwin Hardcastle''', the last of the family executives, spoke frankly and loudly of Hardcastle pipes being degenerated to an inferior Dunhill second.<br />
<br />
Today Hardcastle pipes use funneled down bowls that are not deemed suitable to bare the Dunhill or not even the Parker name as well as obtaining briar from other sources.<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:hardcastle1.jpg|thumb|left|1944 6 day set, courtesy of [http://www.finepipes.com/index.php FinePipes.com]]][[Image:hardcastle2.jpg|thumb|right|1944 6 day set, courtesy of [http://www.finepipes.com/index.php FinePipes.com]]]<br />
John Loring states in &quot;The Dunhill Briar Pipe - 'the patent years and after'&quot; that in the absence of sales receipts, or other items of provenance, Hardcastles cannot be accurately dated. Loring further states that he knows of no way to distinguish the briar source when looking at Hardcastle, Parker, or Parker-Hardcastle pipes. We should not expect to find any actual Dunhill production in these lines, and while one might be there, it is doubtful we will ever be able to determine it [http://www.loringpage.com/attpipes/book.html].<br />
<br />
The pipes pictured are from a 1944 6-day set. Made during the war when Dunhill owned 49% of the company, and two years before they bought the remaining shares. German vulcanite was unavailable during the war, so these pipes are fitted with horn stems. The original listing notes &quot;...the quality of workmanship is beyond reproach, the smooth pipes being free of obvious pits or fills, and with rich, deep color; and the sandblasts crisp and deep. Drillings are spot-on.&quot; <br />
<br />
This set originally appeared on [http://FinePipes.com FinePipes.com]. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Models &amp; Grades ==<br />
<br />
'''Pre-Cadogan Era'''<br />
<br />
Straight Grain, Supergrain, Leweard, Nut Bruyere, De Luxe, Royal Windsor Sandhewn, Royal Crown, The Crown, Phito Dental, Old Bruyere, Jack, O'London, Dental Briar, Phito, Dental, Druconomy, Drawel, Phithu, Telebirar, Camden, Lightweight, The Table, Dovetail, Dental, Crescent Extra, Lonsdale, Welard De Luxe<br />
<br />
'''Seconds'''<br />
<br />
Start, Argyle, After Lunch, Crescent, Duke, Jockey Club, Scout<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Epilog'''<br />
<br />
In 1977 '''Dunhill Pipes Limited''' was estabished. This new Ltd. transferred the entire production of Dunhill pipes in March of 1982 from Cumberland Road, Plaistow, London E13 to the Parker-Hardcastle factory in Walthamstow.<br />
<br />
Since this fusion the telephone book of London Town listed<br />
* '''Parker Hardcastle Briar Pipes Mfrs''', 32 St. Andrews Rd, London E17 6BQ, call 020 84984000<br />
and<br />
* '''Dunhill Pipes &amp; Smokers Requisites''', 32 St. Andrews Rd, London E17 6BQ, call 020 84984000<br />
<br />
So, hopefully the clerk answering the phone puts on the correct team cap depending on the brand you call for…<br />
<br />
In other words: What differs Dunhill’s today’s manner of pipe production from the often derided multi brand production of the Cadogan Group in Southend-on-Sea, Essex?<br />
<br />
[[Category: Pipe makers by nationality]]<br />
[[Category: Great Britain]]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Pipe_Packing_and_Smoking_techniques&diff=12003Pipe Packing and Smoking techniques2010-11-23T22:32:21Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://oqagacyti.co.cc Page Is Unavailable Due To Site Maintenance, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=<br />
The information presented here was originally formed from the excellent [http://www.aspipes.org/faq/faq/official.html Alt.Smokers.Pipes FAQ]<br />
<br />
== Selecting your first pipe ==<br />
When selecting your first pipe, the best advice to follow is &quot;Pick one you like.&quot; However, given the considerable range of materials, prices and designs, more in-depth guidance follows.<br />
<br />
While you're buying the pipe, pick up a package of pipe cleaners (the soft, cotton ones are best for most purposes), and a cheap &quot;pipe tool&quot; or &quot;tamper&quot;; you'll need them.<br />
<br />
If you are trying to switch to pipes and give up cigarettes check out this excellent article by Steve Fallon: [[Good-Bye Cigarettes, Hello Pipe!]]<br />
<br />
=== Material ===<br />
[[Image:costello1.gif|thumb|[[Castello]] Old Antiquari GG pipe made of '''briar wood''', courtesy of pipes2smoke.com]]<br />
For your first pipe, you'd do well to select one made of [[Materials_and_Construction#Briar|briar]], the [[Pipe Making|pipe-making]] material most commonly used due to its durability, heat resistance, and pleasing appearance. Other materials such as [[Materials_and_Construction#Clay|clay]], [[Materials_and_Construction#Meerschaum|meerschaum]] and porcelain are also used to make pipes, but these materials are fragile and lack the smoking characteristics and ease of use of briar. [[Materials_and_Construction#Corncob|Corncob]] pipes are the least expensive option for a first pipe, and they are a viable alternative to briar; however, they often have very small bowls—the part of the pipe that holds the tobacco—and brittle plastic stems that are quite easy to bite through.<br />
<br />
Most briar pipes have stems made of vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic); either material works fine, and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice. Vulcanite is softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is more durable and resists oxidation.<br />
<br />
See Also: [[Materials and Construction]] and [[What Makes a Good Briar Pipe]] by R.D. Field<br />
<br />
=== Shape and size ===<br />
The shape of a pipe is entirely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe smokers prefer pipes that are bent, as they &quot;hang&quot; better, putting less strain on the teeth and jaw. Others prefer straight-stemmed pipes, predominately for aesthetic reasons, but also because it is easier to insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that occasionally collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed study of pipe shapes and pipe anatomy, see the [http://www.aspipes.org/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=38&amp;Itemid=41 alt.smokers.pipes home page guide] or the [http://www.fujipub.com/ooops/pipeshap.html OoOPS Guide to Identifying Pipes].<br />
<br />
In terms of size, you'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco to finish comfortably, initially.<br />
<br />
=== Price ===<br />
Pipes range in price from a couple of dollars to several thousand; it is recommended that you spend a modest amount for your first pipe. By purchasing a moderately-priced pipe, you will not be out a large sum if you determine that pipe smoking isn't for you. Try not to purchase one of those pipes you may find in plastic bubble packaging at your local discount store if you can avoid it; instead, seek out a good tobacconist and ask for his or her recommendation. Not only will this give you a broader selection from which to choose, but the tobacconist is likely to have some good advice on how to get started. Don't be afraid to tell the shop owner that you're a novice. He or she will figure this out pretty quickly on their own anyway, and it is in their own best interest to help you select a pipe and tobacco that they think you'll enjoy. If you don't know where to find a reputable tobacconist, check the [http://www.pipes.org/resource_guide.html Pipes Digest Resource Guide], the [http://www.aspipes.org/ ASP Home Page] or ask the newsgroup for a recommendation.<br />
<br />
;Basket pipes<br />
:A reasonable quality &quot;basket&quot; pipe (so-called because most tobacconists keep their lower-priced, &quot;no-name&quot; pipes in an open basket near the sales counter) can be had for as little as $15, and many name-brand manufacturers produce pipes in the $35-60 range.<br />
<br />
;Seconds<br />
:A true &quot;second&quot; is a pipe that has some kind of flaw (which is almost always cosmetic in nature) and is therefore not deemed worthy to carry the manufacturer's usual brand name. Typically, such pipes are simply stamped &quot;Imported Briar&quot; or something similar; however, some manufacturers have distinctive stampings for their cosmetically-challenged pipes (such as Peterson's &quot;Irish Seconds&quot;). You can find some very good pipes at a reduced price because they have surface flaws—pits, putty &quot;fills&quot; in the briar, imperfect carving, etc.—that do not affect the way they smoke at all. Many of the inexpensive pipes that you will find at your tobacconist (to include &quot;basket&quot; pipes and most &quot;house brands&quot;) are &quot;seconds&quot; of one sort or another.<br />
<br />
;Estate pipes<br />
:In the pipe smoking community, &quot;estate&quot; is a euphemism for &quot;used.&quot; By buying an estate pipe, it is possible to get a high quality pipe for much less than it would cost new. (It is also possible to buy a piece of junk at a greatly inflated price, so ''caveat emptor'' applies.) While these pipes are usually thoroughly cleaned before they are sold, some people are appalled at the idea of smoking a pipe that was smoked by someone else. It should be noted that the previous owner's smoking habits will have at least a minor affect on the taste the pipe will impart to tobacco.<br />
<br />
=== Filters ===<br />
You should not be inhaling smoke when enjoying your pipe, so a filter is, in the opinion of many, superfluous. One major drawback to most filtering systems is that they tend to affect the taste of the tobacco—for the worse—if not kept meticulously clean. With that said, in some parts of the world, particularly Central Europe, pipe filters are quite common. Many of the pipes sold there have a cavity in the shank—that part of the pipe that connects the bowl to the stem—designed to accommodate 9mm filters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a filter in your pipe. If you prefer filters, then by all means use them. Nevertheless, you don't need them.<br />
<br />
== Selecting your first tobacco ==<br />
As with selecting your first pipe, &quot;Pick one you like&quot;. If you have had experience with only cigarettes and cigars, you're in for a real treat. The variety of pipe tobaccos is positively staggering, and the flavor of a blend is influenced not only by its component tobaccos, but also by myriad other factors such as the style of cut and the pipe used to smoke it. The only way to determine which sort of tobacco is right for you is to try a number of very different blends to decide which general type you like, and then proceed from there. Some of us are constantly searching for the perfect blend, affectionately known as &quot;The Holy Grail.&quot;<br />
<br />
=== Varieties ===<br />
;&quot;Drugstore&quot; Tobaccos<br />
:Generally, you will be better off purchasing your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends found in discount stores or supermarkets are made from lower-quality tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for preservation and &quot;taste enhancement&quot; alter the way a tobacco smokes, usually for the worse. Of course, there is no harm in sampling these tobaccos; you may discover that one such blend is just your cup of tea. Most &quot;drugstore blends&quot; have been around for decades, so they must have something going for them.<br />
:If you live in an area where there are no tobacconists, you can always shop online, or you might try the drugstore-supermarket brands, Captain Black (Americas no. 1 selling pipe tobacco) which is very mild, and flavorful, or Borkum Riff, a bit hotter and wetter smoking. Granted, they may not satisfy the connoisseur's refined tastes. They are tobacco for the masses, but they aren't too bad. The large tins are usually fresh. The small pouches may not be.<br />
<br />
;Faux Pipe Tobaccos (a relative term)<br />
:This is a new variety of &quot;pipe&quot; tobacco which has emerged recently (2009) in America, and posibly other countries. It is actually roll-your-own cigarette tobacco, which is being marketed as Premium Pipe Tobacco, to avoid the ridiculously, high taxes and regulatory requirements on cigarette tobacco. In a pipe it's not so good, I think, compared to real pipe tobacco. Oddly enough, though, it seems to work fine in cigarettes. On the other hand, it is tobacco which can be smoked in a pipe, and it is you who decides, good or bad, not me or the government.<br />
<br />
<br />
;Aromatics vs. non-aromatics<br />
:These are the two broadest subdivisions of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning smokers tend to go for an &quot;aromatic&quot; tobacco, which has been &quot;cased&quot; or &quot;topped&quot; with flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while those converting from cigars or cigarettes often prefer an &quot;non-aromatic&quot; or &quot;natural&quot; tobacco.<br />
<br />
:;Aromatics<br />
::A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped with a natural flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics, which can lead to problems smoking them. These problems can be avoided if care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the pipe.<br />
<br />
:;Non-aromatics<br />
::These are tobaccos that contain no flavored additives; in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no additives whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water.<br />
<br />
::Many well-meaning tobacconists do a disservice to the novice by suggesting a &quot;mild&quot; tobacco, especially an aromatic tobacco, to start with. Until the smoker is used to the mechanics of smoking a pipe, and has cultivated a sense for the flavors and aromas s/he will be experiencing, their sensory response is not dramatic. If they start with a mild tobacco, they will likely puff like a locomotive to attempt to get something out of it that resembles flavor, not to mention the difficulty they may have in keeping a pipe lit. If the tobacco is a goopy aromatic, the problem is magnified.<br />
<br />
;G. L. Pease recommendation on beginner's tobacco<br />
:“I generally recommend a full flavored, but not strong tobacco to the beginner. They'll be much more likely to get some flavor from their early experiences, and it will be much easier, then, for them to apprehend the idea of 'slowing down,' which is crucial to a great smoke. Once they've learned some of the mechanics of pipe smoking, and their senses have become accustomed to some of the myriad flavors tobaccos can present, they are better armed to move into more subtle, or 'mild' blends. For the beginner, 'mild' tobaccos are generally far from mild!”<br />
:''From the [http://glpease.com/FAQ.html G. L. Pease FAQ], and used by permission.''<br />
<br />
=== Storage ===<br />
The moisture content of a tobacco affects the way it smokes and tastes; a tobacco that is too moist or too dry will not offer a pleasing smoke. One way to determine if your tobacco has the proper level of moisture is the &quot;pinch test.&quot; Take a pinch of your tobacco and squeeze it tightly for a couple of seconds, then release it. If it immediately starts to &quot;unravel,&quot; your tobacco is in good shape. If it stays in a tight clump, it is too wet. If it crumbles, it is too dry.<br />
<br />
Tobacco purchased in tins should retain its moisture for several weeks after opening. Blends purchased in &quot;bulk,&quot; or tinned tobaccos that are to be stored for many weeks or months after opening should be stored in some type of container. Standard resealable zipper bags are not airtight, and your tobacco will dry out over time if they are used for storage. Similar bags designed for use in the freezer are better, but still aren't completely satisfactory for anything other than relatively short term storage. Some people advocate the use of multiple bags in a Tupperware container, &quot;Mason&quot; jars, or heat-sealed, vacuum-pack bags. All of these methods are satisfactory; however, I prefer to use bail-top jars with rubber gaskets.<br />
<br />
If your tobacco is too moist, you can leave the container open slightly while monitoring it closely. If your tobacco has dried out, it is usually possible to revive it. (There is a point beyond which no amount of re-moistening is going to restore the flavor of a tobacco, but that time span is generally measured in months or years.) Some advocate placing a slice of apple or potato in the tobacco container. While that may introduce moisture, it will also introduce mold and other impurities. Unlike cheese, the flavor of tobacco is not improved by mold, and once your container has been so contaminated, it is almost impossible to completely rid it of the mold spores that will attempt to infest any tobacco placed in that container in the future. A much safer method is to spray a tiny amount of distilled water into the container and reseal it for a day or two, or purchase a ceramic humidifying disk from your tobacconist and place it in the storage container.<br />
<br />
== Smoking basics ==<br />
<br />
=== &quot;Breaking in&quot; your pipe ===<br />
The process of &quot;breaking in&quot; a pipe serves two functions. First, any saps, resins, acids, stains, demons, or other nasty things that have remained in the briar are driven out. Second, and most importantly, a &quot;cake&quot;--the layer of charred residue that builds up inside the bowl as tobacco is smoked in it--is developed. This cake protects the bowl of the pipe from the heat of burning tobacco and prevents it from &quot;burning out.&quot; It should be noted that most of the information in this section applies to briar pipes only. Most other pipes require no break in period, or at most a very brief one. Additionally, one should not allow a cake to build up in a meerschaum or clay, as this could cause the bowl to crack.<br />
<br />
It is important to smoke a new pipe slowly, to avoid damaging the naked briar. Some recommend that a new pipe be filled only one-third to one-half full for the first several smokes, after which the bowl can be filled a little more with each smoke. To be honest, this procedure is not necessary, but I always recommend it--and usually practice it--because it is all too easy to damage a new pipe through carelessness. Don't try to rush the break-in period, and don't be overly concerned if a new pipe has a bitter taste. Some pipes break in easier than others, and it is not uncommon for a pipe that is very difficult to break in to mature into a great smoker.<br />
<br />
Some pipes are sold with a bowl coating designed to protect the briar until a cake is built up (sometimes such bowls are called &quot;pre-carbonized&quot;). Many pipes, however, are not so treated. While a &quot;naked&quot; bowl is not likely to be damaged so long as the pipe is smoked slowly, many people advocate preparing the bowl interior of a new pipe. Some recommend that the inside of the bowl be dampened with water to protect the briar, while others recommend honey, or a mixture of honey and water. Honey may help a cake form more quickly, but after trying all of these techniques I find that these days I tend to use nothing at all.<br />
<br />
Finally, try not to smoke a new pipe outdoors if you can possibly avoid it. Even a gentle breeze will cause the pipe to burn much hotter than it would indoors, which can irreparably damage a briar that is not protected by a cake. I've never had a problem smoking my pipes outdoors (after they've been broken in, of course), but if you're concerned about possible damage, you can purchase wind caps from your tobacconist which will shield the burning tobacco from the effects of wind.<br />
<br />
Fred Hanna has written an excellent article on this subject that we highly recommend called [[The Mysteries of the Briar Break-in Process]].<br />
<br />
=== &quot;Packing&quot; your pipe ===<br />
A pipe must be packed properly to ensure a good smoke; unfortunately, learning to do this takes time and practice. In fact, the art of packing a pipe is the most difficult task associated with pipe smoking, and this can be very frustrating for the beginner. I suspect that most people who have given up on trying to learn to smoke a pipe did so primarily because they couldn't master packing a bowl quickly enough to suit them.<br />
<br />
The most common technique for packing a pipe is the &quot;three layer&quot; method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is evenly packed from top to bottom; this is done by packing each layer progressively tighter. Trickle tobacco into the bowl until it is slightly overfull, then press very lightly with your finger until the bowl appears half full. Fill the pipe again and press down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4 full. Finally, overfill the pipe and press the top layer down fairly firmly. When finished the tobacco should feel &quot;springy&quot; to the touch. If it has no give at all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an indentation, it is packed too loosely. Finally, test the &quot;draw&quot; by sucking air through the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about like that felt when sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw doesn't feel right, then empty the bowl and start over. A slightly different touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the cut and moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second nature with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading your pipe without even thinking about it.<br />
<br />
Frequently, the tiny smoke hole in the tobacco chamber may become clogged with tobacco, when filling and packing the bowl. It is not necessary to empty the bowl to correct this problem. Just remove the tip, and then clear the smoke hole with the reamer tool, a thin steel rod.<br />
<br />
If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply can't get the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a method suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the tobacco, reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4&quot; long. The bowl is then packed as described above. Some people have found that this method can make the task of packing a bowl much easier.<br />
<br />
A recent pipe-packing technique known as &quot;The Frank Method&quot; has grown in favor, presented at the 2004 Chicagoland Pipe Show. See the following links: [http://www.newyorkpipeclub.com/FrankCentral.html New York Pipe Club's presentation] or [http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze43wza/franck.html Jim Murray's site]. Here's a set of YouTube videos posted by Herr Frank demonstrating his pipe filling method [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJP0JaNRw6Q Frank Method].<br />
<br />
=== Lighting your pipe ===<br />
Barring such bizarre contraptions as parabolic mirrors, lasers, and miniature blowtorches, there are three ways to light your pipe: with a match, with a butane lighter, or with a fluid lighter (e.g. a &quot;Zippo&quot;).<br />
<br />
The wooden match is the traditional pipe lighting device. Strike the match and hold it for a second or two while the sulfur burns off. Bring the match to the tobacco surface and, while puffing gently, move the match around the tobacco in a slow, even circle.<br />
<br />
Butane lighters are more convenient than matches, and, unlike fluid lighters, there is less risk of imparting an unpleasant taste to your tobacco. If you wish to use a butane lighter, then purchase one that is designed for pipes. Such lighters have an angled gas outlet that makes it easier to direct the flame into the bowl while avoiding burned fingers.<br />
<br />
Fluid lighters share the convenience feature of butane, and they provide the only truly reliable means of lighting a pipe in a stiff wind. Zippo makes a lighter designed for pipes that has a circular hole in the chimney which is placed over the bowl while the flame is &quot;sucked&quot; into the tobacco. Other types of fluid lighters may be used as well, but their broad flame makes it all too easy to char the rim of the pipe bowl. The primary disadvantage to fluid lighters is that they can impart a slight taste to the tobacco. Some swear that this can be prevented if one merely waits a few seconds after igniting the lighter before lighting the tobacco. I can still taste (smell?) the lighter fluid, however, and I prefer my tobacco sans naphtha.<br />
<br />
=== Keeping your pipe lit ===<br />
Don't be overly concerned if you have difficulty keeping your pipe lit at first. It is not unusual for even experienced smokers to have to re-light several times, especially toward the bottom of the bowl. Try to relax and enjoy yourself--that is the whole point, after all. You'll find it much easier to keep your pipe lit with practice.<br />
<br />
;Charring Light<br />
:The best way to keep your pipe lit is to light it correctly at the beginning. Most people light their pipe twice. Light the pipe as described above and puff a half dozen times or so. Then tamp the surface of the tobacco down with your pipe tool and re-light. The first lighting, often called the &quot;charring light&quot; or &quot;false light,&quot; will char the top of the tobacco and prepare this surface for the second lighting which will, with practice, take you through most of the bowl.<br />
<br />
;Tamping<br />
:While smoking, ash residue will form at the top of the tobacco. This residue should be gently tamped down periodically during the course of a smoke and prior to re-lighting. This tamping serves to keep the tobacco--which expands as it burns--properly packed and promotes even burning. If the pipe has an especially tall bowl, the ash may sometimes become so thick that it is difficult to re-light the tobacco below it. If this occurs, loosen the ash gently with your pipe tool, dump the ash, tamp, and re-light.<br />
<br />
;Clogs<br />
:Sometimes while smoking, the tiny smoke hole in the tobacco chamber may become clogged with tobacco, especially after tamping, and even though you can draw on the pipe, you can't get much smoke. Assuming there is tobacco remaining to be smoked, just remove the tip, and then clear the smoke hole with the reamer tool, a thin steel rod, and then relight the pipe.<br />
<br />
;Smoking Pace<br />
:The pace at which you smoke (i.e. the rhythm at which you puff your pipe) is very important. With practice and experimentation you will achieve the perfect pace for you. The idea is to puff frequently enough to keep the tobacco lit, but not so frequently as to cause the pipe to burn too hot, which contributes to tongue bite and may damage your pipe. If you can't hold the bowl of your pipe comfortably in your hand, or if you can't hold the side of the bowl against your face for more than a few seconds, then you're smoking too fast. If this happens, set the pipe down for a few minutes to cool, then re-light and start again. Someone once described the perfect smoking pace as one where the pipe is always on the verge of going out.<br />
<br />
== Basic pipe maintenance ==<br />
<br />
=== Cleaning ===<br />
Your pipe should be cleaned after each smoke. To do this, first let the pipe cool and then scoop or dump out any ash and &quot;dottle&quot; (unburned tobacco that sometimes remains in the bottom of the bowl). Do not bang the pipe against a hard surface, as this may result in a cracked shank or broken stem. Believe me, I lost a whole pipe after I did this on a rail over a creek. The pipe broke in half, fell in and sailed down the creek and out into a nearby river. Instead of using brute force, buy a pipe nail; they cost 50¢ and you can use the long end to scoop the tobacco out of the pipe, and afterwards, blow through the empty pipe to remove any remaining dottle. Once the bowl is empty, run a pipe cleaner through the stem until it just enters the bowl and remove it. Repeat with additional cleaners until they come out clean (many people, myself included, will use both ends of a pipe cleaner before switching to a new one). Finally, take one of the used cleaners, bend it into a &quot;U&quot; shape, and wipe out the ash clinging to the sides of the bowl. [NOTE: Some people prefer to leave the ash in the bowl, believing that it promotes a good cake. If you like, try both ways and see what works best for you.] Set the pipe aside to dry completely. *Ideally*, the pipe should be allowed to &quot;rest&quot; for around 48 hours before smoking it again, but you might have to forgo this luxury until you have enough pipes to do so.<br />
<br />
Periodically, you'll want to clean your pipe a bit more thoroughly. In addition to the steps above, you'll also want to carefully remove the stem from the shank and wipe out the &quot;gunk&quot; that collects in the mortise; a cotton swab (e.g. a &quot;Q-tip&quot;) works well for this task. Some people also advocate periodic cleaning of the stem and shank with pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol (preferably some form of grain alcohol), particularly if the pipe begins to taste a bit musty or sour. Do not, however, get alcohol anywhere near the bowl of a meerschaum pipe.<br />
<br />
CAUTION! PAY ATTENTION HERE!! Never, ever, ever take the stem out of a pipe while it is still hot. Allow the pipe to cool for at least an hour before attempting to remove the stem. [I'm of the opinion that you should let the pipe dry completely before removing the stem, as well.] Repeatedly removing the stem from a hot pipe will result in a loose stem at best, and you may even end up with a broken tenon or a cracked shank. With that said, there are pipes that are designed to have their stem removed while still hot. This sort of stem is called a &quot;military bit&quot; or an &quot;army mount,&quot; since pipes such as these were originally designed for military men (I'm not being non-PC; there simply weren't any military women in those days), who might have needed to stow their pipes on short notice. The stem's tenon on such a pipe is tapered to provide a friction fit, and the shank is almost always reinforced with a metal &quot;cup&quot; or band.<br />
<br />
See Also: [[Pipe care/cleaning]]<br />
<br />
=== &quot;Tongue bite&quot; ===<br />
&quot;Tongue bite,&quot; an intense burning sensation of the tongue, is an unpleasant side effect often experienced by the new pipe smoker (it is also experienced by non-newbies who take up the pipe again after a period of abstinence). While irritating, it will usually go away after a week or so of smoking. If you experience this problem for an extended period, then you may be smoking a tobacco that's too moist, you may have failed to pack the bowl properly, or you're smoking too fast. Some tongue bite sufferers have also experienced relief by using an oral rinse sold under the name &quot;Biotene.&quot; It works for some; you might want to try it. Others have suggested that red wine may also ease the sufferer's symptoms and many have reported their success with this method.<br />
<br />
=== &quot;Gurgling&quot; ===<br />
This is caused by moisture collecting in the bottom of the bowl and/or in the shank or stem. Possible causes of &quot;gurgle&quot; are:<br />
<br />
;The pipe has design problems<br />
:Some pipe designs or implementations tend to cause gurgling, or a wetter than average smoke. In most cases this is caused by an abrupt interruption of the airflow, which will cause condensation to form as the heated smoke is restricted and then expands. A smooth continuous air flow is ideal. Interruptions in this airflow can be caused by several different issues. Some smokers feel it is critical that the stem's tenon should meet the bottom of the mortise in the shank. Others do not feel this is critical. This fit is often neglected in factory-made pipes. Another cause might be the air hole in the stem and shank are not perfectly aligned, often found on bent pipes. If this is the case, a pipe cleaner might also catch abruptly at the junction of shank and stem. An interruption can also be caused if the air way is not carefully &quot;funneled&quot; between the rounder, larger-diameter hole at the tenon side of the stem and the flatter, wider slot and the bit. A more open draw facilitated by a larger air hole in the shank and stem is also considered an advantage by many smokers, and not by others. Regardless of the particulars, it seems clear that pipe mechanics play a part in the tendency for a particular smoker to experience problems with a particular pipe and tobacco combination.<br />
<br />
;Smoking too fast<br />
:Water vapor is a by-product of combustion, and rapid smoking will produce large amounts of it, which will then condense in the shank and stem.<br />
<br />
;Smoking a pipe that is not yet broken-in<br />
:I'm not certain if this occurs because the briar has not dried completely, because there is no cake, or &quot;just because.&quot; Still, a new pipe will often smoke wet.<br />
<br />
;Smoking a tobacco that is too moist<br />
:This is self explanatory. In addition, some tobaccos--particularly aromatics--tend to leave more liquid residue than others.<br />
<br />
;Smoking a tobacco with too much humectant<br />
:Some tobaccos contain large amounts of Propylene Glycol or other additives that may create grease and cause gurgling.<br />
<br />
;Saliva in the pipe<br />
:Salivation is a normal response to smoking, and this saliva can collect in the stem. Keep your tongue away from the mouthpiece opening, and try to keep your mouth as dry as possible.<br />
<br />
If your pipe begins to gurgle while smoking, run a pipe cleaner down the stem to absorb the moisture. This can be a bit tricky with some bent pipes, but it's usually possible if you put a small bend in the end of the cleaner and rotate it &quot;just right.&quot;</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Dunhill&diff=12000Dunhill2010-11-23T22:31:35Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://awibuky.co.cc Page Is Unavailable Due To Site Maintenance, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=<br />
'''Alfred Dunhill Pipes''' [http://www.whitespot.co.uk/flashindex.html Website]<br />
This is a work in progress. Please feel free to contribute if you are a Dunhill expert, or knowledgeable enthusiast. <br />
<br />
[[Image:DunhillD.jpg|thumb|400px|Two very early examples. The top piece is from 1918, and carries the #24 stamp (the size of the “Inner Tube,” not the shape). This pipe would later be referred to as the “O” in the catalogue. The bottom pipe is a 1925 PO shape in exquisite condition. From the G.L. Pease Collection [http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=The_Mystery_of_the_White_Spot_-_Pipes_from_Dunhill]]]<br />
<br />
== A Brief Timeline ==<br />
[[Image:Dun_012.jpg|thumb|left|Note the shield...]]<br />
[[Image:dunhill_duke_street.gif|thumb|right|1918 &quot;Inner Tube&quot; Pat. 5861/12 O, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
[[Image:1918_dunhill_in_box.gif|thumb|right|1919/1920 Shell: Pat. App. For over Pat. Mar. 9.15 Reg. No. 654638 Shape 4, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
[[Image:dunhill_1919_a.gif|thumb|left|1919 &quot;Inner Tube&quot; Pat. 5861/12 EW 7, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
[[Image:dunhill_cased_reading_pipe_.gif|thumb|right|1920 Dunhill Cased Reading Pipe, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
[[Image:1925_dunhill_in_box.gif|thumb|left|1925 Dunhill A &quot;Inner Tube&quot; over<br />
Pat. No. 5861/12 Shape 47, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
[[Image:dunhill_1922_cased_pair.gif|thumb|right|1922 Cased Pair of Dunhills. Shell 35/7. DR 4 with later silver cap.[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
[[Image:3comoy_case.gif|thumb|left|1930 Cased set of three Dunhill Shells[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]][[Image:DunhillC.jpg|thumb|left|OX shape,1960 Root, 1956 Tanshell, 1972 Redbark, 1957 Shell, G.L.Pease Collection[http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=The_Mystery_of_the_White_Spot_-_Pipes_from_Dunhill]]]<br />
[[Image:DunhillG.jpg|thumb|Lovats, 1940 Shell, 1931 Bruyere, G.L.Pease Collection[http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=The_Mystery_of_the_White_Spot_-_Pipes_from_Dunhill]]]<br />
'''1893''': At the age of 21 Alfred Dunhill inherited a harness business and soon saw that the age of the automobile was coming and converted his father’s factory from horse-drawn carriage accessories to motor accessories. “Dunhill Motorities” was born. <br />
<br />
'''1904''': Alfred Dunhill invented the “Windshield Pipe”.<br />
<br />
'''1906''': First Dunhill tobacco shop opened on 31a Duke St.<br />
<br />
'''1906-1910:''' Dunhill imported the bulk of his pipes from France. Unsatisfied with the quality even of the better ones he bought pipes from [[Charatan]] 1909/10 paying exorbitant prices to ensure he has some of the very best pipes for sale in England. <br />
<br />
'''1910''': Alfred Dunhill lured away Joel Sasieni from Charatan and opened a small pipe workshop of his own on 28 Duke St.-- two rooms upstairs for a humble beginning. The focus was to use the finest quality briar, and expert craftsmanship to make pipes that would provide a superior smoke, and last a lifetime. The cost would reflect these principals, which was against the current trend of inexpensive pipes of poor quality. <br />
<br />
'''1910''': The Bruyere finish is first introduced<br />
<br />
'''1915''': The famous white spot was introduced so customers would know which way to insert the handmade vulcanite mouthpieces on straight pipes (the spots face up).<br />
<br />
'''1916:''' New workshop opened on No. 186 Campden Hill Road.<br />
<br />
'''1917''': Alfred Dunhill invented the sandblasted pipe, and first introduced the &quot;Shell&quot; Finish. Dunhill also developed the oil curing process at this time, which many feel contributes significantly to Dunhill's excellent smoking qualities.<br />
<br />
'''1919:''' Dunhill and Sasieni part after serious conflicts.<br />
<br />
'''1920''': Dunhill stopped buying bowls turned in France in favor of those turned in London at the newly opened Dunhill bowl-turning facility.<br />
<br />
'''1921''': Alfred Dunhill open international stores in NYC and Paris. <br />
<br />
'''1924''': 260,000 pipes were sold in the Duke St. Shop.<br />
<br />
'''1928''': Alfred Dunhill retires<br />
<br />
'''1930''': The Root finish is introduced. D.R. &quot;dead root&quot;. Denotes Dunhill straight grain pipes. The bruyere finish was used on these pipes through 1929; root finish was used thereafter. &quot;D.R.&quot; stamped on shank.<br />
<br />
'''1946''': Dunhill buys Hardcastle after a ten year relationship<br />
<br />
'''1953''': The Tanshell finish is introduced<br />
<br />
'''1959''': Bill Taylor start working for Dunhill as a boy<br />
<br />
'''1967''': Hardcastle is merged with Parker and becomes Parker-Hardcastle, LTD<br />
<br />
'''1972''': The Redbark finish is introduced. ('''''Pipedia Sysop note:''''' Some sources indicate the Redbark was introduced in 1973 while other sources indicate the Redbark was introduced 1972 [http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Image:Dunhill72RB.jpg See example]).<br />
<br />
'''1977''': Bill Taylor works as administrator and overseer in the Dunhill Factory<br />
<br />
'''1980''': The Cumberland finish is introduced<br />
<br />
'''1984''': Bill Taylor leaves Dunhill to become Bill [[Ashton]]-Taylor<br />
<br />
'''1987''': Redbark finish officially retired<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
''Courtesy Smokingpipes.com[http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/dunhill/history.cfm], and used by permission''<br />
<br />
&quot;The challenge of a Dunhill history is to separate myth and legend from the history. This however, may be impossible. The story of Alfred Dunhill is so tied up with myth that the myths are now part of the history. Alfred Dunhill, being aware of this phenomenon, probably perpetuated many of such myths. Nonetheless, let us try and begin at the beginning in the early 1900’s.<br />
<br />
Alfred Dunhill inherited a harness business in 1893 at the age of 21. Alfred soon saw that the age of the automobile was coming and decided to convert his father’s factory from horse-drawn carriage accessories to motor accessories. “Dunhill Motorities” was soon born and Alfred was fast at work inventing and creating all possible accessories. In 1904 Alfred invented the “Windshield Pipe,” hoping to combat some of the difficulties a smoker would face while driving. It was this sort of innovation in response to the customer’s needs that would make Dunhill Pipes the leader in its field.<br />
<br />
In 1906, the first pipes and tobacco shop opened on Duke St. The shop soon came to be known for its customized blends. Each customer could come and create his own recipe, noted in a little book entitled “my mixture.” This is a prime example of Dunhill’s ability to tailor itself to the customer’s needs. Alfred Dunhill however, was unsatisfied with the current quality of available pipes. The pipes coming in from France were highly varnished and consequently clogged the pores of the briar. They were simply not doing justice to his creative blending.<br />
<br />
Alfred opened a small factory of his own in 1910. He set down two principles that would guide the production of Dunhill Pipes. First, pipes would be made of only the finest quality briar, with exacting care by expert craftsmen. Secondly, the pipes would be priced accordingly; the customer would recognize the value of a superior product. This ran counter to the current trend of inexpensive pipes of poor quality that one simply discarded after a short while.<br />
<br />
The Dunhill pipe was made to last a lifetime and always with an eye to utility. It must smoke well and continue to do so with age. To this end, Alfred invented the aluminum ‘inner tube’ to keep the innards of the pipe clean. When the pipe became dirty the tube could simply and easily be replaced. Note, of course, that this innovation predated the widespread use of pipe cleaners.<br />
<br />
In 1915, the famous white spot was introduced for very practical concerns. With straight pipes, customers had trouble knowing which way to insert the handmade vulcanite mouthpieces. So Alfred Dunhill ordered white spots to be placed on the upper side of the stem. This very practical solution would become a definitive trademark of Dunhill pipes. The “white spot” soon became known as a symbol of quality.<br />
<br />
Alfred Dunhill wanted his pipes to be known around the world. WWI provided him the perfect opportunity to promote his product on an international scale. When an order was placed by an officer serving in Northern France, Alfred would send additional pipes with a note asking that they be distributed among his fellow officers. The pipes were sold not only to British officers but to Americans, French, Belgians and Canadians. By the end of the war the Dunhill Pipe, with its “white spot”, was known the world over.<br />
<br />
Alfred Dunhill’s most revolutionary innovation was the Shell pipe in 1917. How this technique of sandblasting came about is somewhat of a mystery. The story often told is that Alfred Dunhill went down into his basement in the wintertime to make a couple pipes and accidentally left one, a half finished piece, by the heating boiler. He returned sometime next summer, having suddenly thought of the pipe, only to find some of the grain had ‘shrunk’, leaving a relief pattern. Obviously, this is apocryphal, probably resulting from the ‘shrunken’ look that sandblasts (especially the gnarly ones of that era) frequently have. Some say the name “Shell” came from the shriveled look the pipe took on after the sandblasting process. Alfred realized Algerian briar, then considered inferior, could be used in this new process. The softer wood could be ‘blasted away’, leaving behind only the harder briar and the beautiful natural pattern of the wood. Originally, the Shell pipes were not stamped because the sandblasting technique, not yet being refined, made recognizing the standard shape much more difficult. Though the Shell finish certainly did not arise from accidentally forgotten pipes in the cellar, it was definitely an important innovation on Dunhill’s part.<br />
<br />
Another new technique ended up ensuring the quality of Dunhill pipes. Before the sandblasting process, Dunhill would have the Algerian briarwood bowls immersed in olive oil for several weeks. Afterwards, they were left to dry, with the excess oil being occasionally wiped off. This method was originally developed for aesthetic reasons, but it turned out that the oil caused impurities to be forced out of the wood, resulting in a faster curing process. A further consequence of this process was the briar became incredibly durable, making the occurrence of burnouts much less frequent.<br />
<br />
Alfred Dunhill went on to open international stores in NYC in 1921 and a store in Paris followed shortly afterwards. The 1920’s and 30’s were successful years for Dunhill. By 1924, 260,000 pipes were sold a year through the Dunhill shop on Duke St. Just two decades old, Dunhill Limited was becoming famous for supplying the most elite clientele in the world. Dunhill developed ties with the royalty, supplying George VI with tobacco through the thirties. Later during WWII, the company kept Winston Churchill constantly supplied with the cigars that would become such an essential part of the famous British icon.<br />
<br />
The company expanded, offering specially designed pipes during the 1920’s that would be marked OD for ‘own design.’ This concern for marking and always having patent numbers on pipes is what allows for much of the dating process today. The stamping during the twenties was inconsistent and some of the early shell pieces lack marking altogether. In the 1930’s there was the desire to standardize. A shape chart was developed that used numbers and letters to signify a specific shape. Each new pipe would be stamped to identify its size and shape.<br />
<br />
World War II presented some problems for Dunhill. The Dunhill shop on Jermyn St. was destroyed during the Blitz and had to be relocated. The supply of briar became more tenuous. Italian briar was restricted by the Italian government to be used only by Italian carvers. The Algerian briar became more difficult to acquire. The war also left Europe in a shambles. Depressed financially, there was no place in Europe for high-end luxury goods. Consequently the American market grew and American taste determined the direction of Dunhill pipe making. Large pipes and traditional shapes were in demand and so Dunhill created a new line of pipes called the “800” OD series, recycling the old OD stamp....<br />
<br />
....Dunhill has always been creative in its designs and finishes. It is however, Dunhill’s principle of absolute quality achieved through unrelenting quality control that has set Dunhill apart from the rest. Dunhill pipes regardless of shape, size, and finish must always smoke well. This principle laid down in the early days of the company continues today. At the Dunhill factory, just outside of London, pipes are made by 15 full-time expert craftsmen who boast a cumulative work experience of 260 years. Knowing a high quality product must begin with the best possible material, the briar used by Dunhill is from carefully selected burls from bushes a hundred years old. Even with selecting only the highest quality briar with the finest grain, once the briar bowls begin to be carved certain flaws are exposed and many bowls have to be discarded. At every stage of the process there are a mandatory quality checks that ensure a Dunhill pipe will smoke well from the first to last bowl of tobacco, regardless of age. Each step in the six-week process is done by hand. Over 90 different steps are required in a process that has changed very little since the days of Alfred Dunhill almost a century ago.<br />
<br />
Dunhill Pipes are now prized collector pieces and the most famous pipes in the world. Alfred envisioned the Dunhill Pipe to be something special, a pipe to be coveted for its quality, sophistication and refinement. Alfred Dunhill’s vision continues today. To Smoke a Dunhill is to experience this tradition, a tradition of excellence that is perhaps the greatest in the world of pipes.&quot; <br />
<br />
''Courtesy Smokingpipes.com[http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/dunhill/history.cfm], and used by permission''<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
== Finishes ==<br />
&quot;Before the 1950s, there were three possible finishes for Dunhill pipes. The Bruyere was a smooth finish with a deep red stain, obtained through two coats, a brown understain followed by a deep red. The Shell finish was the original sandblast with a near-black stain (though the degree to which it is truly black has varied over the years). Lastly, the Root finish was smooth also but with a light brown finish. Early Dunhill used different briars with different stains, resulting in more distinct and identifiable creations.... Over the years, to these traditional styles were added four new finishes: Cumberland, Dress, Chestnut and Amber Root, plus some now defunct finishes, such as County, Russet and Red Bark.&quot;[http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/dunhill/history.cfm]<br />
<br />
==== Bruyere ====<br />
[[Image:dunhill_duke_street.jpg|thumb|left|1918 Bruyere, &quot;Inner Tube&quot; Pat. 5861/12 O, from the Derek Green Collection]][[Image:bruyere.jpg|thumb|Dunhill, 1950 Bruyere, [http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/england/index.cfm smokingpipes.com]]]The orignal finish produced, and a big part of developing and marketing the brand. It was the only finish from 1910 until 1917. A dark redish brown stain. Bruyere pipes were usually made using Calabrian briar, a very dense and hardy briar that has a mediocre grain but does very well with the deep red stain.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Shell ====<br />
[[Image:DunhillI.jpg|thumb|A 1937 Shell LB, G.L. Pease collection[http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=The_Mystery_of_the_White_Spot_-_Pipes_from_Dunhill]]]A deep craggy sandblast with a black stain finish. Duhill pantended the sandblast finish in 1917 (Patent No. 1484/17). See [[The Art of Sandblasting]], and by R.D. Field, for in depth look at Dunhill's revolutionary new finish. The deepest and craggiest finishes were from Algerian briar, which is softer and yields more to the blasting. These are found in circa 1920's, 1940's, and 1960's Shells. The pipes were double blasted until the 1960's, and then the double blast technique resumed in the 1980's calling it the &quot;Deep Shell&quot; finish. During the 1960’s and 70’s Dunhill could not acquire the Algerian briar. Consequently, the company’s sandblast pipes were much shallower and less distinct. Once again Dunhill showed itself to be innovative, inventing the “double blast” technique to bring about a deeper blast even with harder briar.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Ring Grain (RG) ====<br />
[[Image:ringgrain.jpg|thumb|Dunhill, Ring Grain ODA, [http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/england/index.cfm smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1996, the &quot;Ring Grain&quot; (RG) was created by blasting a straight grain bowl. In 1990 the name was changed to the &quot;Shilling Grain&quot;. It is an interesting variation on the original sandblasts which were mostly cross-grain sandblasts. The straighter grain plays a much more prominent role, giving the pipe a very distinct look and feel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Root Briar ====<br />
[[Image:DunhillA.jpg|thumb|1940, Shape #48 saddle bulldog in Root finish, G.L. Pease collection[http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=The_Mystery_of_the_White_Spot_-_Pipes_from_Dunhill]]]. Intorduced in 1931 and highly prized because the grain is more pronounced in this finish. The Root Briar finish required a perfectly clean bowl with excellent graining. Therefore, it is the most expensive of the Dunhill pipes. Corsican briar was most often used for the Root finish, since it was generally more finely grained. This is a rare finish, due to the scarcity of briar suitable to achieve it. These pipes are normally only available at Company stores, or Principle Pipe Dealers.<br />
<br />
Straight grained pipes were formerly graded A through H, but are now graded with one to six stars, with the letters G and H still used for the very finest pieces.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Tanshell ====<br />
[[Image:tanshell2.jpg|thumb|left|Tanshell LBS, [http://www.smokershaven.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&amp;txtSearch=dunhill&amp;btnSearch=GO&amp;Page=1 Smokershaven.com]]][[Image:tanshell.jpg|thumb|Dunhill Tanshell, [http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/england/index.cfm smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1952. The Tanshell is a light tan sandblast. Sardinian briar was used for this sandblast. There is a distinct contrast in the sandblasts using Sardinian as opposed to Algerian briar. The Sardinian is much denser and much harder. The resulting pattern, when blasted, is far more even and regular both in terms of the surface texture and the finish.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Redbark ====<br />
[[Image:redbark2.jpg|thumb|left|1970's Red Bark ODA, [http://www.smokershaven.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&amp;txtSearch=dunhill&amp;btnSearch=GO&amp;Page=1 Smokershaven.com]]] [[Image:redbark.jpg|thumb|Dunhill Redbark ODA, [http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/england/index.cfm smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1972, the Redbark is a reddish stained sandblast, and is the most famous of Dunhill’s retired finishes. Originally, the stain was a medium red. A couple years later the stain was changed to a brighter red, almost pinkish in color. The almost pink color caused pipe sales to plummet. In 1976, the stain was changed back to the original darker medium red finish. The Redbark finish was officially retired in 1987. The County and Russet finishes have also been retired. <br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Dress ==== <br />
[[Image:dress.jpg|thumb|New Dress Black Bulldog, [http://smokingpipes.com Smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1973, the Dress is a black smooth finish designed to look elegant with a tux or other formal ware--refined and sophisticated. A smooth jet-black stain with black bit gives this line of pipes the distinctive elegance that has come to be associated with the Dunhill name.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Cumberland ====<br />
[[Image:cumberland.jpg|thumb|New Cumberland, [http://smokingpipes.com Smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1979. Cumberland is another sandblast with a brown stain and a brindle stem (the material is more commonly called ‘cumberland’ these days, thanks to Dunhill’s influence and the success of the finish over the past quarter-century). Originally, the Cumberland always featured a smooth brown rim, but in the current production the rim is sometimes smooth, sometimes sandblasted. Occasionally, a straight grain blast is finished with a Cumberland stain and a “Shilling Grain,” similar to the “Ring Grain,” resulting in a new variation on the traditional sandblast. The Shilling series is named for the British coin: the sandblast looks like a stack of shillings. Named after the warehouse on Cumberland Road. The old pipes that inspired this finish were found there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Chestnut ====<br />
[[Image:chestnut.jpg|thumb|New Chestnut, [http://smokingpipes.com Smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1983 to commemorate the closing of the Cumberland Road warehouse. The same stain and stem material as used on the Cumberland, but on a smooth bowl.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== County ====<br />
[[Image:county.jpg|thumb|Dunhill County, [http://smokingpipes.com Smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1986. A tan sandblast with a Cumberland mouthpiece. It has since been discontinued. <br />
<br />
A limited reissue of 150 pieces was made available in 2006.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Russet ====<br />
Introduced in December of 1988. A medium reddish brown stain and smooth finish that has since been retired.<br />
<br />
==== Amber Root ====<br />
[[Image:amberroot.jpg|thumb|New Amber Root, [http://www.smokingpipes.com/ smokingpipes.com]]]Introduced in 1995. A warm yellow orange stain, reminicent of the original Root Briar finish. Cumberland stems were used, although recently, Amber Root pipes have appeared with black stems. This is also a limited production pipe that is found in mainly Company stores and Principle Pipe Dealers. <br />
<br />
Straight grained pipes are made available in this finish under the name Amberflame, and are graded from one to three flames.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
[[Image:dunhill_smokers.gif|thumb|left|400px|A selection of &quot;Smokers&quot;, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
<br />
'''A selection of &quot;Smokers&quot; (pictured left)'''<br />
<br />
Top Row<br />
1998 Amber Root 4<br />
1993 Shell 5108<br />
1984 Cumberland 3103<br />
1972 Bruyere 57<br />
Date Obscured. Shell Pat. Weak<br />
Bottom Row<br />
1979 Red Bark 31031<br />
1999 Shell 4103<br />
1958 ES Tanshell<br />
No Date ES Shell Pat.No.1341418/20<br />
Date Obscured Bruyere EC 4A<br />
1957 Root 713<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
[[Image:dunhill_smokers_2.gif|thumb|right|400px| &quot;More Smokers&quot;, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
'''More &quot;Smokers&quot; (pictured right)'''<br />
<br />
Top Row<br />
1963 Root 40<br />
1937 Root Pat.1343253/20 472<br />
1971 Bruyere EO 4A<br />
1988 Russet 5112 <br />
Middle Row<br />
1990 Tanshell 4103<br />
1992 Shell 5124<br />
1956 Shell 252<br />
1964 Shell 6 LBS<br />
1979 Cumberland 41022<br />
1988 Russet 4114<br />
Bottom Left<br />
Date? Root 48 4A<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
[[Image:dunhill_smokers_3.gif|thumb|left|400px| &quot;More Smokers&quot;, Derek Green Collection[http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm]]]<br />
1990 Shell 5601 Church Warden<br />
1964 Shell 519 Feather Bone<br />
1935 Shell Feather Bone<br />
1986 4107 Dress<br />
1967 Shell Cavalier on left<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
== Dunhill Articles ==<br />
<br />
=== A Tail of Two Briars ===<br />
Abstract: R.D. Fields writes, &quot;As a pipe collector, a pipe hobbyist, and as a Dunhill principal pipe dealer, I hear comments over and over again about the comparative merits of the older pipes versus the newer models. Most discussion centers on the quality of the briar and the sweetness of the smoke. I hear comments such as &quot;I love my old Dunhill pipes, but these new ones ... I don't know.&quot;<br />
<br />
People I consider to be very knowledgeable on the subject of 20th Century briar swear that, by far, the sweetest smoke comes from those Dunhill pipes bearing a patent number (pre-1955); they will not even smoke those made after 1968, believed to be of substandard quality.<br />
<br />
The used pipe trade has followed the same trend - patent number Dunhills are commanding a higher price than those made from 1955-1968, and a still higher price than those made after 1968.<br />
<br />
Due to the mystique surrounding the older Dunhill pipe, there is, indeed, a need to explore any factual basis behind the &quot;myth&quot;. This, reader, is the purpose of this article.&quot; Read [[A Tail of Two Briars]], by R.D. Fields<br />
<br />
=== John C. Loring Articles ===<br />
John Loring, now a &quot;broken pipe&quot; was a leading authority on Dunhill pipes. His excellent book, &quot;The Dunhill Briar Pipe - the patent years and after&quot; [http://www.loringpage.com/attpipes/book.html], is an essential addition to any Dunhill collectors library. Mr. Loring also wrote several important articles, which he has graciously contributed to Pipedia, and will be added here:<br />
<br />
'''Dunhill's guarantee''' is generally credited as the impetus for implementing the date codes, as well as establishing its reputation. Dunhill expert, John C. Loring has written an excellent article on the establishment and refinement of the [[THE DUNHILL WHITE SPOT GUARANTEE]].<br />
<br />
[[Musing On Bits]]: &quot;Dunhill’s ‘push’ bit while not invented by Dunhill may well have been an important reason for its early success.&quot;<br />
<br />
'''''More excellent Loring articles coming soon!''''' For now they are still available on the author's [http://loringpage.com/pipearticles/pipearticles.htm website].<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
'''Some Dunhill &quot;gimmicks&quot;'''<br />
&lt;gallery&gt;<br />
Image:Dun_kPdW.jpg|The World's smallest smokeable pipe<br />
Image:Dun_kPdW2.jpg|... a Bent-Rhodesian!<br />
Image:Dun_Space.jpg|Space Shuttle<br />
Image:Dun_Dom.jpg|Cologne Cathedral<br />
&lt;/gallery&gt;<br />
<br />
'''Old Dunhill Tobacco Brochure''', courtesy of John A. Gioannetti<br />
&lt;gallery&gt;<br />
Image:Dunhill_Tobacco_Brochure1.jpg|<br />
Image:Dunhill_Tobacco_Brochure2.jpg|<br />
Image:Dunhill_Tobacco_Brochure3.jpg|<br />
Image:Dunhill_Tobacco_Brochure4.jpg|<br />
&lt;/gallery&gt;<br />
<br />
The Bent-Rhodesian in Root finish was made in 1984 and of course it shows the white dot on the Vulcanite stem. It's 7 millimeters (!) long und weighs 0.005 Gramm (!) but theoretically it is absolutely functional. On display in Dunhill's London showroom. - Space Shuttle was inspired by the space shuttles riding atop a Boing 747 enroute back to Florida from Edwards air base. - Cologne Cathedral was a special order made for Cologne pipe-trader [http://www.pfeife.de/ Peter Heinrichs] in 2005. It is a rare Dunhill Freehand Straight Grain 4 stars pipe in oversize (XL). The lid is worked – like the Cologne cathedral itself – out of 925 sterling silver. The smoke can escape through several holes in the lid as well as through the head portal of the cathedral. The pipe is therefore fully operable, but will hardly ever be smoked. The pipe (value: Euro 10,000) was blessed by the Cologne Cardinal Meißner (!!!) and received a display place in the Cologne City Museum.<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
== Dunhill Collections ==<br />
'''G.L. Pease''' has a nice collection of Dunhills: [[The Mystery of the White Spot - Pipes from Dunhill]] (on Pipedia). On Greg's [http://glpease.com/Pipes/Collection/dunhill.html Website]<br />
<br />
'''John C. Loring''' has perhaps the most complete collection of Dunhills in the US, which is expertly categorized, dated, and notated: [http://www.loringpage.com/pipecollection/pipecollection.htm The John C. Loring Collection]<br />
<br />
'''Derek Green''' has a nice collection, many of which appear in this article: [http://www.derek-green.com/Dunhill.htm The Derek Green Collection].<br />
<br />
'''Richard Block''' has a fine collection, including many rare pieces, which may be viewed at: http://web.mac.com/richard_block/iWeb/Site%203/Das%20Wunderkammer.html<br />
<br />
''If you know of good Duhill collections on the web, please add links to them here.''<br />
<br />
== A Dunhill Pipe Dating Guide ==<br />
Dunhill is the only factory made pipe that can be accurately dated. This contributes to it's popularity with collectors, but it can be difficult to accurately date any given pipe. We have imported R.D. Fields [[A Dunhill Pipe Dating Guide]] to Pipedia, by permission of the author.''' This guide is very helpful, but there are discrepancies in both the literature regarding the nomenclature, and anomalies in the nomenclature itself. We highly recommend the book by Dunhill expert, John C. Loring called, &quot;The Dunhill Briar Pipe - 'the patent years and after''''. It is available from the [http://www.loringpage.com/attpipes/book.html author]. Loring also publishes corrections and additions on his website, which are extremely helpful.<br />
----<br />
<br />
<br />
== Contact information: ==<br />
<br />
'''Alfred Dunhill Manufacturing Limited''', 32 St Andrews Road, London E17 6BQ; Telephone: +44 (0)20 8498 4000; <br />
Fax: +44 (020) 8498 4077; Email: mailto:adpl@dunhill.com<br />
<br />
Official site: http://www.whitespot.co.uk/<br />
<br />
== Off site links ==<br />
*[[Image:logoplm.gif]] '''[http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/index.html Dunhill markings] ''': Stampings pics from 1918 to now.<br />
*[[Image:logoplm.gif]] '''[http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/cledat-en1.html Dunhill dating]''' Your pipe in one hand and the mouse in the other<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category: Pipe makers by nationality]]<br />
[[Category: Great Britain]]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Using_Delrin_Tenons&diff=11999Using Delrin Tenons2010-11-23T22:31:31Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://yhenaju.co.cc Under Construction! Please Visit Reserve Page. Page Will Be Available Shortly]=<br />
==The Kurt Huhn Method==<br />
===Intro===<br />
The basis for this article originally appeared as a sticky on the Pipe Makers Forum, and written by [[Kurt Huhn]]:<br />
<br />
First, decide on your tenon diameter. Most folks will use 5/16&quot;, but 3/8&quot; and 1/4&quot; are not uncommon.<br />
<br />
Next, find a drill bit that's going to give you the right size hole for your delrin. As any machinist will tell you, 5/16&quot; is not 5/16&quot; from one drill bit or piece of stock to the next. In this case, you can count on the delrin being the same size, as these are manufactured to rather close tolerances. Like it or not, you're going to need to experiment on briar. other woods will not react the same as briar to drilling, and will not give you an accurate gauge of hole size. Scraps of briar are fine, as long as you can drill them using the same methods you intend to use when you make a pipe.<br />
<br />
Have a selection of drill bits handy. Use bits from different manufacturers, as one manufacturer may have different tolerances than another. The design of the drill bits may also play a part in making a hole that's final size is different from other bits. Drill with these bits using the same methods of pipe manufacturing - the methods you use will be important in determining final hole size.<br />
<br />
It's important to note that you MUST clear the wood chips frequently while drilling the mortis. If the wood chips build up, it will generate excess heat and pressure which will change the final hole size as those wood chips press against the sides of the mortis.<br />
<br />
Once you have a drill bit that you know will provide a consistent hole size, you're ready to start using it. Be aware, that the bit that provides the right hole size for briar, may be to small for drilling a hole in vulcanite or acrylic. You'll need to be sure of your drill bits before you start.<br />
<br />
===My procedure is as follows:===<br />
<br />
====Drill the briar:====<br />
* chuck the block in and line everything up along my construction lines for airway, mortis, and tobacco chamber. I drill the mortis/airway first.<br />
* set the spindle speed for 500RPM or less.<br />
* face the shank with a 1-1/4&quot; precision Forstner bit. I take care not to use to heavy or aggressive a hand in this step. You want to avoid grain tearout.<br />
* drill the mortis, about 3/4 of a turn of the tailstock at a time. This works out to about 1/12 or so of an inch for each advancement. After each advancement, I remove the bit completely from the hole, and clear all the dust and chips. The depth is roughly 1/2&quot; inch when the mortis is completely drilled (at this point I continue on with the airway and tobacco chamber, that's not covered here.)<br />
<br />
====Drill the stem:====<br />
* I chuck the rod stock and face with a 1-1/4&quot; precision Forstner bit<br />
* I drill the stock somewhat more aggressively than the briar. Vulcanite, Cumberland, and acrylic are more stable than briar under heat and pressure while drilling. Don't go too nuts here, because you can burn the mortis in the stem if you use too much pressure or speed.<br />
* total hole depth in the stem material is about 1/4&quot; to 1/2&quot; depending on stem shape.<br />
* I also use a bit that gives me a flat bottom in the stem mortis. This way the amount of epoxy in contact with the smoke is minimal, and the opportunity for a void at the end of the delrin is minimal.<br />
* continue to drill the airway in the stem<br />
<br />
====Drill the airway in the delrin:====<br />
* Slice off a length of delrin approximately the length I need. I usually go about an 1/8&quot; longer just to be sure I can bottom out the tenon in the mortis in the stummel.<br />
* I set the spindle speed to about 1200 RPM to drill delrin. Delrin is extremely stable under heat and pressure, and is self-lubricating. This also mitigates any risk you might have of using too much forward pressure and setting the drill bit off-course.<br />
* I do not face the delrin<br />
* I use a short drill bit, or a jobber drill bit with most of it's length swallowed up in the chuck. This helps prevent the bit from wandering.<br />
* after drilling, I use the tip of a skew chisel to cut 3 or 4 grooves in the delrin where it will be epoxied to the stem material. This is necessary, since delrin will not take adhesives very well.<br />
<br />
====Put the stem and delrin together:====<br />
* first, I take a triangle file and slightly deepen the grooves on at three points around the circumference. Do not depen the grooves all the way around. The goal is to get a slight triangle shape in the grooves so that the delrin will not rotate in the stem once the epoxy has cured. Just a couple swipes of the file in each groove at 120-degree intervals should be quite sufficient to hold it.<br />
* mix up some epoxy (5-minute, 15-minute, 24-hour, whatever) with a toothpick<br />
* use the toothpick to put a dollop of epoxy in the stem mortis<br />
* spread epoxy all over the outside of the delrin. Be sure to get epoxy in the grooves and get all the big air bubbles out.<br />
* insert the delrin tenon into the mortis. Epoxy will go everywhere, this is normal.<br />
* at this point you can either wipe up the excess epoxy with a rag or paper towel, or you can wait a couple minutes and just peel it off when it becomes rubbery. Be sure to get it all, otherwise your stem won't fit right.<br />
* after the epoxy has fully cured, you can remove the epoxy that got into the airway by carefully re-drilling the airway. I do this by hand, holding the stem and with a tapered drill bit turning on the lathe at 500RPM. BE CAREFUL!!<br />
* now you can sand or file off whatever excess delrin there is so that you get a nice tight stem/shank meeting.<br />
<br />
====Conclusion:====<br />
That's it in a nutshell. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes rather quickly for me as I tend to batch most of that by doing 3-4 stems at a time. Way less time than trying to hand turn tenons on a wood lathe. I also prefer the buttery feel of delrin as a tenon over vulcanite - but that's primarily a personal preference.<br />
<br />
==Revised Method w/Photos==<br />
===Intro===<br />
The following outlines a method used allowing the stem and Delrin to be drilled together after the two are assembled. As with any aspect of pipe making, there are many ways to achieve good results with Delrin. The following method is constantly evolving, but may prove helpful to some in developing their own. The pictures show insert material. For more information on using inserts see [[Stem Inserts]].<br />
<br />
===Preparing the stem===<br />
Note: If convenient, consider leaving the stem material in the lathe for the entire process (glue up and drilling). This prevents having to re-center it for drilling operations. Multiple sessions where the stem is in and out of the lathe can introduce problems, even with self-centering chucks. <br />
<br />
Prepare the stem material in the lathe by first roughing in the diameter of the stem rod by turning it down. Then face the end as you would normally. The following pics show that being done with a Forstner bit:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_forstner.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_facing.JPG]]<br />
<br />
===Drilling===<br />
The diameter of the Delrin used for the tenon will largely depend on the pipe's final stem and shank diameter. It is critical that your drills match the Delrin you're using, especially with regard to the fit of the tenon in the stummel mortise. Both drills and Delrin vary slightly, so some experimentation with speed, feed rate, and different drills, even of the same marked size will result it the best fit. Once you find a good drill, make sure you keep track of it. It may be advantageous to use a different drill for the stummel than the one used for the stem material.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drillingforDelrin.JPG]]<br />
<br />
===Preping the Delrin===<br />
Next measure and cut the section of Delrin to be used. Make sure you leave extra length to allow for trimming it to perfectly match the depth of the mortise. Here we are also gluing up insert material, so that is also accounted for in the length:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_measuring_delrin_blank.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Round the end of the Delrin to match the bottom of the hole drilled in the stem material. This will minimise any voids and pockets of epoxy:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_rounding_Delrin.JPG]]<br />
<br />
===Glue up===<br />
First dry fit everything to ensure your fit is good: <br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_dryfitting.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Roughing up the Delrin, and the hole in your stem material will greatly improve the bond between the two materials:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_roughing_hole.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_roughing_delrin.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_Delrin_ready.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Then mix up epoxy and coat both surfaces of both the hole of the stem and the end of the Delrin (as well as both surfaces of any insert material being used): <br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_epoxy.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_applying epoxy.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Use a thin even film of epoxy. Rotate and press all the materials against each other to release any air bubbles and squeeze out any extra epoxy: <br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_glueup.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_glueup2.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Carefully wipe away any squeeze out off of the tenon (the squeeze out around and insert materials can be easily trimmed when it's dry, but the tenon should stay as clean as possible). Then use the trimming tool in the cross carriage of the lathe to press the insert materials against the main stem and to each other and lock it into position. Use something chucked into the tail stock to press the Delrin firmly into the stem while the epoxy sets, and lock it into position. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_clamp.JPG]]<br />
<br />
These serve as excellent clamps. If possible, let all this sit overnight, or until well cured (5 minute epoxy will speed the set time in terms of clamping, but will still not be fully cured for some time. It is risky to drill and fit the stem assembly until it is fully cured). When ever possible, I leave the assembly in the lathe through the entire process. During cold or damp weather I leave the light down close over the assembly (as shown above) while the epoxy is curing.<br />
<br />
===Fitting to the stummel===<br />
Now that our epoxy is fully curred we can fit the Delrin tenon to the mortise. First bevel the tenon so it will not damage the mortise in the stummel, then check the stummel and measure how much to trim off the tenon:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_bevel delrin.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_checkstummel.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Next we transfer the measurement to the stummel and trim the Delrin:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_transfertrim.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_trim_delrin.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Next we bevel the tenon again, and recheck that we have it correctly fit to the mortise:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_beveldelrin2.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_check_fit.JPG]]<br />
<br />
===Drilling===<br />
With the tenon correctly fit we can proceed to drill. Using a center drill/countersink first will ensure a nicely centered and secure start to the drilling operation, as well as providing a nice counter sunk draft hole:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrill.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrilling.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Next we measure for the depth of the first drilling. Shown is a 5/32&quot; tapered drill, which does an excellent job of drilling. 5/32&quot; tapered also provides an open draw while tapering down to a smaller hole. Stop about 1/2&quot; to 3/4&quot; short of the end and then follow with a 1/16&quot; drill on through the stem. This last section will eventually flatten out and be funneled wider at the bit end of the stem to provide for a continuous airflow, and yet facilitate a thin comfortable bit:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drilldepth.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling.JPG]] <br />
<br />
The drilling is done very slowly in terms of speed and feed rates, and the drill removed often to cool and clear chips. The drill should not be too hot to touch:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling2.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling3.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Next we change to the 1/16&quot; drill, and drill completely through the stem. Again, this must be done very slowly and the drill removed to clear chips:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling4.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling5.JPG]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling6.JPG]] <br />
<br />
===Cleaning up===<br />
The draft hole can be sanded up though most of it's length by wrapping sandpaper around the 1/16&quot; drill bit. The final 3/4&quot; or so cannot be reached, but it will be carefully opened, filed, sanded, and buffed later. Steel wool does a nice job cleaning up the tenon end after the sanding.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafsanding.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafstellwool.JPG]]<br />
<br />
===Finish===<br />
Here we see the tenon finished, and then the final check with the stummel:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_finished.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_finalcheck.JPG]]<br />
<br />
And now the fun really begins!</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Eells&diff=11994Eells2010-11-23T22:29:59Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://olitudyxej.co.cc Page Is Unavailable Due To Site Maintenance, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=<br />
John Eells is cited as an early mentor in the vast majority of American pipe maker bios. His pipes are excellent, and his passion and dedication to pipe making have served as the inspiration for the many amazing pipe makers he has helped to train and inspire!<br />
<br />
''The following article originally appeared in the Profiles of American Pipes Makers series in the Februray 2004 issue of The Pipe Collector, the official newsletter of the American Society of Pipe Collectors [http://naspc.org (NASPC)], and is used by permission. It's a great organization--consider joining.'' <br />
<br />
[[Image:Eells.jpg|thumb|400px|A group from John's old website, click to enlarge]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Profiles of American Pipe Makers: John H. Eells ==<br />
[[Image:NASPCpipe2008.jpg|thumb|300px|[http://pipeshowonline.com/NASPC.aspx NASPC 2008 Pipe Of the Year]]]<br />
[[Image:Eells1.JPG|thumb|300px|Courtesy Mike Hagley]][[Image:Eells2.JPG|thumb|300px|Courtesy Mike Hagley]][[Image:Eells3.JPG|thumb|300px|Courtesy Mike Hagley]][[Image:Eells4.JPG|thumb|300px|Courtesy Mike Hagley]][[Image:Eells5.JPG|thumb|300px|Courtesy Mike Hagley]][[Image:Eells6.JPG|thumb|300px|Courtesy Mike Hagley]][[Image:Eells7.JPG|thumb|300px|Courtesy Mike Hagley]]John Eells' childhood home was Walton, NY, a small town in Delaware County. When John was a young boy in the 40s and 50s, most of his adult relatives were pipe smokers. His father, a tool and die maker by trade, had a nice collection that included a couple of Barlings and a few very fine Patent Dunhills. His grandfathers, a great uncle, and an uncle also enjoyed pipe smoking. On the street and in local factories, John often saw men with pipes dangling from their lips. Many respected actors, singers, and public figures of that period smoked a pipe. So it is understandable how, during these impressionable years, John came to believe that the gentile art of pipe smoking distinguished a man of high intellect and respectability.<br />
<br />
From very early on, John had a strong fascination with mechanical devices. Working with his hands, and tinkering with anything mechanical was almost an obsession. Anything that was broken or didn't work was taken apart if John could get his hands on it. Eventually he was able to analyze what was wrong and to make simple repairs. By the are of 12, he was capable of disassembling, cleaning and reassembling watches as well as making minor repairs. During this time, he developed his patience and the rudiments of his hand dexterity.<br />
<br />
In 1958, John's family relocated to Charlottesville, VA. At age 16, John found part-time work after school, on weekends, and during the summers repairing watches at a local jewelry store. He continued with his watch repairs while studying at UVA from 1961 to 1963 before entering military service. <br />
<br />
During those fist few years in Charlottesville, John discovered Mincer's Pipe Shop on &quot;The Corner&quot; across from the UVA Campus. While attending UVA, he was fortunate to enjoy an occasional pleasant and informative conversation with Robert Mincer, found and proprietor of the shop. Mincer was a master pipe maker and, although it is not commonly know, he was also the brother ot Tracy Mincer, founder of [[Custom-Bilt]] pipes. Robert was a key player in the Custom-Bilt story in the years before the name was sold to Rogers. In the mid 1940s, Robert Mincer moved to Charlottesville and opened his own shop. In 1961, at age 18, John purchased his first good-quality pipe from Mincer--a small full-bent Comoy Tradition that Mincer personally chose for him. Thus began a pipe-smoking hobby that has been &quot;a lifelong source of enjoyment&quot; for John.<br />
<br />
After two years in college, John took a leave of absence from school and enlisted in the Army of three years. &quot;Yes, I took my pipes.&quot; After completing his tour of duty in October, 1966, John returned to Charlottesville and worked a couple of years in the Engineering Dept. of Sperry Marine Systems as an engineering assistant while he attended classes at UVA on a part-time basis. In the experimental shop at Sperry, he picked up some of his machinist's skills. In 1968, John decided to return to UVA and complete the requirements for a S.S.M.E. degree. Continuing to work full-time at Sperry was impractical, and, since Robert Mincer's shop was practically on campus, John approached him for a part-time job clerking in the shop. Mincer was well known for lending a helping hand to students in need of work. Jon says that Mincer, who no longer involved himself in the repair end of the business, asked if John would like to try his hand at pipe repairing, and of course, the answer was yes. After checking John out for an hour or so, Mincer offered him the job. John elates that Mincer actually trusted him with a key to the shop so that he could work whenever he was free, day or night. All he had to do was stay caught up with the work. <br />
<br />
During the next several years, under Mincer's careful guidance, John acquired experience repairing and carving pipes. John also began to establish a modest collection of pipes because, as well as offering a store discount, Mincer allowed him to purchase any unclaimed pipes for the repair cost. Many opportunities to acquire fine pipes occurred because, whenever someone left his pipe for repair and left school or otherwise failed to pick it up, John had first right of refusal to purchase it for the repair cost. John points out that this system showed the wisdom and business sense of the old master, who subtly incorporated an effective quality control incentive. &quot; You are going to take good care of something that could be yours someday.&quot; So now pipe making, repairing and collecting were added to John's pipe-smoking hobby.<br />
<br />
In 1972, after graduating, John went to work for Phillip Morris in Richmond, VA., where he was fortunate to learn a good deal about pipe tobaccos from the master blenders at the 17th and Dock Street location. At that time, Phillip Morris was one of the nation's largest pipe tobacco manufacturers. Not only did PM manufacture their own labels and ship bulk tobaccos to tobacconists all over the country, but it also blended and packaged for many other companies, Dunhill included. At Phillp Morris, John was able to continue developing shop skills because most of his career was spent working closely with maintenance personnel. He had the good fortune to have access to the machine shops and permission to sue the equipment. John was even lucky enough to supervise the machine shope at one location for several years.<br />
<br />
During the 26 years John worked for Phillip Morris, he continued to pursue those activities that could be defined more accurately as hobbies, except that they provided additional income.. At one point, he owned a gift/card shop that provided watch and clock repair services. During the same period, he was repairing watches for three retail jewelers and five pawnbrokers. At times, when John's schedule wasn't so intense, he found time for building his pipe collection, refurbishing pipes, and even making a few pipes.<br />
<br />
Over the past 30 years in Richmond, John's interest in making pipes has grown. He freely admits that he probably would not have continued working in the craft if it hadn't been for the support and encouragement of many pipe-loving friends and associates and the establishment of the internationally recognized Conclave of Richmond Pipe Smokers. John believes that the lion's hare of credit goes to Linwood Hines. &quot;The C.O.R.P.S. was Linwood's dream first. He was the catalyst that brought us all together in the beginning. The establishment of the anual C.O.R.P.S. Pipe Expo has led to friendships with pipe collectors and carvers. Over the years, many other pipe clubs have formed, some of which are also sponsoring events. Attending these events has further increased the number of great pipe enthusiasts on my list of cherished friends. Thanks, Linwood.&quot;<br />
<br />
Since the Mincer years, John has continued making and restoring pipes. Now retired, he is endeavoring to spend even more time making hem. According to John, &quot;My pipes are typically made in the Standard English shapes; however, I do invite custom work. A lot of my pipes are larger than the norm, but I also make smaller sizes, including pipes for the ladies.&quot; All of John's pipes, including moutpieces, are constructed of the highest quality materials and are entirely (every inch) hand made. <br />
<br />
=== Nomenclature ===<br />
John uses a combination of stamping and machine engraving on his pipes. On his first-quality pipes, the John H. Eells line, &quot;EELLS U.S.A.&quot; and &quot;JH Eells&quot; (a script signature) are stamped on the shanks of the pipes. Engraved on the shanks with a Hermes pantographic engraver are the size, date, and shape information that I discuss below. On the stems of these pipes, John engraves his &quot;J H Eells&quot; signature and fills it in with white enamel. Because the signature is actually engraved into the stem approximately 1/32 of an inch, using a cutter that tapers to a point, it will not &quot;pop out&quot;, as occasionally happens with stems that are stamped with a heated die. For this reason, subsequent buffing will make the signature become sharper. On John's Poplar Ridge line (which is described later), John engraves &quot;Poplar Ridge&quot; and stamps his &quot;JH Eells&quot; signature into the shank. On the stem, he engraves the letters &quot;PRSP&quot; (which stand for Poplar Ridge Smoking Pipes), using he same process as on his regular John H. Eells line. The Poplar Ridges line includes no shape, date, or size information, nor does it include the &quot;EELLS&quot; U.S.A. stamp. John also stamps his first-line pipes with a number, followed by a space, followed by three letters, followed by a spcae, followed by another letter and an optional asterisk, such as &quot;2 DCU H*.&quot;<br />
<br />
The number indicates the size of the pipe and signifies nothing abut grade. John's group 1 pipes can range up to about a group3 size of other makers. His group 2 pipes range from a group 4 to a group 6 of other makers. A group 3 starts at group 6 size and ranges up to a group 4 to a group 6 of other makers. A group 3 starts at group 6 and ranges up to a larger than ODA but still smaller than a magnum. A group 4runs in the range starting a bit smaller than a Magnum. The larges pipe John has made thus far is a group 14, which was over a foot long and had a bowl over 4 inches tall.<br />
<br />
The first letter stand for the year, starting in 1998 with &quot;A,&quot; so &quot;F&quot; would 2003.<br />
<br />
The next two letters designate the pipe and stem shapes. &quot;CU&quot; indicates a standard billiard with a tapered stem. At this time, John has over 80 shapes, and the number is growing constantly.<br />
<br />
The final letter indicates the pipe's finish. &quot;H&quot; designates a black sandblast with red highlights similar to the older Dunhill Shells. he letters John uses to indicate his finishes will also appear on his web site when it is finished. <br />
<br />
On some Eells' pipes, there is an asterisk (*) or other symbol following the finish code. This symble indicates that the pipe was originally fitted with a stem made of material different than black vulcanite. Typically, all standard Eells' pipes come with a black vulcanite stem. Therefore, there is no additional designation following the finish code on these standard pipes having black vulcanite stems. If you should come across a pipe with stampings not consistent with the finish or stem material, then the pipe has been modified in some way from the original. An example would be a pipe with a Cumberland or Brindle stem having no stem designation. his would man that the pipe originally had a black vulcanite stem but that the stem has been replaced with the different material.<br />
<br />
=== Philosophy ===<br />
John's pipe-making philosophy is pretty. 1) Use the finest materials available. 2) Eahcn pipe must be designed to function properly. 3) A pipe should be pleasing to the eye and touch. 4) Never rush the process.<br />
<br />
=== Materials ===<br />
Substandard materials are unlikely to yield a quality pipe, so John uses the finest briar available. This doesn't guarantee a flawless grain or a sweet smoke, but it improves the odds. &quot;With occasional exceptions, we generally get what we pay for,&quot; John believes. Stems can be made from many different materials, but John's focus is that it be tough, lightweight, attractive, and not give off any dangerous or unpleasant fumes when heated. However, as John says, &quot;I am somewhat old-fashioned and traditional and prefer the look and feel of vulcanite.&quot;<br />
<br />
=== Making The Pipe Work ===<br />
According to John, a pipe must be designed and constructed to function properly. It should provide a dry, comfortable, unencumbered smoke. The draft hole must allow for an easy draw, and it should meet the tobacco chamber correctly at the bottom. The tobacco chamber should not be too large or too small, and it should be designed so that it will be right when a cake of 1/16 to 1/8 inches has built up on the wall. The feel of the mouthpiece should be comfortable and adequate for the pipe's size and weight. The bowl should be thick enough that it won't be a candidate for overheating and burnout or distortion and cracking due to exposure to combined heat and moisture. &quot;Pay attention to those little details that may not seem too important,&quot; John says, &quot;because they really are. Getting the plumbing right is very important. It doesn't matter how beautiful a pipe is if it burns out or cracks or if your customer gets a hernia trying to puff on it. Remember that a draft hole that hits the tobacco chamber 1/8&quot; off to one side or 1/4&quot; too high can cause big problems in the future.&quot;<br />
<br />
=== Aesthetics ===<br />
According to John, once a pipe maker is able to successfully accomplish the tasks critical to the proper function of a pipe, he or she should focus on incorporating them by constructing the pipe's exterior so that it will be pleasing to the eye and touch. Study the wood and decide what shape to make, carefully considering the orientation of the grain and where to locate the tobacco chamber and draft hole. &quot;It's the process of combining the engineering with the art.&quot; Because there are so many beautiful freehand pipes and innovative shapes appearing every day, it is difficult to know what shape or style will be pleasing to one person and not to another. However, according to John, &quot;It is a fact that bad quality is never esthetically pleasing and can be maddening for the customer who discovers it after laying down a sizable chunk of change.&quot;<br />
<br />
Many features will reveal quality workmanship or the lack thereof. Examples include the following. If the bowl is round, the tobacco hole should be concentric with the outside of the bowl. If the bowl is intentionally irregular, then the tobacco chamber should be located such that there aren't any spots where the wall is too thin. The mortise should be in the center of the shank so that there are no weak or thin areas that might crack or split under the pressure of a tightly-fitted tenon. On pipes with round or symmetrical shanks, such as oval, diamond, or square, one should be able to rotate or &quot;flip&quot; the stem 180 degrees with little evidence of misalignment. This is a clear measure of the degree of care the pipe maker used in this critical area. (Obviously, sandblasts can be off a little bit, but usually a person can tell if the pipe was correct before blasting.) The outside finish of a smooth pipe should not be irregular, with little humps or flattened-out areas. If there are flaws in the work such that trying to work around them would cause the surface to become irregular, perhaps the pipe should be rusticated or blasted. If the pipe design is symmetrical, then the pipe should be so. If the pipe's finish is smooth or textured in some way, it should still show quality and careful workmanship in the finishing process. Be aware that your customers are going to live with the pipe you made for years, John emphasizes. &quot;Eventually they will look at every little detail. Make sure that, in the years of close scrutiny, nothing will disappoint them.&quot;<br />
<br />
John says it would be easy to go on and on with more examples of what to look for in a quality hand-made pipe, but he'll stop here with some general advice for pipe smokers. &quot;Educate yourselves very carefully. Learn what is good and what is bad because it isn't necessarily true that a beautiful pipe will yield a great smoke and not have hidden flaws. Always remember that poor quality can be hidden or disguised.&quot; John says that he really wants to emphasize this point: &quot;Don't be fooled by a great-looking pipe without very careful examination because there are people out there who are very talented at disguising/hiding imperfections. And they are selling those pipes at very high prices.&quot;<br />
<br />
=== Don't Hurry The Process ===<br />
John believes that the amount of time you spend making an individual pipe shouldn't enter into your thinking. It should not be in an artist's nature to rush the process. &quot;If we hurry, we lose focus on quality. This can lead to cutting corners and producing substandard products. In the end, our reputation will suffer, and our work will not be in demand.&quot;<br />
<br />
Many people have asked John how long it takes him to make a pipe. He is retired now and out of the rat race, where success is based on how many units are produced per hour and what the production cost per unit is. In his present situation, time doesn't really matter that much. What does matter is that each pipe he makes is the best it can be and that no act on his part should limit its potential. &quot;If it takes a little longer to get it there, it just means a few more pleasant hours of relaxation in the shop.&quot; It does matter that each pipe is fairly priced based on its own merit and that whoever purchases it is confident that they got good value for their money. It matters that each pipe finds its way into the hands of someone to whom it will bring as much pleasure smoking it as John had making it. It matters that it will be more than just a tool to burn tobacco. John's hope is that every owner of one of his pipes will testify that it is the sweetest pipe they ever owned. &quot;Maybe they will pause from time to time to savor the look and feel of it and send an occasional pleasant thought my way.&quot;<br />
<br />
=== Poplar Ridge Pipes ===<br />
John notes that, in fairness to himself and other pipe makers, it is important to make the point that sometimes, even though they strive to make perfect pipes, things happen that cause some of them to be less than a first-quality piece. If such flaws or mistakes will not adversely affect a pipe's smoking or usable life, destroying it would be a shame. Examples can include fissures, sand pits, poor grain, small hairline cracks, or minor misalignment in the drilling and boring. These things will happen and, for the most part, are outside the pipe maker's control due to the fact that brier is a naturally grown substance that will often have flaws. Sometimes a soft spot in the work will guide a flexible drill bit a tiny bit &quot;off.&quot;<br />
<br />
For this reason, from time to time, John will be making some of these pipes available under the name &quot;Poplar Ridge&quot; Pipes by J.H. Eells.&quot; Some of these pipes will have hand-cut stems, while others will have molded stems, the choice being determined by how far along john is in the process when he makes his decision. These pipes are made of the same quality brier that he uses to make all his pipes and will have the same smoking characteristics as his first line. John intends to offer these pipes at reduced prices in natural finishes so that potential buyers will be able to see exactly what they are paying for and will acquire good value relative to the cost. If a buyer wants one of these pipes finished out, John will be happy to do so. That is, John's intention is to make Poplar Ridge pipes available &quot;au naturel,&quot; with no stain or finish. However, he does honor requests to stain and polish them. <br />
<br />
=== The John Eells Giant by Ardor ===<br />
''The idea that we had to do a John Eels profile actually hit me when I saw the Monjure international ad in Pipes &amp; Tobaccos that introduced &quot;The John Eells Giant.&quot; As Steve Monjure wrote, &quot;We are very proud to honor this great man and master [pipe makers who is responsible for the creation of the Ardor Giant Series. This wonderful shape, designed by John, is a special pipe' named after a 'special man'. Here's how John explains how this all came about. [Ed]'' Here is how this thing got started. About six years ago at a show, I saw some of the Ardor pipes in the light Meteora finish on Steve's table. This new finish really caught my eye. After some discussion, I purchased one and was very pleasantly surprised by the feel and incredibly sweet taste and aroma of the pipe. (I add that it was a surprise because I had a disappointing experience with a three-pipe Detective set made by Ardor I had purchased back in the 80s. In no way are my remarks directed at the fine craftsmanship in the creation of these pieces. All three pipes were beautiful, and they were splendid examples of the pipe-maker's craft. Unfortunately, however, they all were quite bitter and bit the heck out of my tongue. I worked hard with them, but in the end they just didn't make the grade.)<br />
<br />
Because the experience of this new-found pie was so pleasurable, I made a special request of Steve to have one made for me in the same shape, only larger. Well, when I got it, it was another pipe the likes of which dreams are made. The I got carried away and requested an even larger one of the same shape, and it too was fantastic. Since then, I have kept these pipes close, and , although they are not for sale, I have made a special point to have them visible on my tables at shows. When inquiries were made about them, I always sent or escorted the people to Steve's display. <br />
<br />
Somewhere in this whole sequence of events, Steve and I had a discussion about pipe size. I like a big pipe. That's not to say I want them to be as large as what &quot;Esserman, Robinson and Morrison&quot; are accustomed to, but I do like them a little larger than the norm. Anyway, somewhere in this dialog (which is probably better described as a mingling of words and thoughts over time) between Steve and myself, he decided to request his carvers to send him some larger pieces in some of the already &quot;tried and true&quot; shapes as well as some new designs to see how thy would sell. From what I've seen and heard, it turned out to be very successful. I was delighted to see it happening because I like Steve and the support he gives the industry. He is truly one of the &quot;Good Guys.&quot; Now, somewhere in the midst of all these goings on, Steve asked me if they could make a shape similar to a large billiard that is one of the most requested shapes I make and if they could put my name on it. I should make it clear that my rendition (of a shape that has been around for many years before I was born) is certainly not a design I can take credit for. Anyway, I agreed.<br />
<br />
Honestly, I am flattered to have been given so much credit for pushing Steve into the &quot;Big Pipe&quot; arena, and I am grateful that he had such nice things to say in the Ardor ad. Also, I must confess that I really like the way he tells it a lot better than my recollection of events, but I must truthfully say that I really don't deserve that much. Everyone who knows Steve will agree that this kind of thing is in his nature. I am proud and honored that he considers me a friend.<br />
<br />
== Contact information ==<br />
John Eells<br />
11513 Poplar Ridge Rd.<br />
Richmond, VA 23236-2423, USA<br />
+1 804-794-3173<br />
E-mail: mailto:johneells1@comcast.net<br />
<br />
[[Category: Pipe makers by nationality]]<br />
[[Category: United States]]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Weiner&diff=11991Weiner2010-11-23T22:29:43Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://utugijynure.co.cc Page Is Unavailable Due To Site Maintenance, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=<br />
[[Image:steveweiner1.jpg|thumb|Rustic Bent Billiard, courtesy [http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/united-states/index.cfm Smokingpipes.com]]][[Image:steveweiner2.jpg|thumb|Rustic Volcano, courtesy [http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/united-states/index.cfm Smokingpipes.com]]]'''&quot;Steve Weiner''', a student of the legendary Michael Butera ([[Mike Butera]]), developed quite a reputation for himself before his untimely death in 2002. Widely considered to be one of the very best American pipe makers at the time, Weiner's work is highly sought after due to the phenomenal smoking characteristics of his pipes and the tremendous influence his work had on American pipe carving.&quot; --Bear Graves<br />
<br />
''The following article originally appeared in the Profiles of American Pipes Makers series in the May 1995 issue of The Pipe Collector, the official newsletter of the American Society of Pipe Collectors [http://naspc.org (NASPC)], and is used by permission. It's a great organization--consider joining.'' <br />
<br />
== Profiles of American Pipe Makers: Steve Weiner ==<br />
=== The Artisan ===<br />
Steve Weiner, Ohio pipe maker lives in Olmstead Falls, Ohio (a suburb of Cleveland), with his wife, Bonnie. Their Daughter graduated from Ohio University a year ago. Steve is president of his own utility bill consulting business, which performs electric, gas, and local telephone billing audits and verifications for such cliens as businesses and schools. He carves pipes in his basement workshop in the time remaining.<br />
<br />
After smoking cigarettes for many years, Steve decided to experiment with pipes in 1979, mostly, as he says, &quot;out of curiosity. Pipe smoking quickly turned into pipe collecting, and I was hooked on the hobby.&quot; Then, in 1989, Steve's 89 year-old grandfather, a pattern maker by trade, died and left Steve the contents of his workshop: a drill press, two motors, had files and countless drill bits and other odds and ends. Steve had previously toyed with the idea of crafting a pipe, but this legacy helped him make uip his mind. He built a workbench, set up a shop and began producing pipes-- &quot;or at least what I called pipes. They certainly didn't look like the Ascorti, Jacapo and Butera pipes I had been smoking, but I dept at it, and after a while they started to look like something.&quot;<br />
<br />
In the summer of 1990, Steve got a &quot;real break&quot;--a visit with [[Mike Butera]] in his Houston shop. As Steve says, &quot;During one long Saturday, I learned more about pipe making than I had in the entire previous year. When I got back home, I applied what I learned from Mike and, with some practice, began getting results that actually surprised me.&quot; Steve attended his first PCCA show as a pipe maker in 1991. He was honored as best pipe maker at the 1991 and 1994 C.O.R.P.S. shows in Richmond, VA and received an award of merit at the 1993 PCCA show in Washington, D.C.<br />
<br />
When I asked Steve what ideal, in terms of craftsmanship and smoking qualities, he strives for, he answered that, in his opinion, &quot;the best pipes being made today are those by Mike Butera. This is the standard to which I compare my pipes. I have yet to meet it, but I will keep trying.&quot; <br />
<br />
I remark to Steve that, as with every craftsman/artist, time must occur when he rises above the workmanlike job of producing a good, aesthetically pleasing product of which he can be proud and becomes inspired. What, I asked, causes such moments of inspirations? &quot;Luck,&quot; he replied, &quot;What inspires me is an exceptionally nice piece of wood. When I come across a nicely grained, flawless piece of wood, I tend to increase my effort to make the perfect pipe.&quot;<br />
<br />
Steve doesn't have one favorite tobacco but enjoys latakia blends and is currently smoking a matured Virginia from John B. Hayes called Tom's Red &amp; Black.<br />
<br />
=== The Pipes ===<br />
<br />
Steve Weiner makes his pipes from plateau briar and Italian lucite stems. The dot he puts in the stem is also briar, and his stem inlays are briar or lucite. he stamps each pipe with his name and &quot;U.S.A.,&quot; and he numbers and dates each one. For example, the pipe stamped &quot;00594&quot; is the fifth pipe he finished in 1994.<br />
<br />
Steve subjects his pipes to a two-step treatment process, the first to remove any excess resin from the wood and the second to coat the inside of the bowl with his special carbonizing formula to ease the break-in process and protect the wood. <br />
<br />
Steve hand shapes every pipe, using sanding disks, hand files and sandpaper. He turns the tenons on a small lathe and then buffs them for an exact fit. He hand sands his smooth pipes to 320 grit and then buffs, stains and waxes them. He hand carves his rough-finished pipes.<br />
<br />
Because Steve was a dedicated pipe smoker long before he started making pipes, he has definite ideas about what is needed to make a satisfying smoke:<br />
<br />
* He tapers his tobacco holes but not so severely that a tamper will not fit into the bottom of the bowl.<br />
* His air holes are relatively large to make for an easy draw.<br />
* He constructs each pipe so that you can slide a pipe cleaner all the way to the bottom of the bowl without removing the stem.<br />
* He slightly rounds the lip so it is not uncomfortable to the tongue.<br />
<br />
Steve's production varies with the time he can spend on his craft. For 1993 and 1994, he averaged 116 pipes. He has no philosophical objections to sandblasted pipes, but, because of space and expense considerations, he has not invested in sandblasting equipment. Therefore, when a briar block will not yield a smooth piece, he carves it. About 80% of his pipes are carved, and virtually all of his pipes are standard shapes or variations thereof. His retail pries start at $140 for a basic carved piece but can go up to $400 to $500 for smooth pieces with exceptional size and grain. Steve sells many of his pipes through Barclay Pipe &amp; Tobacco in Columbus, but he has also placed pipes in shops in Akron, Chagrin Falls, Cleveland and San Francisco and in Virgina and North and South Carolina.<br />
<br />
[[Category: Pipe makers by nationality]]<br />
[[Category: United States]]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Creating_Pipes_From_Morta&diff=11990Creating Pipes From Morta2010-11-23T22:29:26Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://isiqilujev.co.cc Under Construction! Please Visit Reserve Page. Page Will Be Available Shortly]=<br />
'''Creating Pipes From Morta, by [[Trever Talbert]]''', from his [http://talbertpipes.com/mortacreation.shtml website], and used by permission.<br />
== Finding and Harvesting Morta ==<br />
[[Image:map1.jpg|thumb|250px|The Briere]][[Image:mortacreation-briere1.jpg|thumb|250px|]]The process of obtaining morta is one of the biggest differences between the creation of a morta pipe and the creation of a briar pipe. Briar is an active industry emplying legions of workers and large mills for the most efficient harvesting and cutting of the wood, and a pipemaker can simply order pre-cut briar blocks by the bag at highly competitive prices. Some pipemakers, myself included, pay additional costs for purchasing handpicked blocks or traveling to the mills to choose their own, but this is still a relatively simple affair by comparison to the procurement of usable morta. In the map below, the large green area represents the Briere parkland:<br />
<br />
=== The Briere ===<br />
This area is roughly 16 miles across, and it is a trackless wasteland of marshes, fens, and open moors dotted with ancient standing stones. It is a vast area to search, and for most of the year it is inaccessible because the water levels in the crisscrossing aquaducts rise high enough that the open areas cannot be walked for morta. During the Fall, however, the water levels fall and during a narrow window from September to November one can (with wading boots) traverse through the moors. The morta lies under the moist surface packed in peat and mineral-rich clay, and can be 4' deep or more. It is found in the form of huge logs in the process of petrification due to the lack of oxygen required for the wood to rot, which it normally would have done long ago.<br />
<br />
The morta is found by walking the soft earth and &quot;poling&quot; - driving a long iron spike into the peat in prospector-fashion, to see if it strikes the hard log of a tree. Once a tree has been located and identified by repeated spiking to confirm that it really is a tree and not a random rock, the area is marked and the search continues. Once several trees have been located, the digging begins and it is a hard and laborous process. The earth must be dug out to reveal the black logs and make it possible to remove them, and they must either be sawn into movable pieces or lifted out with a portable crane and chains. This requires the rental of a truck for transporting the large and heavy sections of wood, plus a lot of hours of labor carrying the stuff across the marshes.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Drying and Cutting ==<br />
[[Image:cpstorage.jpg|thumb|250px|Morta and briar storage]]Once the morta has been unearthed and transported back here, it must be dried. This process is also rife with challenges, as morta dries faster than briar and if left exposed it will lose moisture too quickly and crack badly. The wood is kept covered in dark sheds for at least 2 years, and I will also be adding some end grain sealant and frequent re-moisturizing to this process in an attempt to control the splitting of the inflexible material. The logs are cut into radial sections and eventually moved into the workshop. A currently dry and usable log is visible in the picture below in the lower right shelf - each round section is ready to be cut into blocks, which will be further dried before use.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-cutting.jpg|thumb|left|255px|Morta block cutting]]The large sections of morta are cut into small blocks on the bandsaw, where it is possible to inspect them closely and work around the splits that have appeared. Below you can see a few large chunks of morta ready to become usable blocks:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-cutting2.jpg|thumb|255px|A morta block]]The cutting of the blocks will determine the layout of the radial grain, and blocks can also be cut specifically to allow for different tightness of rings. As with briar, each ring signifies a year's growth of the tree and tighter, more densely packed rings indicate wood that is the oldest within the tree. Below is a picture of a cut morta block with the sides sanded smooth in order to view the grain and plan the pipe design. Also visible is a small flaw. Morta is not prone to pits as briar, but does have its own share of defects including tiny splits and damaged areas.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Design Work ==<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-design2.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Morta pipe design]]<br />
Design work for morta pipes is really little different from briar design, except that often the blocks are so much smaller that the range of available shapes is very limited. One unique challenge of morta is the length of the blocks - often they are quite short and square rather than longer than they are wide, as with briar blocks. This can produce a very &quot;shankless&quot; look if one isn't careful, and can also put the tenon tip too near to the tobacco chamber without very precise drilling and fitting. [[Image:mortacreation-design.jpg|thumb|250|Morta design]] I expect to produce a large number of morta pipes with bamboo shanks or other types of shank extension for the higher grades, to help overcome this visual stylistic limitation. Below I am holding various stem styles to the block to help visualize the look of the finished pipe, and thereby finding a shape that I think will look good and smoke well.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Finally I have a simple design that I think will look graceful, and I mark the drilling lines on the block and return to the bandsaw to make some pre-drilling cuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Sawing ==<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-sawing.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Morta sawing]]<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-sawing2.jpg|thumb|250px|The roughed pipe]]I try to do a little more sawing of the block before the drilling begins, since it may reveal hidden flaws in the wood and it's better to see them now so that the block can be discarded than waste the time of drilling only to have to throw the pipe out later.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Once the block has been cut closer to shape, I inspect it again with a magnifying lens to see if there are any flaws visible, especially any splits which might run deeper into the wood and make the pipe unsmokable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Drilling ==<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-drilling1.jpg|thumb|left|250px|The stummel chucked in the lathe]]The example below will show the lathe used for drilling, but we actually have several different drilling methods that we can use depending on the requirements of a specific design. In this example, the stummel is chucked into the lathe using a heavy-duty two-jawed self-centering chuck designed for pipemaking, and a forstner bit is mounted in the tailstock to flatten the end of the shank off. We can turn the shank or the bowl round if we want to, or leave this shaping to be done by hand later. Morta is much more difficult to turn smoothly than briar is, and it wants to chip quite badly. Thus far I have found it easier to simply do the bowl shaping later by hand, using sanding discs, though that method also has some unusual challenges with morta.[[Image:mortacreation-drilling2.jpg|thumb|250px|Ready for chamber drilling]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Next you see the pipe ready for the drilling of the tobacco chamber. I always drill the airhole first and drill down to it with the chamber bit in order to get it perfectly level with the bowl bottom - I've never been satisfied with the inaccuracy of &quot;aiming&quot; to try and get the airhole bit to hit the bottom properly. In the picture below, the bowl and shank have been turned on the lathe and tweaked with files, to no great result as the surface is too chipped to use without serious sanding by hand on the wheel.<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-drilling3.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Drilled and Ready]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now, the chamber has now been drilled and checked for a good relationship with the airhole, and the pipe is ready for its detail shaping. The interior of the chamber is inspected with a magnifying lens once again to ensure that there are no hidden flaws which might compromise the durability of the material during smoking.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Detail Shaping ==<br />
[[Image:cpdetail.jpg|thumb|250px|The detailing area]]Detail shaping for morta is done much like it is with briar, though there are some differences. The big one is that metal cutting bits work much better with morta, and small reamers of various shapes are the primary tools I use with the rotary carver. Below is a picture of our detailing station where we keep all our hand files, rotary tools, and sanding wheels:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-detail.jpg|thumb|left|250px|The stummel in rough form]]The pipe goes from the lathe back to the bandsaw where the corners are cut off and the shape is further roughed out to produce something like the picture below:<br />
<br />
From here, the stummel is shaped almost entirely by hand and eye using the sanding wheels, drums, files, and the rotary carvers. One interesting point about morta is that it must be sanded with care, as it heats up strikingly (and painfully) with friction on a sanding disc. Anyone accustomed to the sudden burn from working a piece of metal held in the fingers will know what I speak of - the sanding goes normally when suddenly your fingers are on fire! The morta will become extremely hot but cool back down quickly, so the process of sanding and shaping requires more care in avoiding too much sustained pressure against the wheel. Morta is also much harder on sanding wheels and discs than briar is, and it will very quickly turn a new disc into a piece of smooth fabric.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Stem Work ==<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-stem.jpg|thumb|250px|Cutting the stem]]Stem work was one of my big debates at the beginning of the morta project, because it was obvious that if I made all the morta pipes with handcut stems the combined labor would make even the tiniest ones cost $300. Since no one wants to pay $350 for a thimble with a handcut stem, I chose to compromise and split the stem work according to the sizes/grades of the pipes themselves, thus keeping the smaller pieces relatively affordable while providing higher-end collectors with the quality of materials and workmanship that they expect. Classic-grade pipes use very good quality pre-shaped stems, while Signature-grade pipes use handcut stems. Even in the case of the molded stems, however, there is a good bit of stem work to do. The bits are filed thinner for comfort, and the airholes are carefully opened to match the size of the shank airhole in order to maintain the proper flow of smoke without inducing condensation problems. All bits, whether molded or handcut, are also sculpted at the buttons to open the interior and allow easier pipecleaner insertion. Here I am doing just that, using a jeweler's bit that performs this task well.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Finishing ==<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-finish1.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Sanding]]<br />
The single advantage that morta pipes have over briar in terms of ease-of-creation is in finishing - the coloring is all in the wood and the pipes cannot be stained. The black (or brown, or greenish-black) is the natural color of the material. Also, morta is open-grained, meaning that the rings are actually open to the air, resembling a series of small dots on the surface rather than coloring in the wood. This can cause hassles in buffing because the open rings want to pack with buffing compound and the surface must be carefully polished with a fine bristle wheel to remove any embedded gunk. The first step is still sanding, however, and the pipe is normally sanded to 600 grit on the surface. I use higher grits on the higher grade mortas, but it's not entirely needed as the surface does not take a high gloss like briar and going into the extreme levels of sandpaper grit is more wasted effort than actual results. Here I am doing the basic sanding on one of the first grade 3's.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-finish2.jpg|thumb|250px|Buffing]]The next step is buffing - first with brown compound which helps to reveal any remaining surface scratches and then with white compound to achieve a good gloss. Morta wants to maintain a satin finish - I have waxed and polished pieces to an extreme level but they quickly dull back down to a low sheen in use, and I've concluded that the material is simply so open that a briar-like finish isn't possible.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-finish3.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Stamping]]The final stage in making a morta pipe is to stamp it. I still stamp by hand without using jigs or braces, which is why my logos are often somewhat skewed (much like my mind) - it's the authentic Talbert touch that proves the pipe isn't a forgery :) Morta is a little easier to stamp than briar because the surface doesn't scratch as easily from fiddling the stamp around. There is one big problem with morta stamping however, and that is legibility - the open graining of the wood makes it sometimes challenging to clearly read the small stamping. It is likely that sometime in the future I will have a new set of stamps made specially for the morta pipes which will have larger and heavier lettering for better results.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Once the stamping is done, the pipe receives a final wax and polish and a new morta pipe is ready for smoking!'''<br />
<br />
[[Image:mortacreation-finish4.jpg|thumb|center|400px|The finished pipe!]]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Carlson&diff=11989Carlson2010-11-23T22:29:23Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://umuziny.co.cc This Page Is Currently Under Construction And Will Be Available Shortly, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=<br />
[[Image:Bengt_Carlson.jpg|right]]<br />
By '''Jan Andersson''' (Written may 2002)<br />
<br />
Many of us have probably considered making a pipe by ourselves. And certainly that pipe should be something special, “the pipe of our dreams”. Some of us have even found a block and got started.<br />
<br />
The first discovery probably is that it is much more difficult than expected. You grind a little here and a little there and before even noticing, you have been grinding too much. When you at last consider yourself ready, the pipe will probably not look as you had anticipated, but perhaps that does not matter. It may look nice anyway and it is much easier to overlook some imperfections knowing that you have made the pipe entirely by yourself. If then the pipe does not taste very well, you will blame the wood. There are briar-blocks that may have an unpleasant taste, but they are rare, very rare. A more accurate explanation is that you have not drilled the block correctly. The interior of a pipe is extremely important. The diameter of all channels must be correct, the tobacco chamber must be formed in a proper way, the tenon must fit correctly, yes, there are a lot of details to think about.<br />
<br />
But how can you learn to make all these details correctly? Many pipemakers have stated that the best way is to start with repairing. The late, famous pipemaker [[Sixten Ivarsson]] started his career this way. But a happy amateur cannot start repairing other people’s pipes, so he has to stick to his own. One advantage with this is that you do not have to stop by just replacing a broken tenon or putting a new stem on the pipe, you can also change the exterior of the pipe. If you find the shank a little too clumsy, make it a little thinner. And if the head is too chubby you can change that too. In that way you get experience and are developing your sense for proportions.<br />
<br />
In spring 1993 I got a letter containing the following passage''':'''<br />
<br />
&quot;Yesterday I altered the shape of an old Stanwell-pipe. I made it 8-pannelled and made the shank and bite a little thinner. It looks wonderful. Even my dear wife thought it was beautiful. Remains seeing if that impression lasts.&quot;<br />
<br />
The letter came from [[Bengt Carlson]] but at that time, I had no idea what this experiment and others would lead to. If I had known, I think my mind had boggled.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Bengt meets [[Bo Nordh]]'''<br />
[[Image:Bengt Carlson Pipe07.jpg|right]]<br />
I reminded Bengt about the letter and he remembered the pipe, but it is no longer in his possession. “I have probably sold it at one of our auctions”, was his comment. Bengt was also surprised that he had made 8 panels; he thought that seemed too “square”.<br />
<br />
From a nostalgic view it is a pity that Bengt no longer owns this pipe, because I think the altering of this specific pipe made him interested in making pipes of his own. Bengt knew that I was dabbling in this hobby and that I bought my blocks from [[Bo Nordh]]. It did not take long till Bengt paid this master a visit. So now I was no longer the only buyer of “cast-off blocks” from Bo, I had got competition. “Cast-off blocks” may sound second-hand and bad quality, but it is not quite like that. Bo buys sacks of blocks in the highest quality available. Then he is grinding all the blocks and keeps the ones he considers best suited for his pipes. The rest we may buy. But Bo has an extremely good reputation, so no one delivers anything but the very very best to him. That means that even the blocks he rejects are of such a high quality that similar blocks are hard to find anywhere else.<br />
<br />
Bengt became a frequent visitor to [[Bo Nordh]] and he really took notice of all good advice he got. I think that Bo and Bengt are similar in one way, they have an absolute feeling to make nothing but the perfect. I also think Bo quite early noticed Bengt’s great talent for pipemaking, which not the least was noticeable in his attitude. When I showed some pipes I had made to Bo, he was always overlooking and kind. He realised that I was a happy amateur and would never be anything else. With Bengt there was a difference - Bo was very critical, sometimes even ruthless. The explanation is, of course, that he noticed Bengt’s talent.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Good equipment is a must'''<br />
<br />
But to make something first-class you must have suitable equipment. Bengt only had the ordinary tools most “do-it-yourself” people have in their cellars. So he had to invest in better machinery and first of all in a lathe.<br />
<br />
In 1998 Bengt got the possibility to retire, only 60 years old. This gave him more time for his hobby, something he had really longed for. Step by step Bengt built a well-functioning workshop and the rumour about his pipes was spread, above all in the U.S. Bengt got some influential customers over there and the word about his fine pipes got out. Suddenly his pipes were very much sought after. Nowadays Bengt has no problem in selling his pipes, there are always customers who want more than he can make. But in this aspect Bengt is exactly like Bo - he can not be stressed but works as he wants himself, the customers just have to wait. As a retiree he can afford this luxury. The production is about 25 pipes a year.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Finishes and stamps'''<br />
<br />
Bengt’s pipes are either plain or rusticated. So far he has not tried sandblasting. The rustication is made with a dentist’s drill and often looks like a sandblasted pipe with a ring-grain. The plain pipes are either nature-coloured (just oiled) or in a medium brown colour. Before they get their final colour, they are all stained with black, which is then grinded away. That is to make the grain more outstanding.<br />
All pipes are stamped “'''BC Sweden'''” and nothing else. Bengt has several times been asked to put more stamps on his pipes, the year the pipe was made, quality grading and so on, but has so far neglected to do so. The pressure has mainly come from the U.S. where a collector often wants many stamps on his pipe, the more the better. But I also think they respect individual pipemakers, like Bo Nordh and Bengt, who do not fall for this pressure.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''A Bun and a Blowfish'''<br />
[[Image:Bengt Carlson Pipe08.jpg|right]] <br />
<br />
[[Image:Bengt Carlson Pipe09.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
I actually do not have to ask Bengt about his favourite shape, I think I already know. And the answer is exactly what I had expected - the “ordinary Bun”, as Bengt is calling it. In the picture you can see an example of a “Bun”. This is also the shape you usually see Bengt himself smoking. It is light and comfortable to hold in the mouth and the walls are thick enough, so the pipe will not burn hot. It has all the credits of a well-functioning pipe.<br />
<br />
But Bengt likes challenges and even if he is sometimes hesitating, he can not avoid tackling them. The “Blowfish” is such a challenge. This shape was originally created by Lars Ivarsson, the son of the earlier mentioned Sixten Ivarsson. Lars got the idea when he was looking at a fish in his aquarium, a Blowfish. I do not know what such a fish looks like, but it became a thrilling pipe-shape. But it is probably one of the most difficult to make. First you have to find a suitable block, so that the grain will be horizontal on the plain parts and bird’s eyes on the sides. Not many blocks can match that. Because of the grain, the pipe has to be asymmetrical and there is the next problem. It must look good from every angel you look at it – and you have to make that without spoiling the grain. Not an easy task!<br />
<br />
I have always been very fond of this shape and when I recently on my 60’s birthday got a Blowfish from Bengt, my happiness was complete. And I think the pipe I got, is the most beautiful Blowfish Bengt ever made. Of course I have to put a picture of this “dream-pipe” here.<br />
Every time I speak to Bengt about the Blowfish, he shakes his head and says: “I have so many times decided never to make a pipe in that shape again, but then I find a suitable block and suddenly I have started once more”. I am not alone to be grateful for this, many of his customers are constantly asking for a Blowfish signed '''BC Sweden'''.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Bamboo and Horn'''<br />
[[Image:Bengt Carlson Pipe03.jpg|left|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:Bengt Carlson Pipe02.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
When this is written Bengt is eagerly working with bamboo and horn, two materials he has not been using before. So this is a new challenge. By the way, bamboo is very hard to find nowadays and has become very expensive. You can not use any bamboo, the annual rings have to be close. One of the first pipes with bamboo Bengt made is an “Elephant Foot” and you can see that pipe here.<br />
<br />
I have had the privilege to follow Bengt’s progress as a pipemaker from the start, step by step. Modern technology makes it easy to scan pipes and Bengt usually is sending me a picture of every new pipe he has made. It is always with excitement and great expectations I open these mails.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Many hobbies, much to do'''<br />
[[Image:Bengt Carlson Pipe01.jpg|left|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:Bengt Carlson Pipe05.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
Bengt is today sharing his time between looking after his grand-children, playing golf, taking care of the family’s summer-house, serving his wife Inga-Lill who is still working and – of course - making pipes. Sometimes I take him away from all these duties with a lot of articles and pictures and then he has to start making a new issue of '''Rökringar''', the magazine for the '''Pipe Club of Sweden'''. I think the life as a retiree may be a little stressful sometimes, but it sounds like a really good life, no?<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category: Pipe makers by nationality]]<br />
[[Category: Sweden]]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Chacom&diff=11988Chacom2010-11-23T22:29:05Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://awibuky.co.cc Under Construction! Please Visit Reserve Page. Page Will Be Available Shortly]=<br />
&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''[http://www.pipechacom.com/ Chacom]'''&lt;/font&gt;<br />
<br />
<br />
&lt;span style=&quot;color: red&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;4&quot;&gt;Under construction!&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br />
<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
<br />
1825 : Well before the discovery of briarwood the COMOY family manufactured pipes in the small village of Avignon, near to Saint-Claude, mostly in boxwood for the &quot;Grumblers&quot; of the Army of Napoleon.<br />
<br />
1850 : Birth of Henry COMOY, founder of the brand.<br />
<br />
1856 : Discovery of briarwood and particularly the special treatment it required for the making of pipes. Saint-Claude becomes the birthplace of briar pipe manufactures and the world capital of pipe-making.<br />
<br />
1870 : Henri COMOY, prisoner of war in Switzerland meets his cousins the Chapuis and ruminates the idea of an association.<br />
<br />
1879 : Henry COMOY emigrates to London with some of his technicians from Saint-Claude and establishes the first English pipe factory in England H. COMOY &amp; C° LTD. The Saint-Claude factory supplies them with briarwood and pipe bowls.<br />
<br />
1922 : After the First World War the association COMOY and CHAPUIS is realised and the Saint-Claude factory becomes CHAPUIS COMOY &amp; Cie.<br />
<br />
1924 : Death of Henri COMOY. His sons Paul and Adrien assume the direction of the factories in Saint-Claude and London assisted by their cousins Emile and Louis Chapuis.<br />
<br />
1928 : London now able to produce their own pipes, and in order to develop the Saint-Claude factory, the brand CHACOM is created, using the first three letters of the COMOY and CHAPUIS families. Up till 1939 CHACOM was offered only in France, Belgium and Switzerland in order not to embarrass the COMOY pipes which had the same shapes and qualities.<br />
<br />
1932 : The world economic crisis reaches Saint-Claude. To weather this problem Chapuis Comoy &amp; Cie joins with another company under the name of LA BRUYERE, forming the biggest pipe concern in the world with 450 workpeople. Big trucks were needed to transfer the briar blocks from the drying shed to the factory.<br />
<br />
1945 : After the Second World War CHACOM assumes its entire commercial liberty and launches a complete and modern range of pipes.<br />
<br />
1946 : Chacom becomes the principal brand in France and Belgium.<br />
<br />
1947 – 1948 : CHACOM, number one in Scandinavia, Germany, then United States…<br />
<br />
1957 : In face of the commercial preponderance of the brand CHACOM the company La Bruyère returns to the name of CHAPUIS COMOY &amp; Cie.<br />
<br />
1964 : Death of Adrien COMOY. His son Pierre succeeds to him in London. Mr REED is the Chairman and Managing Director in Saint-Claude.<br />
<br />
1965 : First French brand named pipe in JAPAN<br />
<br />
1971 : Having recovered its independence from COMOYS of London, Yves GRENARD, second cousin of Pierre COMOY, takes over the Direction of Chapuis Comoy &amp; Cie and at the same time the exclusive sale of H. COMOY &amp; Ltd, in France.<br />
<br />
1978 : Pierre MOREL, independent free-hand pipe maker, creates for Chacom a line completely hand made the Chacom Grand Cru. He is the creator of the free-hand shapes Naja and &quot;Fleur de Bruyère&quot;.<br />
<br />
1987 : Pierre MOREL joins the team Chapuis-Comoy as full-time.<br />
<br />
1994 : Chapuis-Comoy integrates ROPP company.<br />
<br />
1996 : First design pipe : Chacom Volute, realised in collaboration with Claude ROBIN<br />
<br />
1997 : First French pipe to be exported to Russia and East countries<br />
<br />
1998 : Chacom Volute n° 2 is launched<br />
<br />
1999 : The Pipe Trade Association signed a contract with the authorities for developing pipe industries. One of the action is the co-operation with designers who create the new PASTEL Collection and specially the HEDO and CYCLADE for Chacom.<br />
<br />
2001 : Yves GRENARD designed for Chacom the MILLENIUM, a new line for one thousand years as a new shape will be designed each year.<br />
<br />
2002 : Introduction of Chacom in China<br />
<br />
2003 : Another design line by Erwin VAN HANDENHOVEN with black or nacre insert.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Contact Information ==<br />
<br />
Chapuis-Comoy &amp; Cie Sarl<br />
4 Rue des Etapes, B.P. 82<br />
39203 Saint-Claude Cedex<br />
France<br />
<br />
Phone: +33 (0)3 84 45 00 00<br />
Fax: +33 (0)3 84 45 20 34<br />
E-mail: [mailto:chacom@free.fr chacom@free.fr]<br />
Website: [http://www.pipechacom.com/ Chacom]<br />
<br />
[[Category: Pipe makers by nationality]][[Category: France]]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=The_Complete_Corncob_primer&diff=11985The Complete Corncob primer2010-11-23T22:28:34Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://imyqokyf.co.cc Page Is Unavailable Due To Site Maintenance, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=<br />
==The Complete Corncob Primer==<br />
'''By tiltjlp''' See also [[Missouri Meerschaum Corncob Buying Guide]]<br />
<br />
While I’ve been smoking cobs for over 50 years, I’m no expert, but just maybe my dad was, and he taught me everything he knew. While I’ve learned some things on my own over the years, I still use every bit of information my dad gave me back in June of 1959. While he did own a few briars, I never saw him smoke anything other than a cob. I answer a lot of questions about cobs, but have also been given some good tips and pointers from other experienced cobbers. This and what my dad started me out with make up this Corncob Primer, which is updated and expanded when needed.<br />
<br />
*General Information*<br />
<br />
Missouri Meerschaum brand cobs are all that I smoke, and the only ones I would advise anyone to use. I’ve tried other brands, but none had the quality of MM cobs. MM has been making cobs since 1869, and they simply are the best. You can check out their entire product line, and read their history [http://www.corncobpipe.com/ here]. [http://www.marscigars.com/corncob.aspx Mars] has the best selection and prices of any e-tailer I have found, and they offer a 10% discount on dozen lots. [http://www.walkerbriarworks.com/html/cobs___stems.html Walker Briar Works] sells Corn Cob Pipes and special Vulcanite and Lucite Stems for Cob Pipes. Most MM models come with paper filters, and I’m of the opinion that the filters only get damp and smelly. So I very strongly suggest you remove and discard them. <br />
<br />
Missouri Meerschaum does use Plaster-of-Paris and lacquer to finish their non-natural pipes, and a black stain on a few models. Usually, it doesn’t cause a problem on the inside of the bowl, but sometimes it can be a nuisance. If you notice any kind of stain inside the bowl, or just to be on the safe side, lightly use sand paper to remove anything and everything other than cob from the inside of the bowl. Some folks also sand the outside of the bowls, to make them “more natural”. Or just buy the Pride or Eaton, or the new Corncob Snob Society Natural Freehand which are natural and unfinished. All MM cobs are good smokers, but I prefer the natural over the plastered. <br />
<br />
*Preparing For Your 1st Smoke*<br />
<br />
Since cobs are low-cost and machine-made, with little if any finish work done to them, except for the two Corncob Snob Society Natural Freehand versions, which are hand-assembled, give them the once over before smoking them, and if needed, do some trimming with a pen knife to clear out the air way and the stem inside the bowl. There are some people who are critical of the quality of workmanship, but all but a few models retail for well under $10.00, with many under $5.00. So, if you accept them for what they are, I think you will find them quite the bargain. As for the wooden shank that extends inside the bowl, while some cobbers remove them, I’ve always left them, and over time, have gotten used to them. The models with hardwood plugs are no problem, but other versions will become more prone to burnout if the inner shank is removed. Cobs with paper labels don’t have hardwood bottoms.<br />
<br />
So if you decide to remove the inner portion of the shank, I’d strongly advise you to protect the bottom of the bowl with the application of Pipe Mud. Pipe Mud is a fairly thick mixture of cigar ash and either saliva or water. Mix until you have a thick mud, and then apply several layers, letting each layer dry partially. Allow the cob to rest several days, so the pipe mud can cure. <br />
<br />
*Dad’s Original Advice*<br />
<br />
After 50 years, I still use my dad's way of doing things. I don't fool with a false/charring light, but simply light it and start smoking.<br />
<br />
Dry your tobacco more than you think you need to.<br />
Pack it looser than you think you need to.<br />
Smoke it slower than you think you need to.<br />
Tamp it less , and more lightly, than you think you need to.<br />
Clean your pipes after every smoke, using pipe spirits of some sort.<br />
Don’t worry if you have a few relights.<br />
<br />
Using the advice offered here, your Missouri Meerschaum cob, no matter which model, should give you many years of service and satisfying smoking pleasure. In the past, I’ve had cobs last me as long as 22 years, and know folks who report over 30 years of use from a cob. With this kind of record, and the affordable cost, I don’t understand why some people will read this, and still buy either used cobs on eBay, or off-brands, which never match the quality of Missouri Meerschaum.<br />
*Avoiding Cake Build-Up*<br />
<br />
You don't need, or in my opinion, want cake in a cob. What makes a cob so good is that it somehow first absorbs tars and strong flavors, and then dissipates them, which keeps the cob smoking fresh, if properly cleaned. Cake will not allow this to happen. Here’s the advice I offer new pipers, based on what my dad taught me back during the summer of 1959. I find it helps solve nearly every pipe smoking problem, and not just for cobs. While I smoke burley a lot more than any other tobacco, the following applies to any blend in any pipe. <br />
<br />
*Drying Tobacco, Packing, &amp; Smoking*<br />
<br />
I dry nearly every blend that I smoke, at least a bit, and most, close to bone dry. I pack it very loose; after all these years, I just know by instinct how loose. If you think you are packing your pipe loosely, but still have issues with tongue bite, you’re probably still have it much too tight, or the tobacco is not dry enough. I don't use the tamper at all when packing. I also don't fool with a charring light, but start the tobacco burning full blast. My dad claimed that someone had told him match companies back in the mid-1700s are who invented the charring light, in order to sell more matches. And I never worry about relights; sometimes I'll need a few, sometimes none.<br />
<br />
The most important thing is smoking lazy, as I call it. Ideally, your pipe should always be on the verge of going out; that's how you extract the most taste and flavor from whatever blend you are enjoying. You should keep your cobs, and other pipes, sparkling clean. I’ll use a pipe cleaner during a smoke, if needed, and both bristle and regular cleaners after every single smoke. I use Bee Sweetener whenever needed, which is usually every couple of smokes, at the most. The time and expense needed to keep your pipes clean will pay you dividends in more flavor and enjoyment. This has worked for me for 49 years, and I've never had tongue bite. Most of what I do goes against &quot;current thinking&quot;, which only shows that there is no one right way.<br />
<br />
*After Smoke Do-To-List*<br />
<br />
After each smoke, what I do is take the pipe apart. I use pipe cleaners dampened with Pipemaster’s Clean &amp; Cure on the stem, as well as the shank and bowl, and then wipe off the end of the tendon. After every smoke, I use a wadded up paper towel to scrub the inside of the bowl. I also use a pipe cleaner dampened with Bee Sweetener on the rim of the bowl every other week, to get rid of tars that build up there.<br />
<br />
Cobs seldom retain ghosts from any tobacco, although there are always exceptions. And just like Meerschaums, you can smoke a cob again, as soon as it has cooled and you have cleaned it. Also, cobs require much less breaking in than briars. Some people are bothered by the taste of the inner shank, but that usually goes away after 4-6 bowls. And make sure that you remove the paper filter that comes with most cobs, and discard it; all it does is get wet and smell bad.<br />
<br />
*Quality Control Issues*<br />
<br />
The biggest complaint I hear about cobs is about the plastic bits. After all these years, I’ve probably gotten used to them, since I don’t really mind them. If they are a problem for you, why not consider having better quality bits/stems made for each model MM cob you have, and switch them between cobs. At least a member or two has done this, and would share their experience if asked. Or if you decide to stay with the plastic bits, you can buy replacement bits very affordably, either from MM, or from Mars. Of course, the Freehand comes with a vulcanite bit/stem, so maybe that would solve your problem. <br />
<br />
*Exterior Pipe Care*<br />
<br />
One of the complaints I hear about cobs is that that look seedy, but I prefer the term rustic. Another problem for some folks is how they look over time. It really shouldn’t matter, since cob exteriors don’t have a thing to do with smoking quality. But I know that looks are important, or nearly all of us would smoke nothing but cobs and basket pipes. 4 Diplomats that I got about 6 months ago are sort of special, in that I experimented with them. Some of you might remember getting a chuckle from my post about rubbing those 4 Diplomats with Aloe Vera Gel. My idea was to see if the Aloe Vera Gel would minimize the surface cracking that can happen with cobs. While the surface cracking doesn’t affect the smoking quality, it can shorten the life of a cob.<br />
<br />
Well, the Aloe Vera Gel worked like a charm. Those 4 cobs, which probably have been used 250 times each, look like they’ve only been used a month. Since those cobs were really sorry looking, I finally decided to clean them using Pledge Clean &amp; Shine, Orange scent, Anti-Dust Formula. The difference is like night and day. Of course they don’t look spanking brand new, but they do look fashionable enough to take with me if I need a pipe for my infrequent travels. They now look well seasoned, but no longer so gross they embarrass me. As a bonus, they smell good too, at least on the outside. So if you have a few cobs that look ready for the trash heap, I suggest you grab a can of furnisher <br />
polish.<br />
<br />
Flare-ups vs Burnouts*<br />
<br />
What some of you may think is a Burn Out might actually be what I call a Flare Up. This happened to me the first time recently, with a well-smoked cob, and while I’m not sure what causes it, I’ll explain what happened. I was using a Zippo Pipe Lighter, and was distracted, and probably held the lighter in one spot too long. One section of the upper inner bowl and rim caught on fire, which I blew out right away. While one section of the inner bowl is now very well-toasted, it’s none the worse for wear, and is still a good smoker. And now for my reviews.<br />
<br />
*Wet Weather Cob *<br />
<br />
Cobs are great year round, but do need a bit more attention in damp weather, since they tend to absorb some of the surrounding moisture. So, while I usually tell folks to allow their cobs to cool completely before smoking them again, you may need to let them dry out completely too. And that means both inside and out. One thing that might help if it's really damp is to store your clean, dry cobs in Ziploc or similar Freezer Bags. This will keep them from absorbing even more moisture, which won't really be noticed except when you smoke them, and realize something isn't quite right. Cobs have the ability to absorb massive amounts of moisture, and then disapate it over time. Normally it'll only take about a 1/2 hour, but sometimes under extreme conditions it can seem like forever. I've never know a cob that didn't eventually recover. Pretty amazing for a pipe with an average price of well under $10.00. Putting them in a warm over, after removing the plastic bit, also works if you use the lowest setting, and only do it for a few minutes.<br />
<br />
*Breaking In Cobs*<br />
<br />
Advice offered by SmokeyTheWerewolf was so good I asked his permission to include it in the Corncob Primer. Thanks very much Smokey.<br />
<br />
People say that cobs require no break-in. Compared to a briar pipe, I suppose that's nearly true, but there is a bit of a break-in period.<br />
<br />
With the first few bowls in a new cob, when you get near the bottom, that wood from the shank inside the bowl will start to burn. When it starts to taste bad, I stick with it just a few puffs more to help char that wood out of there. Then I sit the pipe down and let it smolder completely out before emptying the bowl or trying to clean it. I figure while it's sitting there a bit more of the wood may burn, and I don't want to stop it from doing so. After 2 bowls, and then again after 4 bowls I hit that shank with a reamer with very little pressure. I'm only trying to whittle away the charred wood and expose more unburned so it will burn out more easily next time. After 6 bowls, your cob should be good and broken in.<br />
<br />
In that process, most of the the wood shank will have been burned away. The little spaces to the side and under that shank will have filled with ash and just a bit of moisture making a natural pipe mud that will help round out the bottom of your bowl and provide for better smoke draught mechanics and will help protect the bottom of your cob from burnout.<br />
<br />
*Modifying Your Cobs*<br />
<br />
Adding a hard wood plug is pretty easy to do. This short how-to was provided by Billiard, also known as the Cobbler, who is an expert on modifying corncobs<br />
<br />
Depending on the height of the cob you are modifying, you may also wish to cut off the bottom end of your cob to a shorter size, a good example of this is the McArthur, since it has a large section of cob under the shank that you can remove that will save you both size and weight. Most cob bowls are just fine how they are and you do not need to cut them. If you are shortening the bottom of the cob simply put the cob portion you will be throwing out into a vise and use a hacksaw to saw it off.<br />
<br />
If there’s a sticker at the bottom of the bowl, remove it and then use a pocket knife to poke a hole through the bottom of the cob's bowl dead center. Using a pocket knife twist it back and forth to make the hole a little larger. Don't make it too big yet, keep it small for now. <br />
<br />
Next, make the hard wood plug. You can buy a cherry dowel from WoodCraft or Home Depot and these work great, a 3/4&quot; dowel is best for most bowls but for the smaller cobs use a 1/2&quot; dowel. Buy the shortest dowel they sell and it will last you a lifetime of cobs. Measure the distance between the air hole and the bottom of the cob's bowl walls and then cut off a length of the dowel to that size.<br />
<br />
Now open the bottom of your bowl to fit the plug. Go slow here, sand paper works just fine, it make take a few minutes longer than a dremel but this is a one time thing. Only whittle enough of the cob out to fit the plug in nice and tight, using firm hand pressure, so not to risk cracking the cob's bowl. Use the plug as a template, you want this as matching as possible. <br />
<br />
Once the plug fits, take it back out and set it aside. You can remve the inner shank if you wish, cutting it flush with the inside wall of the bowl. Now put a wee bit of Elmer's Carpenter glue around the outside of the plug and the inside of the cob's bowl that the plug will touch and put it place. Clean the excess glue from the bottom and use a Q-tip to clean the excess glue from the inside of the bowl. Give your modified cob 24 hours before smoking it.<br />
<br />
Cobs aren’t going to be for everyone. But if you keep an open mind, and follow the advice offered here, you might be surprised. I hope this helps you enjoy your cobs, and any other pipes, a bit more. To view my MM Buying Guide, follow the 1st link below. To visit the Missouri Meerschaum website, for product and ordering information, and a bit of company history, follow the 2nd link below.<br />
<br />
John Patton/tiltjlp<br />
<br />
<br />
http://www.corncobpipe.com/<br />
<br />
Updated 10/01/2009<br />
<br />
See also:&lt;br /&gt;<br />
[[Missouri Meerschaum Corncob Buying Guide]] &lt;br /&gt; <br />
[http://www.walkerbriarworks.com/html/cobs___stems.html Walker Briar Works' Corn Cob Pipes &amp; 'Forever' Stems]</div>Olocedexhttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Kaywoodie&diff=11983Kaywoodie2010-11-23T22:28:32Z<p>Olocedex: </p>
<hr />
<div>=[http://azysijogen.co.cc This Page Is Currently Under Construction And Will Be Available Shortly, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=<br />
Current Kaywoodie [http://www.smfrankcoinc.com/kaywoodie/index.htm website]<br />
<br />
''This article is under development. Photos and many other resources coming soon. Kaywoodie experts, please dive in!'' Click the discussion tab above.<br />
<br />
[[Image:kaywoodie_medvill2.gif|right|thumb|The Heidelberg Pipe, Circa 1920's, Handed down from Kaywoodie President to President, courtesy [http://www.smfrankcoinc.com/kaywoodie/masters/sm_medvl.htm S.M. Frank]]]<br />
[[Image:kaywoodie_medvill1.gif|left|thumb|The Heidelberg Pipe, Circa 1920's, Handed down from Kaywoodie President to President, courtesy [http://www.smfrankcoinc.com/kaywoodie/masters/sm_medvl.htm S.M. Frank]]]<br />
'''The following article is on the history of the [[S. M. Frank &amp; Co. Inc.]], and includes an excellent history of KBB, Kaywoodie, and Yellow-bole. Written By: Bill Feuerbach III, September 22, 1977, and used here by permission. Bill mentioned that he has a more current revised version of this that will hopefully be coming soon '''<br />
<br />
<br />
The history of S. M. Frank &amp; Co. spans nearly a century and half of pipe making, supporting our claim as the &quot;oldest pipe house in America.&quot; S. M. Frank, as it exists today, is a combination of some of the biggest names in pipe making from the early part of the 20th. century. The pipe names Kaywoodie, Yello-Bole, Reiss-Premier, DeMuth, Medico, Heritage and Frank are familiar to generations of pipe smokers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Early History === <br />
[[Image:kawwoodie_shapes_36.jpg|thumb|1936 Kaywoodie Shape Chart, Courtesy of [http://www.chriskeene.com Chris Keen]]]<br />
[[Image:kawwoodie_shapes70_71.jpg|thumb|1970-71 Kaywoodie Shape Chart, Courtesy of [http://www.chriskeene.com Chris Keen]]]<br />
'''Kaywoodie''' was the name a pipe offered by Kaufman Brothers &amp; Bondy Company (KBB), first appearing in February of 1919. The Dinwoodie pipe, also by KBB, appeared in November of 1919. Sometime before 1924, the Dinwoodie had been discontinued and the Kaywoodie name was beginning to be used on an extensive line of pipes that ultimately would be the name of the company. The origin of the name Kaywoodie is a combination of the K from Kaufman and wood, as in briar. Not much is known of the original KBB company other than it was started in 1851 by the German born Kaufman brothers when they opened a small pipe shop in the Bowery section of New York City. In the back room of this shop, they made their first pipes. From this meager beginning, the Kaywoodie name and organization was to emerge.<br />
<br />
When one of the men from the New York office got &quot;gold fever&quot;, he carried a large supply of pipes with him to California that he sold along the way. This early &quot;national distribution&quot; did much to build the reputation of KBB. By the late 1800's, branches of KBB were opened in Chicago, Atlanta, San Francisco and St. Louis with family and friends acting as agents. The trademarks, for the inlaid cloverleaf and the cloverleaf with the KBB initials inside, were issued in 1881. KBB's pipes became more popular and were in constant demand by the end of the century. Orders were streaming back east and KBB needed to move to larger manufacturing facilities. By 1915 the move was made to larger facilities in the old Union Hill section of Union City, New Jersey. The salesroom offices were located at 33 East 17th. Street, New York. When the Kaywoodie pipe was first introduced by KBB it came with a hand cut rubber mouthpiece fitted with an aluminum Inbore Tube. This device was to &quot;assure a clean, cool smoke.&quot; Other KBB pipes such as Ambassador, Heatherby and Melrose also had the Inbore tube. The early Drinkless Kaywoodies from 1924 through 1931 had push bit stems. In 1931, after three years of research, the new Drinkless Kaywoodies with the synchro-stem, (threaded drinkless screw-in mouthpiece) were introduced. The drinkless attachment was advertised as cooling the smoke from 850 degrees in the bowl to 82 degrees when it entered the mouth. By the mid 1930's, all Kaywoodie's came with the screw mounted Drinkless attachment. (Export Kaywoodies, available briefly from 1950-1955, had push bit stems and were available in all the same shapes and finishes as the drinkless versions.)<br />
<br />
Again, demand for KBB pipes and especially Kaywoodie prompted another move for both the manufacturing facilities and the corporate offices. In 1930 the corporate office moved into the Empire State Building on Fifth Avenue in New York. By 1935, the manufacturing operations moved from Union City to 6400 Broadway in West New York, New Jersey which, at the time, was touted as the largest pipe making facility in the world. At the height of production, there were 500 employees producing up to 10,000 pipes per day.<br />
<br />
The corporate offices were relocated in 1936 to the International Building, Rockefeller Center, 630 Fifth Avenue, New York. The invitation to visit the new office reads, &quot;Kaywoodie is now on display at the world's most famous address - Rockefeller Center. Here Kaywoodie takes its place among the leaders of industry and commerce.&quot; The move to Rockefeller Center coincided with The Kaywoodie Company's emergence as a subsidiary of KBB. All of the pipes manufactured by KBB including the Yello-Bole line were also on display here. By 1938 Kaywoodie had opened an office in London to meet worldwide demand. Kaywoodie of London was jointly owned with another famous pipemaker, Comoy's of London.<br />
<br />
The Yello-Bole line was introduced in 1932 and was an outlet for lower grade briar not used in Kaywoodie production. Yello-Bole's were manufactured by Penacook, New Hampshire subsidiary, The New England Briar Pipe Company. Advertising from the 1940's, pictures the Yello-Bole &quot;Honey Girl&quot; and urges the pipe smoker to smoke the pipe with &quot;a little honey in every bowl.&quot; Honey was an ingredient of the material used to line the inside of the bowl. It was said to provide a faster, sweeter break-in of the pipe.<br />
<br />
Reiss-Premier Pipe Co. was also a pipe making concern that was part of the Kaywoodie organization. Pipes made by this company had the pipes name stamped inside an elongated diamond on the shank of the pipe. KBB, Kaywoodie and Reiss-Premier were all located in the West New York manufacturing plant. Rudolph Hirsch, the first president of The Kaywoodie Company from 1936 until at least 1950, was also president of Kaufman Brother's &amp; Bondy when Kaywoodie was formed and was a vice president of Reiss-Premier.<br />
<br />
During World War II, getting briar imported into this country was not easy. Italian and French briar couldn't be had until very late in the war. Kaywoodie was able to import 1400 5-gross bags of briar (about 1,000,000 blocks) out of North Africa in 1943 after the German army was defeated there. Early in 1941, Kaywoodie embarked on a project of domestically grown briar wood, called Mission Briar or manzanita. This wood is botanically the same as Mediterranean briar. The Pacific Briarwood Company, a KBB subsidiary, began harvesting the burl type wood growing on the slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains of California. However, the smoking characteristics were not quite as good and the project was abandoned after the war. After the war, pipe production returned to new heights with many new pipe smokers coming out of the armed services.<br />
<br />
=== Kaywoodie, Yello-Bole bought by S. M. Frank ===<br />
In March of 1955, S. M. Frank &amp; Co., Inc., headquarter at 133 Fifth Avenue, New York, with manufacturing facilities located in the Richmond Hill section of Queens in New York City, completed the purchase of The Kaywoodie Company, Kaufman Brothers &amp; Bondy, Reiss-Premier Corp. and The New England Briar Pipe Co. There are a few years prior to this that things are a little fuzzy. It is thought that aforementioned companies were purchased by another company in 1952. The name of this company is not known by us. This interim owner was not a pipemaker and after only 3 years was looking for a buyer. When this unknown company bought Kaywoodie in 1952, the Rockefeller Center corporate office was closed and moved to the West New York plant. Sam Frank Jr. was put in charge of Manufacturing and Purchasing of the newly acquired West New York facility. (Later in 1964, he would be elected President and Chief Executive of S. M. Frank. In 1968 he assumed and was later elected Chairman of the Board, replacing Herbert Schloss, who passed away in January of '68 after 60 years of employment with S. M. Frank.)<br />
<br />
In 1956, S. M. Frank purchased the New Jersey Briar Pipe Co., a pipemaker that produced mainly closeout and promotional pipes as well as private label. This company continued as a subsidiary until December 31, 1972.<br />
<br />
In 1957, S. M. Frank formed Medico Pipes (Canada) Ltd, to distribute Medico products in Canada. Offices were located in Toronto. In December of 1971, the subsidiary was renamed KYM Pipes (Canada) Ltd. and continued distributing all three lines there until it was sold to Brigham Pipes, Ltd. in 1985. Sometime in the early 1960's, another subsidiary was set up in Livorno, Italy called KYM (Europe) Srl. This location still operates today and acts as a warehouse and distribution facility of Medico products in Europe, Africa, and the Mid-East.<br />
<br />
From the time of S. M. Frank's purchase in 1955 until 1972, Kaywoodie and Yello-Bole were run as a separate companies, as divisions of the parent. The Kaywoodie Company was re-named Kaywoodie Pipes, Inc. Through this period, Kaywoodie and Yello-Bole had its own officers, sales force and maintained the production facilities in West New York. In the early 1960's the corporate offices were re-located to S. M. Frank's office at 18 East 54th Street, New York, NY. Medico and DeMuth pipes continued to be made at the Richmond Hill plant. Through the 1960's, demand for S. M. Frank pipes exceeded the available supply. One of the reasons for this was the first two Surgeon General's reports on cigarette smoking and the health dangers. This report also said that if you wanted to smoke, smoke a pipe instead. By the late 1960's, S. M. Frank was looking for larger facilities to house the manufacturing and office space. In 1968, Kaywoodie's sales office moved again, to 745 5th Avenue. This office was only open a few years until the search for a new building was completed.<br />
<br />
In May of 1960, S. M. Frank started a subsidiary company called Heritage Pipes. The Heritage pipes were an upscale line of push bit pipes meant to compliment the Kaywoodie line. Although not hugely successful, Heritage produced some fine pipes that are still in the collections of many pipe smokers. This company was dissolved on December 31, 1971.<br />
<br />
In 1966, S. M. Frank developed a synthetic material called Brylon as a cheaper alternative to briar. The material, a high temperature resin mixed with wood flour, was cheaper than briar, more resistant to cracking, chipping, charring and burnouts. However to some there are some drawbacks, heavier in the mouth, hotter when smoked quickly, and also simply put, &quot;wasn't briar.&quot; Millions of these pipes have been sold in the 3 decades since and continue to be part of the Yello-Bole and Medico lines. Two Brylon lines in Kaywoodie, Marmont and Impulse, were briefly tried and abandoned in the late 80's.<br />
<br />
The Wm. DeMuth Company, met its official end as a subsidiary company in 1972. DeMuth's mainstay pipe, the Wellington continued to be offered in the S. M. Frank catalog until 1976. In the mid-80's, the Wellington made a brief return as a direct to the consumer offer. The Kaywoodie office in London was sold by S. M. Frank in the early 1970's along with the trademark for Kaywoodie in England to Comoy's of London (Cadogan), pipe makers since 1825. Comoy's and The Kaywoodie Co. (US) were 50/50 owners of Kaywoodie (London). Today, Comoy's continues to produce several different styles of London made Kaywoodies.<br />
<br />
In 1972, S. M. Frank constructed a new building to serve as production facility and corporate offices on Horse Block Road, Yapank, Long Island. (Around this time Kaywoodie and S. M. Frank's other pipe brands started appearing in catalogs together.) The new building housed molding equipment for mouthpieces, filter making equipment, briar block inventory and the beginning operations of pipe making; frazing, first selection of the wood's grade, roughing (first sand papering) and second selection. Because pipe making requires a skill that takes years to learn, the finishing operations, from mounting the mouthpiece to the stummel to completion, continued to be done by the workers at the Richmond Hill plant. At this time the production facility in West New York was closed and moved to Richmond Hill.<br />
<br />
The thought was that skilled pipe craftsmen would be trained at Yapank and the finishing operations would gradually be shifted there. Through the 70's the demand for pipes started to fall and as a result, the Yapank plant was closed in 1977 with S. M. Frank temporarily moving all operations back to the Richmond Hill plant.<br />
<br />
=== Recent History ===<br />
[[Image:kaywoodie_anngroup.jpg|thumb|Anniversary Pipes, courtesy [http://www.smfrankcoinc.com/kaywoodie/kwaniv01/anniversary.htm S.M. Frank]]]In 1980, S. M. Frank &amp; Co. moved to its present location in Peekskill, NY, a small city 50 miles north of New York City on the east shore of the Hudson River. With the closure of the Richmond Hill plant in the early 80's, pipes were produced by several Italian pipe makers. The quality of these pipes were not up to our standards and soon this arrangement ceased in favor of a domestic pipemaker, an ex-employee who had started his own pipe business. In 1992, S. M. Frank purchased their domestic supplier to maintain better control of quality and production. All briar Kaywoodie, Yello-Bole, and Medico pipes, as well as private label pipes, are produced at our manufacturing facility in Tampa, Florida. All of S. M. Frank's Brylon pipes are manufactured in Peekskill.<br />
<br />
In September of 1997, S. M. Frank released the &quot;Gold Series&quot; of Kaywoodie pipes, marking the first new release in over a decade. This new series is 8 different finishes with push bit type mouthpieces, without the &quot;drinkless screw attachment&quot; or other metal condensers. The pipes are made of larger, extra quality briar with rubber or lucite mouthpieces. With this addition to the line, Kaywoodie pipes are available in 18 different finishes with about 12 twelve different shapes per finish. Medico is made in 13 finishes, 6 Brylon and 7 briar. Yello-Bole is made in 9 finishes, 5 Brylon and 4 briar. <br />
<br />
=== Summary === <br />
While S. M. Frank and its predecessor's have gone through many changes over the years, the focus has remained, to offer a quality pipe at a price that the average pipe smoker can afford. With pipes that use paper filters, screw mounted metal filaments, aluminum scoops and now just plain push bits, we offer a pipe for all tastes. The pipe market, increasing at a steady rate the past 3-4 years, appears ready for a resurgence even as the tobacco industry seems to be the target of choice among politicians and lawyers. Pipes and cigars, enjoyed primarily in the home or at social smoker's nights, will continue to become a more popular way to enjoy tobacco.<br />
<br />
== Collectors Guide and Offsite Links==<br />
Here is a link to an excellent Kaywoodie Collectors resource, called the COLLECTOR'S GUIDE TO KAYWOODIE PIPES: A Partial Chronology of Kaywoodie Grades, Shapes and Prices (1936 - 1969), by Robert W. Stokes, Ph.D.: [http://chriskeene.com/kwg-toc Kaywoodie Collector Guide]<br />
<br />
Grayfox Online has an excellent Kaywoodie resource page as well as a forum with a lot of Kaywoodie collectors: [http://www.grayfoxonline.com/compendium.html Kaywoodie Compendium]<br />
<br />
[[Image:logoplm.gif]] [http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/logo-kaywoodie.html Kaywoodie's logos and markings] : Clover variations since 1919 and corresponding stampings, all in pics.<br />
<br />
== Contact information ==<br />
'''S. M. Frank &amp; Co. Inc.'''<br />
1000 N. Division Street, <br />
Box 789, Peekskill, NY 10566<br />
Current Keywoodie [http://www.smfrankcoinc.com/kaywoodie/index.htm Website]<br />
Contact: Bill Feuerbach has been extremely helpful to many Kaywoodie collectors.<br />
He can be E-mailed at: mailto:Smokepipes@aol.com<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category: Pipe makers by nationality]]<br />
[[Category: United States]]</div>Olocedex