https://pipedia.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Ypres.bass&feedformat=atomPipedia - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T00:02:37ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.39.6https://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=5385Main Page2008-04-13T15:15:41Z<p>Ypres.bass: /* Czech Republic */ +1</p>
<hr />
<div>The scope of '''''Pipedia''''' will ultimately be defined by its contributors. Our hope in setting it up is that it will become an extensive repository of information on tobacco pipes and their makers. Knowledgeable enthusiasts, collectors, pipe makers, and tobacconists are welcome and encouraged to contribute to Pipedia. Please click the "discussion" tab above if you'd like to dialog with the contributors about the project. Main subsections are now linked in the navigation bar on the left. '''''Pipe smoking is allowed, encouraged, and facilitated on this site.'''''<br />
<br />
[[Image:bradpohlmann5.jpg|right|thumb|316px|Featured Pipe, [[Brad Pohlmann]] Bulldog]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Jeffgracik2.jpg|right|thumb|316px|Featured Pipe, [[Jeff Gracik (J. Alan Pipes)]] Zen Blowfish]]<br />
<br />
== '''Materials and Construction''' ==<br />
The material and shape of a pipe has a profound influence upon the aesthetics and smoking qualities. Tobacco pipes come in many shapes and styles. For an excellent chart showing classic pipe shapes, see the chart by Bill Burney: [http://www.aspipes.org/shapes/shapes.html Pipe Shapes]. To see an excellent chart showing pipe parts along with their names, also by Bill Burney, see [http://www.aspipes.org/parts/parts1.html Pipe Parts]. <br />
<br />
The basis for this section is from the Wikipedia entry [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_pipe_%28tobacco%29 Smoking Pipe (tobacco)].<br />
<br />
'''A Comprehensive list of Pipemaker materials suppliers can be found here''': [http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Pipe_Making#Materials_and_Supplies Materials and Supplies]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Briar ===<br />
[[Image:costello1.gif|thumb|[[Castello]] Old Antiquari GG, courtesy of pipes2smoke.com]]The majority of pipes sold today, whether hand made or machine made, are fashioned from briar. Briar is a particularly good wood for pipe making for a number of reasons. The first and most important is its natural resistance to fire. The second is its inherent ability to absorb moisture. The burl absorbs water in nature to supply the tree in the dry times and likewise will absorb the moisture that is a byproduct of combustion. Briar is cut from the root burl of the heath tree ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tree_heath Erica arborea]), which is native to the rocky and sandy soils of the Mediterranean region. Briar burls are cut into two types of blocks; ebauchon and plateaux. Ebauchon is taken from the heart of the burl while plateaux is taken from the outer part of the burl. While both types of blocks can produce pipes of the highest quality, most artisan pipe makers prefer to use plateaux because of its superior graining.<br />
*[http://pipedia.org/docs/CharacteristicsOfBriar.pdf Characteristics Of Briar] is a very thorough and interesting research paper in .pdf format by G. Tsoumis, N. Kezos, I Fanariotou, E. Voulgaridis, and C. Passialis documenting the various characteristics of briar.<br />
*See, [[My Visit to A Briar Sawmill]], [[What Makes a Good Briar Pipe]], [[The Art of Sandblasting]], and [[Curing]] all excellent articles by R.D. Field. Also see [[100 Year Old Briar?]]<br />
*R.C. Hamlin has also written an interesting article on this subject called [http://www.pipeguy.com/briar_factor.htm The Briar Factor].<br />
*So you think you're a "Briar Afficionado"? This is a short but extremely informative article by [[Rainer Barbi]] available here: [http://www.rdfield.com/Barbi/The_Briar_Saga_1.jpg The Briar Saga Page 1] & [http://www.rdfield.com/Barbi/The_Briar_Saga_2.jpg The Briar Saga Page 2]. <br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Alternative Woods Used For Pipemaking ===<br />
Although briar pipes are by far the most popular, various other woods are also used by pipe makers. See [[Alternative Woods Used For Pipemaking ]] for a list of the many wood types and examples of pipes made with these woods. Many thanks to pipemaker [[Elie]] for suggesting this section. Also see [[Pipes in Other Woods]] an article written for The Collector by [[Tim Fuller]]<br />
----<br />
=== Meerschaum ===<br />
[[Image:Meerschaum.jpg|right|thumb|Meerschaum Pipes]]<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meerschaum Meerschaum] (hydrated magnesium silicate), a mineral found in small shallow deposits mainly around the city of Eskişehir in central Turkey, is prized for its plasticity which allows it to be carved into many decorative and figural shapes. It was used as early as the 17th century in Turkey in the production of various utilitarian articles, but the first use as a pipe was not earlier than, according to translated documents, about 1725-1750. Along with clay, meerschaum represented the other common medium for pipes before the introduction of briar as the material of choice in the mid-19th century. See [[Antique Meerschaum Pipes]].<br />
<br />
The word "meerschaum" means "sea foam" in German, alluding to its natural white color and its surprisingly low weight. Meerschaum is a very porous mineral that absorbs elements of the tobacco during the smoking process, and gradually changes color to a golden brown. Old, well-smoked meerschaum pipes are prized for their distinctive coloring. <br />
<br />
In selecting a meerschaum pipe it is advisable to determine if the pipe is indeed carved from a block of meerschaum, and is not made from meerschaum dust collected after carving and mixed with an emulsifier then pressed into a pipe shape. These products are not absorbent, do not color, and lack the smoking quality of the block carved pipe. It is not always obvious. Some collectors believe that some pipes marked "solid block meerschaum" may not be genuine. With no uniform grading authority, it is difficult to be sure in the case of an unknown maker, unless you are purchasing it from a trusted, well informed tobacconist. Be wary of inexpensive pipes from untrusted sources. Also look for the quality of the carving. Better carvers are unlikely to waste time carving composite meerschaum.<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Clay ===<br />
[[Image:pollockclaypipes1.jpg|thumb|right|75pxl|Fox & Grapes, [[Pollock Clay Pipes]]]] Clay in this case is almost always a very fine white clay. Low-quality "clay" pipes are actually made from porcelain forming techniques known as slip, and poured into a mold. These are porous, of very low quality, and impart unwanted flavors to a smoke. Top-notch clays, on the other hand are made in a labor-intensive process that requires beating all air out of the clay, hand-rolling each pipe before molding it, piercing with a fine wire, and careful firing. Traditionally, clay pipes are un-glazed. Clays burn "hot" in comparison to other types of pipes, so they are often difficult for most pipe-smokers to use. Their proponents claim that, unlike other materials, a well-made clay pipe gives a "pure" smoke, with no flavor addition from the pipe bowl. In addition to aficionados, reproductions of historical clay styles are used by some Historical re-enactors. Clay pipes were once considered disposable items and the large quantities discarded in the past are often used as an aid in dating by industrial archaeologists.<br />
<br />
'''For additional information see, [[A Short History Of Clay Pipes]], by Heather Coleman'''<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Calabash ===<br />
[[Image:Gourd09_Right.JPG|right|thumb|Calabash Gourd Pipe With Meerschaum Bowl Insert & Removable Bamboo Stem Extension Courtesy of Frank]]<br />
Calabash gourds (usually with meerschaum or porcelain bowls set inside them) have long made prized pipes, but they are labour-intensive and nowadays quite expensive. Because of this expense, pipes with bodies made of wood (usually mahogany) instead of gourd, but the same classic shape are sold as calabashes. Both wood and gourd pipes are functionally the same. They both have an air chamber beneath the bowl which serves to cool, dry, and mellow the smoke. There are also briar pipes being sold as calabashes. These typically do not have an air chamber and are named only because of their external shape.<br />
<br />
The construction of a calabash pipe generally consists of a downward curve that ends with an upcurve where the bowl sits. This low center of gravity allows for the user to easily hold the pipe by the mouth alone, leaving his hands free. This advantage was often used by actors who wanted to depict their character smoking while permitting them to do other business simultaneously. That is why the character Sherlock Holmes, who never used this kind of pipe in the stories, is stereotypically depicted as favoring it because early dramatic productions, especially those starring William Gillette and Basil Rathbone, made this artistic decision. In fact, Holmes, who preferred very harsh tobacco, would probably have disliked the calabash because of the above-mentioned mellowing effect.<br />
<br />
Gourds specifically intended for pipemaking are usually "hand trained" while they are still green & growing. Every few days, after the fruit has begun to develop, the grower will bend the "neck" of the gourd, until it has formed into a near semi-circle. These are mainly grown in South Africa.<br />
<br />
Family: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cucurbitaceae Cucurbitaceae] (koo-ker-bih-TAY-see-ay);<br />
Genus: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagenaria Lagenaria] (lag-en-AR-ee-uh);<br />
Species: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calabash Siceraria] (sy-ker-AR-ee-uh); <br />
Cultivar: Dipper(?)<br />
<br />
'''Calabash Interpretations''': Also popular with some collectors are Calabash shaped briar pipes, or Calabash interpretations. Fred Heim has written an interesting article on collecting these called [[Calabash, Calabash, Wherefore Art Thou Calabash?]], The Genesis of a Collecting Motif By Fred Heim, with photography by Joe Harb.<br />
----<br />
<br />
===Corncob===<br />
[[Image:Corncob.jpg|thumb|left|Corncob Pipes]][[Image:MacArthur_corncob.jpg|thumb|right|Gen. MacArthur]]<br />
On the other end of the scale, "corncob" pipes made from maize cobs are cheap and effective, even if some regard them as inelegant. The cobs are first dried for two years. Then they are hollowed out to make a bowl shape. The bowls are dipped in a plaster-based mixture and varnished or lacquered on the outside. Shanks made from pine wood are then inserted into the bowls. The first and largest manufacturer of corncob pipes is [[Missouri Meerschaum]], located in Washington, Missouri in the United States.[http://www.corncobpipe.com/]. Missouri Meerschaum has produced the pipes since 1869. General Douglas MacArthur and George Lincoln Rockwell were perhaps the most famous smokers of this type of pipe, along with the cartoon characters Popeye and Frosty the Snowman.<br />
<br />
Corncob pipes remain popular today because they are inexpensive and require no "break-in" period like briar pipes. For these two reasons, corncob pipes are often recommended as a "Beginners pipe." But, their enjoyment is by no means limited to beginners. Corncob pipes are equally valued by both learners, and experienced smokers who simply desire a cool, clean smoke. Pipesmokers who wish to sample a wide variety of different tobaccos and blends also might keep a stock of corncobs on hand to permit them to try new flavors without "carryover" from an already-used pipe, or to keep a potentially bad tasting tobacco from adding its flavor to a more expensive or favored pipe.<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Metal Pipes ===<br />
[[Image:Metal Pipe.jpg|left|thumb|<center>Image Courtesy Tony Pringle of Smoking Metal</center>]]<br />
[[Image:Shillelagh-Pidedia.jpg|right|thumb|<center>Vintage Falcon Shillelagh Pipe (Manufactured Ca. 1968)<br> Image Courtesy K. A. Worth</center>]]<br />
An excellent website devoted to metal pipes: [http://www.smokingmetal.co.uk/ Smoking Metal].<br><br />
Includes various Falcon aluminum-stem pipes, plus Kirsten, Yello Bole, Dr. Grabow (Viking) and many others.<br />
<br />
<br />
An interesting book on the subject: Back From The Ashes, Uncovering The Lost History Of G. L. Hunt and the Falcon Pipe, by K. A. Worth ~ Winner, 2008 Illinois Historical Society Book Award. Available from the author: [http://www.worthyworkspress.com/ Worthy Works Press] and at Amazon: [http://www.amazon.com/Back-Ashes-Uncovering-History-Falcon/dp/0979410606/ref=sr_1_1/002-1582897-2834440?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1192470591&sr=8-1 Amazon.com.] For more info. see [[Books/Publications]] page...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Build your own custom Kirsten Metal Pipe at [http://www.kirstenpipe.com/customize.shtml Kirsten Pipe Company]<br />
<br />
[[Kirsten Pipe Company]] - An article by Dave Whitney<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
== '''Pipe makers by location''' ==<br />
It would be great to see an overview of the history of pipe making in each region. Please feel free to contribute information to the individual sections. Many of the pipe makers still need bios or additional information and pictures (just click on them, and then select the Edit tab to add any information you have). Feel free to add other pipe makers you've a particular interest in or knowledge of. Please let me know if you need any help managing the wiki: mailto:sethile.pipes@gmail.com<br />
<br />
We use the term '''''Broken Pipe''''' coined by Tom Dunn, and also used by Jan Andersson, to denote Pipe Makers who have passed on.<br />
----<br />
=== Argentina ===<br />
[[Image:Argentina.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Bambi Pipes]] (Gustavo Miguel Gonzalez) | [[D'Capo]] (Pablo Minotti & Diego Docetti) | [[Luigi Pipes]] (Luis Arbotto) | [[Pablo A. Piombo]] (Pipas Piombo)<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Austria ===<br />
[[Image:Austria.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Andreas BAUER]] (Meerschaum) | [[Edward CZERNY]] (Edward's Pipes) | [[Karl HARKAM]] | [[Karl HUML]] | [[KEMPERLING]] | [[Hans KRENN]] | [[Josef LENZ]] | [[Pfeifendesign LORENZ - Ludwig Lorenz]] | [[Peter Matzhold]] | [[Josef Prammer]] | [[Patrick RUTKA]] (1. Ottakringer Pfeifenmanufaktur) | [[Martin Steinthaler]] (Tine Pipes) | [[Christoph STIEGLER]] | [[STRAMBACH]] (Meerschaum) | [[David Wagner]] (baff Tabakpfeifenunikate)<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Canada ===<br />
[[Image:Canada.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Robert Blatter]] | [[Wolfgang Blazejewski (Pipes by Wolfgang)]] | [[Brigham Pipes]] | [[John Calich]] (J.Calich) | [[Cats Paw Pipes]] (Bill & Terri Weist) | [[Stephen Downie]] | [[MacQueen Pipes]] | [[Colm Magner]] | [[Michael Parks]] | [[John Rocheleau]] | [[Stefan Seles]] | [[Phillip Trypis]] | [[Julius Vesz]]<br />
<br />
Canadian pipe making is very individual. Some styles are very traditional, showing definite Old World roots, while others are heavily influenced by the Danish freehand movement.<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Czech Republic ===<br />
[[Image:Czech.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Pavel Háp]] | [[Roman Herzog]] (unconfirmed!) | [[Pavel Hodula]] | [[Oldřich Jirsa]] | [[Jan Klouček - JanPipes]] | [[Karel Krška]] | [[Pearl Bee]] | [[Martin Vlasak]] (now Australia) | [[Jiří Zapletal ]](ZapletalART)<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Denmark ===<br />
[[Image:Denmark.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''Danish pipe makers (alphabetical by last name)'''<br />
<br />
'''A-B:''' <br />
[[Aalbørg]] | [[Finn Meyan Andersen]] | [[Mr. Andersen]] | [[Søren Eric Andersen]] | [[Anne Julie]] | [[Antique]] | [[Kurt Balleby]] | [[S. Bang]] (Per Hansen & Ulf Noltensmeier) | [[Knud Bech]] | [[Benner]] | [[K. Bertran]] | [[BMH]] | [[Leo Børgart]] | [[Peter Brakner]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Hans Brandt]]<br />
<br />
'''C-G:''' <br />
[[Svend Axel Celius]] | [[Champ of Denmark]] | [[Emil Chonowitsch]] | [[Jess Chonowitsch]] | [[Lars Christensen]] | [[Crown]] | [[Danbark]] | [[Danish Sovereign]] | [[Danmore]] | [[Danske Club]] | [[Dantonian Pipe Works]] | [[Dybsø]] | [[Sven Egholm]] | [[Tom Eltang]] | [[Eminent]] | [[Eriksen]] | [[Former]] | [[Nils Frederiksen]] | [[Ingo Garbe]] <br />
<br />
'''H:''' <br />
[[Jan Hansen]] | [[Kurt Balleby Hansen]] | [[Per Hansen]] (S. Bang) | [[Poul Hansen]] | [[Hans Hartmann]] | [[Peter Hedegaard]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Peter Heding]] | [[Peter Heeschen]] | [[Gert Holbek]] | [[Preben Holm]] (Broken Pipe) (needs more editing) | [[Jens Holmgaard]] (Broken Pipe) | [[P. Holtorp]]<br />
<br />
'''I-J:''' <br />
[[Poul Ilsted]] | [[Lars Ivarsson]] | [[Nanna Ivarsson]] | [[Sixten Ivarsson]] (Broken Pipe, Sweden/Denmark) | [[Georg Jensen]] | [[Peder Christian Jeppesen]] (Neerup) | [[Jesper of Danmark]] | [[Mogens Johansen]] (Johs) | [[Benni Jørgensen]] | [[H.A. Jørgensen]] | [[Lasse Skovgaard]] Jørgensen |<br />
<br />
'''K-M:'''<br />
[[Karl Erik]] | [[Kong Christian]] | [[Teddy Knudsen]] | [[Sven Knudsen]] | [[Johan Kock]] | [[Kriswill]] | [[KS Piben]] | [[Largo]] | [[Lars of Denmark]] | [[Else Larsen]] | [[Jørgen Larsen]] | [[Jørn Larsen]] | [[W.Ø. Larsen]] | [[Ib Loran]] | [[Mathiasen]] | [[Jørn Micke]]<br />
<br />
'''N:''' <br />
[[Neerup]] | [[Bent Nielsen]] | [[Bjarne Nielsen]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Erik Nielsen]] | [[Hans Nielsen]] | [[Ivan Holst Nielsen]] | [[Jens Tao Nielsen]] | [[Jørgen Nielsen]] | [[Kai Nielsen]] | [[Tonni Nielsen]] (Denmark/United States) | [[Viggo Nielsen]] | [[Ulf Noltensmeier]] (S. Bang) | [[Erik Nørding]]<br />
<br />
'''O-S:''' <br />
[[Karl Kristian Olsen]] (Outrup Pibeservice) | [[Poul Olsen]] | [[Ib Olson]] | [[Karl Erik Ottendahl]] (Karl Erik) | [[P.U.G.]] | [[Partout]] | [[Flemming Petersen]] | [[Anne Julie Rasmussen]] | [[John E. Rasmussen]] | [[Kent Rasmussen]] | [[Poul Rasmussen]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Søren Refbjerg Rasmussen]] | [[Red Hat Pipes]] (Kjeld Sørensen) | [[Manduela Riger-Kusk]] | [[Soborg]] | [[Kjeld Sørensen]] (Red Hat Pipes) | [[Stanwell]]<br />
<br />
'''T-Z:'''<br />
[[Tao]] | [[Karsten Tarp]] | [[Helmer Thomsen]] | [[Bjørn Thurmann]] | [[Arne Urup]] | [[Ph. Vigen]] | [[Ole Walther]] (Walther Pipes) | [[Poul Winslow]] | [[York Deluxe]]<br />
<br />
We highly recommend the following article on the history of Danish pipe making by [http://www.scandpipes.com/main/history.html Jakob Groth]. More Pipe maker articles coming soon to this section. Those in red still need articles. Please dive in if you'd like to help. Very thankfully there exists an excellent site dedicated to Scandinavian pipe makers. We highly recommend [http://danishpipemakers.com/ danishpipemakers.com]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== France ===<br />
[[Image:France.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Alain Albuisson]] | [[Chacom]] (Bayard) | [[Butz-Choquin]] (Claude Romain) | [[Charles Courrieu]] | [[David Enrique]] (needs more editing) | [[EWA]] (was Waille) | [[Jeantet]] | [[Paul Lanier]] | [[Pascal Piazzolla]] | [[Bernard Reybier]] | [[Ropp]] | [[Trever Talbert]] (France/United States) | [[Roger Vincent]] | [[Vuillard]] | [[Melan Pipe]]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Germany ===<br />
[[Image:Germany.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''A-D:''' [[Reiner Apelt (Baiano)]] | [[Frank Axmacher]] | [[Rainer Barbi]] | [[Hasso Baudis]] | [[Paul Becker]] | [[Wolfgang Becker]] | [[Volker Bier]] | [[Klaus-Dieter Billerbeck]] | [[Reiner Thilo Bindschädel]] | [[Max Brandt]] | [[Oliver Brandt]] | [[Andreas Bricks]] | [[Werner Bürmann]] | [[Oliver Camphausen]] | [[db - Design Berlin]] | [[Ken Dederichs]] (Ken Pipes) | [[Dobbelmann]]<br />
<br />
'''E-K:''' [[Horst Fuchs]] | [[Norbert Gerharz]] | [[Axel Glasner]] | [[Holger Haettich (Hh-Pipes)]] | [[Klaus Hahn]] | [[Volker Hahn]] | [[Klaus Hedwig]] | [[Hermann Hennen]] | [[Gerrit Heyl]] | [[Olaf Höppe (Olis Pfeifen)]] | [[Jarugski]] | [[Werner Johst]] | [[Uwe Jopp]] | [[Karl-Heinz Joura]] | [[Günter Kittner]] | [[Peter Klein]] | [[Reiner Klein]] <br />
<br />
'''L-Q:''' [[Olaf Langner]] | [[Peter Lehmann]] | [[Cornelius Mänz]] | [[Tom Richard Mehret]] | [[Ivan Melich]] | [[Achim Menzel]] (Tortuga Babes) | [[Robert Mewis]] | [[Markus Meyer (MM Pfeifen-Design)]] | [[Jürgen Moritz]] | [[Werner Mummert]] | [[Heiner Nonnenbroich (hn handmade pipes)]] | [[Hans Günter Noske]] | [[Oldenkott]] | [[Otto Pollner]] (broken pipe) | [[Gerhart Priewe]] | [[Andreas Püttmann]] | <br />
<br />
'''R-Z:''' [[Axel Reichert ]] | [[Pit Rohrbach]] | [[Bertram Safferling]] | [[Julian Schäfer (JULS)]] | [[Jürgen Schmitt (JÜSCH-Pipes)]] | [[Roland Schwarz]] (Roland-Briars) | [[Jan Harry Seiffert]] | [[Manuel Shaabi]] (Ex Lebanon) | [[Bernd Sticklun]] | [[Eckhard Stöhr]] | [[Frank Stollenwerk (Frank-Pfeifen)]] | [[Karl-Heinz Syring]] | [[Nils Thomsen]] | [[VAUEN]] | [[Reinhardt Volz]] | [[René Wähner]] | [[Roger Wallenstein]] | [[Fritz Weller]] | [[Gerhard Wilhelm]] | [[Hans Wormit (snahti)]]<br />
<br />
More pipe maker articles coming soon. There exists an excellent site dedicated to German pipe makers. We highly recommend [http://www.german-pipemakers.de/index.html German Pipemakers]<br />
<br />
'''German resources:'''<br />
<br />
*'''Berlin Tobacco College''': The Berlin Tobacco College is open to the public and meets Thursday evenings at 8:00 in a local Berlin cafe. Sharing ideas, experiences, and good tobacco, the Berlin Tobacco College members welcome anyone interested in pipe smoking. In addition to pipe club evenings, the Berlin Tobacco College organizes the Berlin Pipe show and participates in the annual Berlin Christmas Charity event organized by Frank Zander. [http://www.tabakskollegium-berlin.de Website] <br />
<br />
*'''East German Pipe Smokers Association''': Under the Direction of the German Pipe Smokers Association, we are working in conjunction with other pipe clubs to build the East German Pipe Smokers Association. [http://www.vdp-ost.de Website] <br />
<br />
*'''Support of d.a.f.t home page''': [[Nils Thomsen]] Pipes is an active member and supporter of the d.a.f.t home page and forum. [http://www.daft.de Website] <br />
<br />
*'''Pipe Making Workshop''': On Saturdays it is possible to spend the day making your own pipe form start to finish. The day begins at 10:00 a.m. with a coffee and a Briar block and ends in the evening in a cafe and your finished self-made pipe. These appointments are typically one to one and do not require previous wood-working experience. Participants pay approximately 200.00 € which includes the material. [http://www.tabakskollegium-berlin.de/discus/messages/124/1838.html?1162731393 Website] <br />
<br />
*'''Pipe smoking class for beginners''': Every second Thursday evening of each month at 7:00 in the store, you are invited to join a beginners class in pipe smoking. [http://www.tabakskollegium-berlin.de/discus/messages/123/2519.html?1164265867 Website] <br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Great Britain ===<br />
[[Image:UNK.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''A - K:''' [[Abbey Pipes]] | [[Ashton]] | [[Astley's]] | [[Barling]] | [[BBB]] (Blumfeld’s Best Briar, formerly A. Frankau) | [[Ben Wade]] | [[Blakemar Briars]] (Michael Billington) | [[Castleford]] | [[Charatan]] | [[Comoy's]] of London | [[Duncan Briars]] | [[Dunhill]] | [[Ferndown]] (L. & J.S. Briars) (Ellwood) | [[GBD]] | [[Hardcastle]] (became Parker-Hardcastle) | <br />
<br />
'''L - Z:''' [[Larrysson Pipes]] (Paul Hubarrt) | [[Loewe & Co.]] | [[London Castle Pipes]] (G. Huybrecht) | [[Masta Patent Pipe Company]] | [[Millville]] (Dennis and John Marshall) | [[Parker]] | [[Sasieni]] | [[Upshall]] (also makes Tilshead)| [[Ian Walker (Northern Briar Pipes)]] | <br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Italy ===<br />
[[Image:Italy.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''A-B:''' [[Lorenzo Airaghi (Dino da Campione)]] (broken pipe) | [[Amorelli]] (Salvatore Amorelli) | [[Ardor]] | [[Armellini]] | [[Ascorti]] | [[Alberto Bonfiglioli]] | [[Baldo Baldi]] | [[Bartoli]] | [[Fritz Becker]] (broken pipe) | [[Paolo Becker]] | [[Brebbia]]<br />
<br />
'''C-F:''' [[Calabria Pipe]] | [[Caminetto]] | [[Cassano Pipes]] (Ceresa) | [[Castello]] | [[Claudio Cavicchi]] | [[Luciano Cerrato]] | [[Cesare]] | [[Corrado]] | [[Gabriele Dal Fiume]] (DG Pipe) | [[Del Grano]] | [[Don Carlos]] | [[Enricoro]] (Enrico Marola) | [[Fe-Ro]] | [[Funambolo]] (Federico Giorio) <br />
<br />
'''G-L:''' [[Gasparini]] | [[Mauro Gilli]] | [[Hully Briars]] | [[Il Ceppo]] | [[Il Duca Pipe]] (Massimiliano Rimensi) | [[Tonino Jacono]] | [[L'Anatra]] | [[La Bitta]] (Armando Fumia) | [[Fabio La Rocca]] | [[Le Nuvole]] (Maurizio Tombari) | [[Lorenzetti]] | [[Lorenzo]] (Lorenzo Tagliabue, formerly Fratelli Lana)<br />
<br />
'''M-Q:''' [[Mastro Beraldi]] | [[Mastro de Paja]] | [[Giorgio Micheli]] | [[Moretti]] | [[Roberto Nava]] | [[Papalia]] | [[Al Pascià]] | [[Enrico Passoni]] | [[Pipa Croci]]<br />
<br />
'''R-Z:''' [[Radice]] | [[Richichi]] | [[Rinaldo]] | [[Domenico Romeo]] | [[Rossi]] | [[Stefano Santambrogio]] | [[Savinelli]] | [[Ser Jacopo]] | [[Tommaso Spanu]] | [[Cesare Talamona]] | [[Vascello]] (Francesco Di Mento) | [[Aldo Velani]] | [[Luigi Viprati]]<br />
<br />
'''Italian Miscellanous''' (Seconds, thirds, discontinued and liquidated brands): [[IM A-K]] | [[IM L-Z]] <br />
<br />
More pipe maker articles coming soon. Very thankfully there exists an excellent site dedicated to Italian pipe makers. We highly recommend [http://www.italianpipemakers.com/inglese/Frameset-1gb.htm italianpipemakers.com]<br />
<br />
*See [[A Short History of The Italian Handmade Pipe]], by R.D.Field for an interesting article on the Castello, Caminetto, and Ascorti connection.<br />
<br />
*See [[Thoughts on Italian Pipes]] - Sykes Wilford's musings on Italian pipe design.<br />
<br />
*Pipe making courses by '''[[Bertram Safferling]]'''. For info see [http://www.freehand.de/pipemaking_courses_and_seminars_01.html Safferling]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Japan ===<br />
[[Image:Japan.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Shizuo Arita]] | [[Takeo Arita]] (needs more editing)| [[Tsutomu Fukashiro]] | [[Kei'Ichi Gotoh]] | [[Seiji Hachiro]] | [[Jun'ichiro Higuchi]] | [[Ichi Kitahara]] | [[saci]] (Yukio Okamura) | [[Kenichiro Sakurai]] | [[Smio Satou]] | [[Hiroyuki Tokutomi]] | [[Yuki Tokutomi]] | [[Tsuge]]<br />
<br />
*See [[Beyond Tsuge]] - Martin Ferrent interviews Sykes Wilford about Japanese pipes, originally published at [http://www.pfeifenbox.de PFEIFENBOX]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Poland ===<br />
[[Image:Poland.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Bartlomiej Antoniewski]] | [[Artur & Mariusz Bednarczyk]] (B&B) | [[Zbigniew Bednarczyk]] (BRÓG) | [[Ryszard Filar]] | [[Robert Gruszczynski]] (Rogrus) | [[Ryszard Kulpinski]] | [[Marek Parol]] | [[Tadeusz Poliński]] | [[Henryk Worobiec]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Russia ===<br />
[[Image:Russia.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Sergey Ailarov]] | [[Sergey Dyomin]] | [[Alexey Fyodorov]] | [[Vladimir Grechukhin]] | [[Valentin Kiselyov]] | [[Alexey Kharlamov]] | [[Evgeniy Lushin]] (Eugeni Looshin) | [[Misha Revyagin (Mr. Pipes)]] | [[Alexandr Saharov]] | [[Viktor Yashtylov]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== South Africa ===<br />
[[Image:SAF.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Ebenhart Botha]] (Ebenhart's Handmade Pipes) | [[Leon du Preez]] | [[JOBERT]] (Johan Slabbert)<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Spain ===<br />
[[Image:Spain.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Segimon Baulenas]] (Pipas Sigmund) | [[Bruken]] | [[Rafa Martín]] (Pipes Martin) | [[Jean P. Soler]] | [[Joan Saladich]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Sweden ===<br />
[[Image:Sweden.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''Swedish pipe makers (Alphabetical by last name)'''<br />
<br />
[[Björn Bengtsson]] | [[Bengt Carlson]] | [[Love Geiger]] | [[Gurra - Lars-Göran Markunger]] | [[Sixten Ivarsson]] (Broken Pipe) (Sweden/Denmark) | [[Arne Ljung]] | [[Bo Nordh]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Dura Semjaniv]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Ronny Thunér]] | [[Vollmer & Nilsson]]<br />
<br />
Although much deserved credit has been given to Danish pipemakers & the "Danish Freehand" style, a lot of credit has to go to a handful of brilliant and innovative Swedish pipemakers, not the least of whom were '''[[Sixten Ivarsson]]''' & '''[[Bo Nordh]]''' (may they smoke & rest in peace).<br />
<br />
More pipe maker articles coming soon. Very thankfully there exists an excellent site dedicated to Swedish pipe makers. We highly recommend [http://www.svenskapipklubben.se/default.asp?lang=4 Svenska Pipklubben] (Swedish Pipe Club) and extend many thanks to '''Jan Andersson''', club secretary (and pipe smoker, of course).<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Switzerland ===<br />
[[Image:Switzerland.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Bru-Bu]] (Brunner & Buhofer) | [[Stefan CAPAUL]] (La Pipa) | [[DAVIDOFF]] | [[Peter EGLOFF]] | [[Peter FISCHER]] | [[Thomas HABERMACHER]] (Tom’s Pipe-Line) | [[ Paul J. HEINZER]] (Innerschwyzer-Pfeifen) | [[Daniel JUD]] | [[Franz von MATT]] | [[Roman PETER]] | [[Wolfgang RÖLLIN]] (WR Freehand Pipes) | [[STICH]] (Drechslerei Stich AG) | [[Moritz TSCHAN]] | [[WAGNER Pipes]] | [[WAGNER Tabak-Lädeli]] <br />
<br />
We urgently need '''Helvetians''' (Swiss) to contribute info for the above pipemakers.<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Ukraine ===<br />
[[Image:Ukraine.jpg|30px]]<br />
<br />
[[Golden Gate]] | [[Alexander Ponomarchuk]] | [[Konstantin Shekita]] | [[Valeriy Rizhenko]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== United States ===<br />
[[Image:USA.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''A - B:'''<br />
[[P. A. Anderson]] | [[Scott Anderson]] | [[Stephen & Roswitha Anderson]] | [[E. Andrews]] (Ed Jurkiewicz) | [[Anima pipes]] (Brian McNulty)| [[Tom Bahder]] (Renaissance Pipes) | [[Al Baier]] | [[Bertram]] (Washington, DC) | [[GM Pipes]] (Gregg M. Bloom) | [[Bolas De Fuego]] | [[Paul Bonaquisti]] | [[Kirk Bosi]] | [[J.M. Boswell]] | [[Bill Braddock]] (Art That Smokes) | [[Briar Art]] (Brian Ruthenberg) | [[Mike Brissett]] | [[Ed Burak]] | [[Mike Butera]] |<br />
<br />
'''C - D:'''<br />
[[W. Cannoy]] | [[Dominic Cazzetta]] | [[Cellini]] | [[Premal Chheda]] | [[Darius (Christian) Dah]] (GRC Pipes) | [[Eric Christie]] | [[Robert Cipolla]] | [[Bill Collins]] (Jost) | [[Chris Clark]] | [[Greg Clemons]] | [[R.A. Clewell]] | [[Larry E. Comeaux]] | [[Joe Cortigiano]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Russ Cook]] | [[Tom Cook]] | [[J.T. Cooke]] | [[Joseph Crable]] | [[John Crosby]] | [[Custom-Bilt]] (needs photos) | [[Jody Davis (J. Davis)]] | [[Rad Davis]] | [[Horace DeJarnett]] | [[John Dengler]] | [[James DePrey]] | [[William Demuth Company]] (WDC) (see also [[S. M. Frank & Co. Inc.]]) | [[Fred Diebel]] | [[Diane Doerr]] | [[Dr. Grabow]]<br />
<br />
'''E - H:'''<br />
[[John Eells]] | [[Skip Elliott]] | [[Lee von Erck]] | [[Ron Fairchild]] | [[Michael Fauscette]] (Delta Pipes) | [[Tony Fillenwarth]] | [[(House of) Fischer]] | [[Alex Florov]] (Ex Russia) | [[Wally Frank]] | [[Mike Frey]] | [[Don Fuhr]] | [[Tim Fuller]] | [[Frederick Garlinghouse]] (Frederick G Pipes) (Broken Pipe) | [[Robert Gebbie]] (R.G.Freehand) | [[Ralph T. Gibson (Okie Pipes)]] | [[Andrew Glamp]] | [[Jeff Gracik (J. Alan Pipes)]] | [[Gray Mountain Pipes]] (Mark Gradberg) | [[Jake Hackert]] | [[Jack Hamburg Jr. (Jack's Handmade Pipes)]] | [[Jaden Hew Len (Hew Len Pipes)]] | [[Paul Hildebrand]] | [[Jack Howell]] | [[Hudson Universal Pipe Co.]] | [[Kurt Huhn]] <br />
<br />
'''I - K:'''<br />
[[Ideal Mfg.]] | [[Imperati]] | [[Leo Irrera]] | [[Michael Jacobson-Hardy]] | [[Jelling]] | [[Jorg Jemelka]] | [[David Johnson]] (Ozark Mountain Briars) | [[Richard C. Johnson]] | [[Stephen Johnson]] (Alpine Briars) | [[Steve Johnson]] | [[Todd Johnson]] (STOA Briars) | [[Tom Johnson]] (Luna Pipes] | [[David Jones]] (Regency) | [[Yern "Bo" Jorgenson]] | [[Ed Jurkiewicz]] (E. Andrews) | ([[Michael Kabik]] | [[Mitch Kaufman]] | [[Kaywoodie]] (KBB, Currently made by [[S. M. Frank & Co. Inc.]]) | [[Kim Kendall]] (Penguin Briar) | [[Bob Kiess]] | [[Kirsten Pipe Company]] (Metal Pipes) | [[J. Andrew Kovacs]] (Jandrew) |<br />
<br />
'''L - M:'''<br />
[[Tyler Lane]] | [[Samuel Learned]] | [[Henry Leonard & Thomas Inc.]] | [[LHS]] (L & H Stern Pipe Making Company) (needs editing & photos)| [[Michael Lindner]] | [[M. Linkman & Co.]] | [[Loscalzo Pipes (Pipes by CAL)]] | [[Luna Pipes]] (Tom Johnson) | [[Brian McNulty]] (Anima) | [[Marchetti Pipes]] | [[James Margroum]] (Mr.Groum) | [[Joe Mariner]] | [[Andrew Marks]] | [[Marxman]] | [[Mastercraft]] | [[Medico]] ([[S. M. Frank & Co. Inc.]]) | [[Tracy Mincer]] | [[Jeremiah W. Montgomery]] | [[John Murado]] | <br />
<br />
'''N - P:'''<br />
[[Elliott Nachwalter]] | [[National Briar Pipe Co.]] | [[Rolando Negoita]] (US/ex Romania) | [[Tonni Nielsen]] (Denmark/United States) | [[Owl Shop]] (John Photakis) | [[Ozark Mountain Briars]] ( David Johnson) | [[Scott Parfumi]] | [[Penguin Briar]] (Kim Kendall) | [[Perry White Pipes]] (Bob Swanson) | [[Phoenix Pipes]] (Jason Watkins-Brock) (WATROCK) | [[Brad Pohlmann]] | [[Robert Peretti]] | [[Paul Perri]] | [[Will Purdy]] <br />
<br />
'''Q - T:'''<br />
[[Ryan Quagliata]] | [[Tony Rodriguez]] | [[Curt Rollar]] | [[Larry Roush]] | [[Brian Ruthenberg]] (Briar Art) | [[Bill Shalosky]] | [[Jerry Sands]] | [[R.C. Sands]] | [[Joel Shapiro]] (JS Pipes) | [[Ben Scofield]] | [[Max Schulte]] | [[Joe Skoda]] | [[Denny Souers]] | [[Vic Steinhart]] | [[Alan Stevenson]] | [[Robert Story]] | [[Ken Sturgill]] | [[Bob Swanson]] (Perry White Pipes) | [[Trever Talbert]] (France/United States) | [[Tatum's Workshop]] (Paul Tatum) | [[Scott Thile]] | [[Mark Tinsky]]<br />
<br />
'''U - Z:'''<br />
[[Randolph Ubben]] | [[M.O. Vickers]] | [[Bill Walther]] | [[Robert Ward]] | [[Kerry S. Wathen]] | [[WATROCK]] (Jason Watkins-Brock)(Poenix Pipes) | [[Robert Waughtel]] | [[B.A.Weaver]] | [[Tim West]] | [[Jack H. Weinberger]] | [[Steve Weiner]] (Broken Pipe) | [[Whidbey Islander Pipes]] | [[Randy Wiley]] | [[Yello-Bole]] see also ([[S. M. Frank & Co. Inc.]]) <br />
<br />
'''Amercan Miscellanous''' (Seconds, thirds, discontinued and liquidated brands): [[AM A-K]] | [[AM L-Z]] <br />
<br />
American pipe making is heavily influenced by the European schools, although Asian aesthetics, at least as they play out in pipes, have also become a notable influence. In particular, the Italian, English, and French schools, with their traditional shapes, have formed the basis for the work of many American pipe makers who have pored over collections of old Dunhills, Barlings, GBDs, Costellos, Savinelli's, etc. Many of these shapes were well established by the 1920s. Others are heavily influenced by the makers of Danish high grade pipes, who have likewise been influenced by their mentors, the fathers of the Danish freehand movement of the 1950's and '60s.<br />
<br />
"[[Go West]]" is a fascinating look at high grade American pipe makers from across the pond. Written By: Erwin Van Hove and originally published in the French magazine, Pipe Mag.<br />
<br />
Among other interesting developments in US pipe making has been Sandblasting. Fred Hanna wrote an interesting article for The Pipe Collector called, [[The Best Sandblasted Pipes are Being Made By Americans]], where he writes, "Now and then, someone will point to a particular country, such as Denmark or Italy, and remark upon the quality of their pipe makers as a group. This may be in terms of design, finish, mouthpieces, engineering, or what have you. Let's add another such assessment. I have been watching the quality of sandblasting by Americans for the last couple of years, and I don't think there can be any doubt about it. The best sandblasted pipes OVERALL are now coming out of the USA."<br />
<br />
Suffice it to say that a new generation of American pipe makers have emerged. Many have made the trek to high grade pipe mecca to study with the master carvers. They have brought back an entire school of technique and aesthetic and made it their own. Others combine the traditional and freehand styles in a unique combination. Regardless of their influences, many of these American pipe makers are pursuing pipe making with a tremendous passion and energy, and an individual spirit, not unlike the one that molded the country.<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Others ===<br />
'''Albania:''' [[Tomori]]<br />
<br />
'''Belgium:''' [[Enrico Bocci]] | [[Hilson]]<br />
<br />
'''Bulgaria:''' [[George Boyadjiev (GB Pipes)]] | [[Georgi Todorov - Getz]] <br />
<br />
'''Brazil:''' [[Bertoldi]] <br />
<br />
'''Chile:''' [[Leonardo Herrera]]<br />
<br />
'''China:''' [[Leslie Ng (Gloredo)]] | [[Zhishan & Mindong Pipe]] <br />
<br />
'''Greece:''' [[Alexander Pipes]] (Alexandros Zavvos) | [[Amadeus Pipes]]<br />
<br />
'''Ireland:''' [[Peterson]]<br />
<br />
'''Israel:''' [[Shalom Pipe Factory]]<br />
<br />
'''Malta:''' [[Made in Malta]]<br />
<br />
'''Mexico:''' [[Roberto González González (Pipas de Cochera)]]<br />
<br />
'''Netherlands:''' [[Elbert Gubbels]] (Koninklijke Fabriek van Tabakspijpen / Royal Dutch Pipe Factory; Brands: Amphora, Big Ben, Hilson, Royal Dutch) | [[P.G.C. Hajenius]] | [[Bernard Myburgh (Don Bernard Pipes)]] <br />
<br />
'''New Zealand:''' [[Don Speden]] (now Japan) | [[Jan Zeman]]<br />
<br />
'''Norway:''' [[Bård Hansen (Tabago)]]<br />
<br />
'''Portugal:''' [[Elie]] (also living in Belgium) | [[Joao Reis]]<br />
<br />
'''Romania:''' [[Gabos Costin Iuliu (Gabos Pipes)]]<br />
<br />
'''Slovenia:''' [[Gregor Lobnik]]<br />
<br />
'''Tanzania:''' [[Kiko]]<br />
<br />
'''Uruguay:''' [[Pedro Ferrizzo]]<br />
<br />
== Off site links (related to pipe smoking) ==<br />
<br />
[http://www.bpipaclub.com BPipaClub.com] (La pagina del Barcelona Pipa Club sobre pipas y tabacos más activa para toda la comunidad de habla hispana )<br />
<br />
[http://www.smokersforums.org/ Smokers Forums] (an active international online pipe-smoking community committed to a civil tone)<br />
<br />
[http://pipes.org/ Pipes.org] (lots of great links and a wealth of information)<br />
<br />
[http://www.naspc.org/ NASPC.org] (North American Society of Pipe Collectors)<br />
<br />
[http://www.aspipes.org/ A.S.P] (the web home of alt.smokers.pipes, a very active and interesting newsgroup)<br />
<br />
[http://tobaccoreviews.com/ TobaccoReviews.com] (a fantastic site to research tobaccos you might enjoy)<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_pipe_%28tobacco%29 Smoking pipe (tobacco) article on Wikipedia]<br />
<br />
[http://www.pipemakersforum.com/ PipeMakersForum.com] (Great information on pipe making and fellowship with pipe makers)<br />
<br />
[http://www.faviles.com/phpWiki/index.php/P%E1ginaPrincipal WikiPipa.] Enciclopedia Virtual de la Pipa<br />
<br />
[http://www.faviles.com/la_pipa.htm La Pipa.] La página en castellano sobre la pipa y el tabaco<br />
<br />
[http://grayfoxonline.mywowbb.com/ Gray Fox Online Forum] (General pipe smoking forum with an emphasis on old and new Kaywoodies)<br />
<br />
[http://groups.google.fr/group/Pipes-et-tabacs?hl=fr The French pipes and tobacco discussion group]<br />
<br />
Pipes et tabacs :http://groups.google.fr/group/Pipes-et-tabacs/topics?hl=fr<br />
<br />
[http://groups.google.com/group/FumeursdePipe?hl=fr Groupe Fumeurs de Pipe] (The first French group about pipes, pipe makers, and tobaccos)<br />
<br />
[http://www.fumeursdepipe.net/ Fumeurs de Pipe] (A French site dedicated to pipes, pipe makers, and so on...)<br />
<br />
[http://www.christianpipesmokers.org/ Christian Pipe Smokers] (An active group of pipe smokers that also discuss theology)<br />
<br />
[http://www.scofieldpipes.com/docs/pipetheology.html "Toward a Theology of Pipesmoking,"] (a humorous tract by the Rev. Arthur D. Yunker; permission granted by author)<br />
<br />
[http://www.angelfire.com/folk/cpu/ Club de Pipafumadores Uruguay 2001] (since 2001 - en internet desde el 10/8/2001)<br />
<br />
[http://www.pipeclub.info PipeClub.info] (Russian Speaking Pipesmokers Association)<br />
<br />
[http://www.pipevillage.org/ Pipe Village] (The portal for worldwide Chinese pipe smokers, dealers and makers, since 2001)<br />
<br />
[http://www.fumarelapipa.com/ Fumare La Pipa] (The first and biggest italian website dedicated to pipe, pipesmokers, pipemakers...)</div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Pipe_Tobacco&diff=4119Pipe Tobacco2008-01-07T13:32:42Z<p>Ypres.bass: /* Off sight links */</p>
<hr />
<div>If you have expertise in this area, please consider editing this section, but do not edit the quoted materials. Click on the discussion tab above for additional information. <br />
----<br />
[[Image:leaf.jpg|right|300px]]<br />
[[Image:SobranieWeb.jpg|thumb|300px|Vintage Tin of Balkan Sobranie, Courtesy G.L.Pease]]New to pipe smoking? See also [http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Pipe_Packing_and_Smoking_techniques#How_should_I_select_my_first_tobacco.3F Selecting Your First Tobacco]<br />
<br />
'''The best pipe tobacco may be ahead of us!''' "While some may bemoan the passing of the great blends of yesteryear, or the changing of the hallowed, ancient formula, I personally believe that modern pipe smokers are just now entering a renaissance in pipe tobacco blending, one that promises great things for all fans of the leaf, whether they be active or passive participants in that renaissance." -- Jon Tillman. Read Jon's entire article called, [[Pipe Tobacco Today]]<br />
<br />
"G. L. Pease Tobacco has become the hallmark of the new era of tobacco blending. A boutique producer, Greg Pease takes an artisanal approach to tobacco, evoking days gone by, when the great shops all had a blender on hand. It is obvious when talking with Greg that he is passionate about his vocation and feels a deep connection with tobacco. Read on to see it in his own words." -- Jon Tillman. Read Jon's [[Conversation With Greg Pease]].<br />
== History ==<br />
This section is just a stub for now. If you have expertise in the history of tobacco, please consider clicking [[Tobacco History]] and starting a separate article for us. For now, we highly recommend the following article, "[http://www.stogiefresh.com/journal/Cigar_Journal/Featured_Articles/Entries/2007/10/2_Native_American_Tobacco_Cultivation_and_Use.html Native American Tobacco Cultivation and Use]", by Ben Rapaport.<br />
<br />
== Broad Categories == <br />
=== "Drugstore" Tobaccos ===<br />
Generally, you will be better off purchasing your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends found in discount stores or supermarkets are made from lower quality tobacco, and include many additives for preservation and "taste enhancement". These alter the way the tobacco smokes, usually for the worse in the case of Drugstore tobaccos.<br />
<br />
=== Aromatics VS. Non-Aromatics === <br />
These are the two broadest subdivisions of pipe tobaccos, although often the distinctions are blurred.<br />
<br />
==== Cased Tobacco? ==== <br />
'''Q: I keep hearing about "cased" tobacco. What does this mean?'''<br />
<br />
'''G.L. Pease Answers''': There are two things of interest here, namely "casing" and "top flavouring." They are two distinctly different approaches to altering a blend's flavor. Some tobaccos employ both.<br />
<br />
Casing requires that the tobacco be soaked, literally, in a "sauce" that may contain sugar, molasses, liquorice, alcohols like rum or whiskey, and various flavourings, natural or otherwise, depending on the manufacturer. Once the tobacco "drinks" the sauce, it's conditioned in large cylinders that dry it back to the desired moisture level, generally between 12% (on the dry side) and 22% (very moist). Optimal moisture for smoking depends on the smoker, but it's generally in the 13-16% range. The aromas and flavours imparted by casing will remain in the tobacco pretty tenaciously, and will affect the smoke throughout the bowl.<br />
<br />
Top-flavouring is added by spraying the finished blend with scents and flavourings. This is a much lighter application, and doesn't alter the moisture content of the leaf dramatically. Sometimes called "top-notes," this can be quite ephemeral. Because of the volatile nature of many of the commonly used components, a tobacco left to "air out" may lose a lot of the perfume that's applied this way.<br />
<br />
Depending on the casing used, tobaccos can become very sticky. Some producers use humectants to maintain a specific moisture level in the final product. You'll hear people talk about PG, or propylene glycol, the most commonly used humectant these days. It's generally spoken of in rather disparaging terms, thought it's not the PG that deserves the condmenation, but the blending houses who use it with reckless abandon. If the tobacco won't dry out, PG is likely the culprit. In small quantities, it does its job well. In large quantities, it produces a sticky, wet smoking, pipe clogging weed that should never see the inside of a pipe.<br />
<br />
Not all flavoured tobaccos are cased, and casing is not always a bad thing, but the term is used incorrectly more often than not, so a lot of confusion has been created.<br />
<br />
===== Myths on Casing =====<br />
<br />
'''I only smoke uncased tobaccos.'''<br />
<br />
'''G.L. Pease Answers:''' In fact, very few, if any, tobaccos on the market today are NOT cased. Casing is the process of adding sugars and flavouring agents before the leaf is further processed. The raw leaf is be soaked or sprayed with a heavy solution of sugars and flavourings like liquorice, vanilla, tonquin, and so on. The amount of sauce absorbed by the leaf depends on the method of application, the structure of the leaf, and the length of time the leaf is in contact with the sauce before further processing. The leaf is then processed as usual. It can be conditioned and cut, or pressed and held to allow further fermentation. It can be heated, steamed, toasted, or just allowed to “bulk” in the atmosphere.<br />
<br />
Raw tobacco, frankly, usually doesn't taste very good, and has poor smoking characteristics. Very few smokers have ever experienced tobaccos, especially virginias and burleys, that do not have SOME sort of casing applied. It's not the casing that turns smokers of “pure” tobacco off; it's the flavourings. When used delicately, they enhance the flavour of the tobacco itself. When used heavily, as in most American style aromatic tobaccos, they can overpower the underlying tobacco flavours.<br />
<br />
'''Q: So, are your tobaccos cased?'''<br />
<br />
A: Most of the leaf we use is cased by the primary processor according to our specifications. In some cases, we do additional casing before blending. So, the answer is yes. It's an important and necessary step in providing the best possible smoking experience, and that's what it's all about, right?<br />
<br />
'''I don't smoke flavoured tobaccos...'''<br />
<br />
A: Again, almost all tobaccos sold are flavoured. Again, raw tobacco is not always the most pleasant thing to smoke, so it needs a little help. Flavourings can be applied with the casing, or after processing, in which case they are known as top-dressings. The difference is subtle, but important. Top dressings provide specific aromas in the tin, but tend to dissipate or flame off when the tobacco is smoked, or even just allowed to air out. The flavourings in the casing is deeper in the leaf, fully absorbed, and is therefore less ephemeral. As with so many things, the dose makes the poison. Just as a little salt can enhance a dish without making it salty, the right amount of flavouring can enhance the taste of the tobacco without overpowering it.<br />
<br />
'''So, you do use flavourings...'''<br />
<br />
A: Of course. In addition to the flavouring agents in the casing sauces, we do, in some cases, add a top dressing as well. We use natural products. Some of the blends are topped with rum, brandy or whisky. Others have additional natural flavours added. If you're asking the question, we must be doing it right.<br />
<br />
''From the [http://glpease.com/FAQ.html G.L.Pease FAQ], and used by permission.''<br />
<br />
=== Aromatics ===<br />
A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped with a natural flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics due to the flavoring added, which can lead to problems smoking them. Some more masterful aromatic blends manage to avoid this. In the case of a moist or wet blend, problems can also be avoided if care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco. This can include setting a portion out to dry a little, and taking any remaining moisture into account when packing the pipe. See [[Pipe Packing and Smoking techniques]].<br />
<br />
=== Cuts of Tobaccos ===<br />
'''Q: Ribbon, shag, flake, plug, rope, disks...What does it all mean?'''<br />
<br />
'''G.L Pease Answers''': "These refer to different cuts of the finished product. "Ribbon" cut tobacco is generally between 1/16" and 3/32" wide, and forms "strands" of varying lengths. "Shag" is just a very fine ribbon. In the US, "flake" refers to a small, irregularly shaped cut, with no dimension exceeding about 1/8" or so. But, there's another connotation, which will be presented shortly. "Plug," or sometimes "bar," is tobacco that is compressed under heat, steam and pressure into a large block. These blocks are sliced into the smaller bars or plugs. Tobacco in this form is very compact, and stores well. Plugs can be sliced thinly to form the other kind of "flake," also known as slices. Tobacco can also be spun into a "rope "or "lanyard." These can be sliced into thin, coin-like disks; the final product is sometimes called "spun-cut."<br />
<br />
''From the [http://glpease.com/FAQ.html G.L.Pease FAQ], and used by permission.''<br />
<br />
== Common Types of Tobacco used in blends. ==<br />
<br />
=== Burley === <br />
Burley tobacco is a light air-cured tobacco used primarily for cigarette production. A low-sugar, high nicotine, slow-burning tobacco with a very subtle flavor. In pipe tobacco, burley is often used as a base for aromatics or to modify the burning characteristics of a blend. In the United States it is produced in an eight state belt with approximately 70% produced in Kentucky. Tennessee produces approximately 20% with smaller amounts produced in Indiana, North Carolina, Missouri, Ohio, Virginia and West Virginia. Burley tobacco is produced in many other countries with major production in Brazil, Malawi and Argentina.<br />
<br />
In the U.S., burley tobacco plants are started from pelletized seeds placed in polystyrene trays floated on a bed of fertilized water in March or April. Transplanting begins in May and progresses through June with a small percentage set in July. Producers must contend with major diseases such as black shank and blue mold and insects like aphids, hornworms and budworms. Plants are topped by removing the developing flower head at approximately 60 days from transplanting and treated to prevent the growth of side shoots called suckers. Topping allows energy that would have produced a bloom to promote leaf expansion. At approximately four weeks after topping the tobacco is stalk cut using a knife that is shaped like a tomahawk. Each plant is speared, spiked or spudded (the terminology depending on the geographic location) onto a stick topped by a metal spear, spike or spud that fits over the stick. Each stick will contain five or six stalks. Sticks of green cut tobacco are most often allowed to field wilt for three or four days prior to hanging in a barn. Tobacco is allowed to air cure for eight or more weeks turning from the normal pale green to yellow and then to brown. Burley that cures too quickly will retain some of the yellow pigments as well as chemicals that normally break down with a slower cure. The quality achieved by U.S. burley producers is primarily due to natural curing conditions. Once fully cured burley is taken down, sticks are removed and leaves are stripped from the plant into grades by stalk position. Leaves are baled by grade and taken to an auction warehouse or to a receiving station run by a tobacco manufacturer or leaf dealer. <br />
<br />
Sources: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burley_%28tobacco%29 Wikipedia], and the A.S.P FAQ.<br />
<br />
'''G.L.Pease on Burly''': "Burley is quite the chameleon! It can hide in a blend, taking on the characteristics of the dominant tobaccos around it, while providing increased body, a heavier mouth feel to the smoke. My guess is that you'd be surprised to learn all the myriad places Burley can be found camouflaged, lurking under cover of its surroundings!<br />
<br />
And, all Burley is not created equal. Just like any other leaf, there's good and there's not so good. So, it's unwise to condemn all Burleys, as so many do, just because of a bad experience with inferior leaf." <br />
''From the [http://glpease.com/FAQ.html G.L.Pease FAQ], and used by permission.''<br />
<br />
=== Cavendish === <br />
Cavendish is more a process of curing and a method of cutting tobacco than a type of it. The processing and the cut are used to bring out the natural sweet taste in the tobacco. Cavendish can be produced out of any tobacco type but is usually one of, or a blend of Kentucky, Virginia, and Burley and is most commonly used for pipe tobacco and cigars.<br />
<br />
The process begins by pressing the tobacco leaves into a cake about an inch thick. Heat from fire or steam is applied, and the tobacco is allowed to ferment. This is said to result in a sweet and mild tobacco. Finally the cake is sliced. These slices must be broken apart, as by rubbing in a circular motion between one's palms, before the tobacco can be evenly packed into a pipe. Flavoring* is often added before the leaves are pressed. English Cavendish uses a dark flue or fire cured Virginia, which is steamed and then stored under pressure to permit it to cure and ferment for several days or weeks.<br />
<br />
There are several colors, including the well-known Black Cavendish, numerous blends, and a wide range of flavors. Modern blends include flavors and ingredients such as cherry, chocolate, coconut, rum, strawberry, vanilla, walnut, and bourbon.<br />
<br />
Cavendish tobacco originated in the late 16th century, when Sir Thomas Cavendish commanded a ship in Sir Richard Grenville's expedition to Virginia in 1585, and discovered that by dipping tobacco leaves in sugar it produced a milder and more mellow smoke.<br />
<br />
*A typical mix of ingredients would be around 54 percent tobacco, 22 percent water, 8 percent alcohol (Glycerol/Sorbitol) and the rest sugars and specific flavoring (e.g., cherry). Sources: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavendish_Tobacco Wikipedia])<br />
<br />
=== Latakia ===<br />
Latakia (Arabic: تبغ اللاذقية) is a specially prepared tobacco originally produced in Syria and named after the port city of Latakia. Now the tobacco is mainly produced in Cyprus. It is cured over a stone pine or oak wood fire, which gives it an intense smokey-peppery taste and smell. Too strong to smoke straight, it's used as a "condiment", especially in English and some American Classic blends.<br />
<br />
==== Is Latakia really cured over smoldering camel dung? ====<br />
'''Questions and Answers From G.L.Pease on Latikia''': "The only smoldering dung is that used to fuel the myths about Latakia. I wouldn't really care if the myth were reality, since I really love the stuff, but, it's important to understand that a variety of herbs and hardwoods are used in the processing of Latakia, not camel dung. No matter how many times I say this, the myth will probably be promulgated until the Sun stops revolving about the Earth... For more information on the wonderful, smoky weed, read my article, [[A Tale of Two Latakias]].<br />
<br />
'''Q: What is generally meant by "English," "Scottish," and "Balkan" style?'''<br />
<br />
A: The definitions of these terms seem somewhat fluid, apart from the fact that all tobaccos bearing these appellations contain Latakia. To my mind, an English blend has a significant portion of Virginia backing up the Latakia, and orientals serve as a spice. A Scottish blend is similar to an English, with less Latakia, a more dominant Virginia character and, perhaps, little or no oriental leaf. A Balkan, on the other hand, is predominately based on oriental tobaccos and Latakia, and just enough Virginia is used to provide structure and balance.<br />
<br />
I don't claim this is right but it's the way I view things.<br />
<br />
'''Q: Which of your Latakia blends is the "fullest?"'''<br />
<br />
A: In order of decreasing "fullness," a difficult subjective description to nail down, I'd rank them, Abingdon, Odyssey, Blackpoint, Charring Cross, Raven's Wing, Samarra, Renaissance, Kensington, Caravan, Ashbury and Piccadilly. Of course, this is NOT the order of decreasing Latakia. Abingdon does have the most, followed by Odyssey, Charing Cross and Raven's Wing, if you add the percentages of the Syrian and the Cyprian. Piccadilly has the least. It's not the percentage of any particular ingredient that matters, but the interplay between the intensities of the flavors and aromas. Caravan has the highest percentage of Oriental tobaccos, which make quite a bold statement. Odyssey, Abingdon and Charing Cross are monsters of Latakia goodness. They're huge, but still quite complex, and each presents a surprising level of subtlety underneath its powerful exterior.<br />
<br />
'''Q: I've been smoking Virginia blends, and want to experiment with Latakia, but I don't seem to "get" them. What's wrong?'''<br />
<br />
A: Latakia blends can be truly remarkable, but it does take a little time to understand them, and some of the popular "English" blends may not be the best way to get an education.<br />
<br />
To start with, stay away from flavored Latakia mixtures, at least at first. The added flavors mask and hid the subtle beauty of some of the more delicate flavors of Latakia and oriental tobaccos. Stick with something that has a lot of natural flavor present, and smoke slowly. Try letting the pipe go out for a while, and then coming back to it. This intensifies the flavors, and gives your palate a chance to zero in on what you are going to be looking for in future smokes. It takes time for new tastes to be incorporated into your taste memory, which is an essential part of really enjoying any tobacco type.<br />
<br />
The same thing is true when going from Latakia blends to Virginias. Give your senses time to "get educated," and the rewards will be more thorough enjoyment of your pipe in the future!<br />
<br />
''From the [http://glpease.com/FAQ.html G.L.Pease FAQ], and used by permission.''<br />
<br />
==== Availability of Syrian Latakia ====<br />
<br />
Though Latakia tobacco from Cyprus seems to be plentiful in the present tobacco market, the prevalence of Syrian Latakia in boutique tobacco blends seems to have diminished of late. Several popular pipe tobacco blends produced by Cornell and Diehl, manufacturers of the G. L. Pease tobacco blends, ceased the inclusion of Syrian Latakia following a warehouse fire in late 2004 which destroyed nearly all of their entire stock of Syrian Latakia:<br />
<br />
"In the morning, our leaf processor's warehouse containing nearly all of the available Syrian Latakia that was brought into the country burned to the ground. A few pounds remain here and there, but of literally tons of this sublime leaf, all that is left is ashes and dust. As bad as this is for us, it's far worse for the importer, who still owned the majority of the leaf lost. The business impact is obvious. All of the Syrian Latakia containing blends, from both GLPease and Cornell & Diehl, can not be produced. Whatever is currently on the shelves is all that there is, or will be in the forseeable future. Trade relations with Syria are somewhat sensitive at present, and while we're working through every possible channel to replace what was lost, we have no way of predicting when we'll be able to get another shipment."<br />
<br />
Despite this apparent setback, other manufacturers such as McClelland and MacBaren have been able to continue to produce pipe tobacco blends containing Syrian Latakia. <br />
Sources: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latakia_%28tobacco%29 Wikipedia] and the [http://glpease.com/FAQ.html G.L.Pease FAQ]<br />
<br />
=== Orientals ===<br />
By definition, "Orientals" are those tobaccos indigenous to the eastern Mediterranean region, including the various "Turkish" tobaccos and latakia. An "Oriental blend" contains at least one and often several of these tobaccos.<br />
<br />
Most of this information comes from the ASP posts of Greg Pease, and Jon Tillman's Tobacco Reviews database. Additional material comes from the ASP posts of Michael Lindner, Paul Szabady, Bob Weiske, Lance Sang, Terry Freeman, Terry McGinty, Michael Lovell, Mike Gervais, Robert Crim, Mike Cox, Mark Peeples, J.W. Davis, Pascal Essers, and Ed Anderson.<br />
<br />
==== The Characteristics of Oriental Tobacco ====<br />
Oriental, or Turkish, is a spice tobacco known for its nutty, somewhat "sweet and sour" flavor. It's a main component in English blends, along with Latakia (which is itself an Oriental that's been flavored with smoke).<br />
<br />
This tobacco derives its name from the area in which it's grown: the Eastern Mediterranean. Each of the varietals, in fact, are named after the towns or regions they come from. Thus Yenidje and Smyrna are Greek, Samsun and Izmir are Turkish, Drama is Macedonian, and Xanthe is from the region of Thrace, which is mostly in Greece. For all intents are purposes this is all one region, united for many years under Turkish rule (hence the interchangeable terms "Oriental" and "Turkish".)<br />
<br />
Oriental tobacco plants characteristically have a great deal of small leaves. The finished product ranges in color from yellow to brown, and is strongly aromatic. Its smell is reminiscent of used horse bedding, which could possibly explain why it's often mixed with Latakia.<br />
<br />
==== Where to Find the Different Varietals ====<br />
Turkish varietals, unfortunately, are no longer available, even to professional blenders. Cigarette companies snap up most of the Turkish leaf production, and the remainder is made into a generic Turkish blend. This is the Oriental tobacco (often referred to as "basma") that one finds either in bulk, or in ready-made blends.<br />
<br />
[[Popular Oriental Blends]]<br />
<br />
=== Perique ===<br />
Another "spice" tobacco grown only in St. James Parish, Louisiana. Perique is subjected to extreme pressure and is allowed to ferment as it is cured, which results in a very distinctive tobacco.<br />
<br />
The following information comes from the A.S.P FAQ on Perique[http://www.aspipes.org/faq/faq/perique.html], which credits the Nichols and Brown home page, with additional information from the Perique web site by Gerard Faucheux, the New Orleans Times-Picayune (thanks to ASP member Daniel D. Marsalone), and the archived ASP posts of Irwin Friedman, Ray Newton, and Robert Holmes.<br />
<br />
'''What Are the Characteristics of Perique?'''<br />
<br />
Perique is a spice tobacco, usually used in Virginia blends. It has a dark, oily appearance, and a taste of pepper and figs. Its flavor is very strong, so it isn't usually found in high percentages in a blend. It can be smoked straight, but isn't intended to be.<br />
<br />
Its role as a complement to VA's is not just because of its flavor. Being acidic, it tends to alleviate alkaline tongue bite, which is so often a problem with Virginia tobacco.<br />
<br />
==== History of Perique ====<br />
The process by which this tobacco is produced pre-dates Columbus. The Choctaw Indians of (what would later be) Louisiana would make it by pressing it into hollow logs with a long pole, and securing it with weights.<br />
<br />
After the Acadians (Cajuns) settled the area in the mid-1700's, the Choctaws taught this process to a French colonist by the name of Pierre Chenet. The finished product was referred to as Perique, a Cajun variation on the word "prick". This referred either to the phallic shape of the carottes (the tight bundles of market-ready Perique), or Chenet himself, as it was his nickname!<br />
Where is Perique Grown?<br />
<br />
The only place in the world Perique can be grown is in a small section of Louisiana called St. James Parish. Inside St. James Parish, the best location for growing (and the only place it's grown now) is a very small area called Grande Pointe Ridge, which can be found in the town of Paulina. This is due to both the climate, and the unusual soil of the area, which is referred to as "Magnolia" soil. Nourished by the swamps that surround Grande Pointe, Magnolia is a dark and highly fertile alluvial soil.<br />
<br />
The actual strain of tobacco can vary, although tobacco that isn't native to the soils of Louisiana doesn't yield a good product. Supposedly the most common strain used with Perique is something called "red burley".<br />
<br />
St. James Perique is extremely rare, so the tobacco is produced elsewhere to meet demands, though without the same results. Kentucky Green River Burley is most commonly used to make Perique. This particular version is the Perique that most pipe smokers are familiar with.<br />
<br />
==== The making of Perique ====<br />
At harvest time, the wilted leaves of the tobacco are hung up to dry for two weeks, stripped of hard veins, and packed into bundles (called torquettes). These torquettes are put into barrels under extreme pressure, and allowed to cure in their own juices (which collect as run-off at the top of the barrels). Over the course of many months, these bundles are periodically "turned", and then placed again under pressure in the barrels. Without any air to interact with the tobacco, Perique ferments anaerobically, producing the distinctive taste.<br />
<br />
'''Is Perique Endangered?'''<br />
<br />
It was close! But things look better. Because Perique grows in a very small area within the St.James Perish in Louisiana, hurricanes and other variables in the weather can effect the entire crop for any given year. The economy of the region is also a factor. Perique farmers have passed their lands and knowledge on to their families for 150 years, but farming Perique is very labor intensive, and the profits are small. Many in the younger generations of these farming families have taken jobs in nearby plants. Perique is now farmed by only a few small operations between 1/4 acre and 10 acres. Only Percy Martin, the largest producer processes the crop commercially, and he is under contract with the Santa Fe Natural Tobacco Co, which buys all of his tobacco for cigarettes. A handful of the remaining producers do some pre-processing, but the only other producer of Perique has been the L.A. Poche Perique Tobacco Co., which came close to closing in 2005. At that point it looked bleak for Perique until Mark Ryan and Steve Coley stepped in, forming a new company, Coley Ryan Tobacco Enterprises, which stepped in and bought L.A. Poche. They had lots of help from Neal Poche, and Dudley LeBlanc, who is the second largest grower of Perique after Martin. With Poche and LeBlanc's help, Ryan and Coley learned the unique processes, and have committed themselves and their company to to the future of Perique. It would appear that Perique's future is as bright as it has been for some time. (see Pipes and Tobacco Magazine, Summer 2006 issue, page 40). <br />
<br />
Where Can I Buy Perique?<br />
<br />
Bulk perique can be purchased anywhere that offers blending tobaccos. Some commonly-known retailers of blending tobaccos are as follows: [http://cornellanddiehl.com/blending_tobaccos.htm Cornell and Diehl] and [http://www.tobaccodirect.com/smarthtml/Blending.html Tobacco Direct]<br />
<br />
[[Popular Perique Blends]]<br />
<br />
=== Turkish === <br />
Any of a number of tobaccos grown in numerous locales throughout the eastern Mediterranean region. Common "Turkish" varieties include Basma, Smyrna, Xanthi, Samsun, Izmir, Drama, and Yenidje. Generally, these names are derived from the region in which they are grown. Turkish tobaccos have a somewhat sweet, spicy flavor that gives "body" to many blends.<br />
<br />
=== Virginia ===<br />
Despite the name, Virginias are grown in numerous locales. There are several varieties of Virginias, but all are characterized a relatively high sugar content. Virginias are often used as the base tobacco in blends, but they are smoked "straight" as well. Straight Virginias undergo changes in flavor as they age, similar to fine wines. Lighter in body than Oriental blends, they have a subtle complexity of flavor that makes them a favorite of many experienced smokers.<br />
<br />
Much of this information comes from the ASP posts of Greg Pease and Paul Szabady, and from Jon Tillman's Tobacco Reviews site, with additional material from the ASP posts of Chase Turner, Bear Graves, Sykes Wilford, Steve Thomas, Mike Jacobs, Greg Sprinkle, Tapio Pentikainen, Art Ruppelt, Tarek Manadily, Michael McCormick, George Miller, Joshua Rosenblatt, Neal Mille, and Ray Roewert.<br />
<br />
==== The Characteristics of Virginia ====<br />
VA's are complex and delicate. When smoked poorly, they can taste like hot air, but with good smoking technique they can span a range of tastes, and are usually sweet, tangy and fruit-like. VA's are more prone to cause tongue-bite than any other tobacco, so there are a number of reasons to practice good technique with these blends.<br />
<br />
Unlike most tobaccos, VA's improve toward the bottom of the bowl. A slow smoke will stove the bottom layers of tobacco, deepening the flavors and reducing the chance of tongue bite.<br />
What Are The Different Varieties of VA?<br />
<br />
Virginias are referred to in a number of different ways. A "bright" VA is named as such because it's taken from the top of the plant, where the highest quality leaf is.<br />
<br />
VA's can also be referred to by their colors. The most common color grades are lemon, golden, and red. Ignoring a great many factors (such as climate, soil, and time of harvest), the color of a VA relates to its sugar content. Tobacco that is cured longer (and is thus darker in color) will be less sweet than a tobacco cured quickly.<br />
<br />
Stoved VA's are also referred to separately. Stoving (the process of literally cooking the tobacco) darkens a tobacco and changes its taste, usually reducing tongue bite. Incidentally, VA's with the most sugar will darken the most.<br />
<br />
==== Where Is Virginia Grown? ====<br />
<br />
VA's are grown all over the world. In the United States, the various Virginia-producing regions are referred to as "Belts", but this tobacco can be found in countries like Canada, Brazil, India, China, and the African countries of Tanzania, Malawi, and especially Zimbabwe. This last country, in fact, accounts for much of the world's VA production.<br />
<br />
As stated before, location (soil, climate, etc.) will greatly affect the flavor and character of any tobacco. It is not necessarily true, though, that the best VA's come from the United States, or from the state of Virginia. <br />
<br />
[[Popular Virgina Blends]]<br />
<br />
=== Pipes and Certain Tobaccos ===<br />
It is often said by pipe smokers that they will dedicate certain pipes to certain tobaccos. This makes some sense in that tobaccos do leave some residual taste in any pipe they are smoked in. Many of us will not go that far, but might dedicate pipes to certain genre's of tobaccos. Virginias for instance. Often one will not smoke Latikia blends in their pipes dedicated to Virginas. <br />
<br />
Another area of interest is that certain pipes seem to smoke better with certain tobaccos, certain genre's or certain cuts. Along those lines, Tarek Manadily has written an interesting articale called [[Pressed Tobaccos and Flake Pipes]].<br />
<br />
== Tasting Pipe Tobaccos ==<br />
<br />
Fred Hanna has written an excellent article for The Pipe Collector that addresses the concept of tasting tobaccos such as we might approach a fine wine. Excellent reading and re-published here by permission: [[Tasting Pipe Tobaccos: Should we Become more Disciplined about this?]] By Fred Hanna<br />
<br />
== Aging ==<br />
=== G.L. Pease on againg ===<br />
Q: Will all tobaccos improve with age?<br />
<br />
A: Generally, any tobacco with plenty of natural sugars will age wonderfully. Virginia is always a prime candidate, but so are blends with lots or Oriental leaf. Though Oriental varieties don't have as much sugar as Virginias, they do contain enough to go through fermentation in the tin, and will improve over time.<br />
<br />
Q: Isn't "fresh" tobacco better?<br />
<br />
A: Unless you go to a plantation, or grow your own, you'll never see "fresh" tobacco. By the time it gets into the hands of the blender, it's been cured, sweated, fermented, and allowed to "settle down." Once it's blended, the finished product is allowed to meld for a time before it's put into the tins. Then, the real magic of the aging process begins. While a well conceived blend will be delicious almost immediately after blending, time in the tin will make a noticeable change, adding complexity and smoothing out any rough edges.<br />
<br />
Q: How soon is blend "right" for proper smoking?<br />
<br />
A: This is dependent upon several factors, including storage method, tobacco processing methods and personal taste. While certainly not at its best, a well conceived blend should smoke well very shortly after it's blended. If it's not good when it's young, it will never become great. Waiting a couple months, or even more, will allow the various components of the blend to "marry," to come together into a cohesive whole, rather than present themselves more as individual aspects of the blend. Within one to five years, the tobacco will really begin to shine. Beyond this time frame, the changes are much more gradual. While the blend may continue to improve for years, even decades, the changes will not be as dramatic as they are in the first few years. Some people enjoy the exuberance of young blends, while others prefer the mature complexity of tobaccos that have been aged for long periods. I recommend experimenting to see what suits you best!<br />
<br />
Q: How long can I expect a blend to improve?<br />
<br />
A: It really depends on the blend. A full Virginia will continue to improve, though at an increasingly slow rate, over many decades. Most English style tobaccos can go 20-30 years before they begin to go "over the hill." Balkan styles have a shorter life expectancy. Of course, storage conditions will play a part. It the tobacco is cellared at a constant, cool temperature, it will last longer than if it's stored in higher temperatures, or with lots of temperature variations.<br />
<br />
Q: What's the best way to store tobacco for aging?<br />
<br />
A: Ideally, tobacco should be left in its original sealed tin, and stored in a cool, dry place. It's important to realize that storage in plastic bags and the like, while allowing the tobacco to "meld," will prevent the true aging process. Plastic bags are permeable to small molecules. (Water, while not a very large molecule, is polarized, and has a hard time penetrating the barrier formed by the plastic.) If you can smell the contents through the bag, you're losing flavor and aroma! Mason jars, bail-top jars and so on are good candidates for long term storage, as long as you can resist the urge to open them to "check up" on what's happening. Aging tobacco must be left alone, with no gas exchange allowed. Once an aged tin is open, the contents should either be smoked relatively quickly, or transferred to a jar with a good seal.<br />
<br />
Q: What about vacuum sealing?<br />
<br />
A: Vacuum sealing is great for vegetables and coffee, but is pointless for tobacco. Tobacco needs some air to be locked in with it , at least to begin with, in order for it to age. A perfectly vacuum sealed container will likely keep the tobacco "fresh," but it may not really age the way we expect it to. I'm more than a little suspicious about the heavy plastic "bags" used by most of these machines. They hold moisture in just fine, but they really don't prevent gas exchange, and I'm not sure they're truly able to stand the test of time. Tins are best. Jars are a close second. The special high barrier bags we used for a while for our 8oz packaging have several layers, each designed to be impenetrable to a different sort of molecule. I've conducted extended tests with this material, and am satisified that the tobacco will age nearly, if not as well as in the tins, at least for the short term. They are only slightly evacuted to facilitate packing and sealing. For best long-term aging, though, I still recommend tins.<br />
<br />
Q: I've read about heating the tobacco in a microwave. Is this a good idea?<br />
<br />
In a word, NO. Heating tobacco that you like is not a good idea, as it will change the character of the blend. Blenders do it in specifically controlled ways - stoving, panning, steaming - to alter the characteristics of the leaf before, and sometimes after blending. But, if you like the way the tobacco “comes together” now, you may be less than happy if you nuke it. In some cases, you might notice an improvement, in others, the result will be anything but satisfactory. Further, there just is no reason to do this. Sterilize your jars, fill them up, and put the caps on. What purpose will heating serve? The jars will seal fine without the “pop” of the slight vacuum that results from cooling.<br />
<br />
Q: So, I've opened an aged tin. Now what?<br />
<br />
A: This is a little tricky. Once the seal of the tin is broken, the delicate balance present in that little ecosystem is permanently altered. You can't go back! So, once that tin is open, either smoke its contents fairly quickly, or transfer it to air-tight containers, like bail-top canning jars. The aging process from this point on will be different, but the tobacco will remain in fine condition for your enjoyment as long as it's kept in good condition. (The plastic lids on my tins will keep the tobacco in find shape for anywhere from a couple weeks to a few months, depending on the ambient temperature and humidity. Just keep an eye on it!) This is the reason, by the way, that I cellar 2-oz tins, rather than the 8-oz ones. Once I open that tin, I want to smoke its contents as quickly as possible to get the maximum enjoyment from my years of patience. It's like a fine wine - cellar it for a long time, but drink it fairly quickly.<br />
<br />
Q: What abot plastic bags, like zip-locks?<br />
<br />
A: While plastic bags can form a reasonably good barrier to moisture, keeping the tobacco ready to smoke, the polyethylene that is used for most plastic bags is quite permeable to gasses. You can smell tobacco through the bags, after a time, and all that “aroma” that's getting out is stuff that you really want to keep in! For my 8-oz bags, I use a high-barrier film that forms a barrier to both water and gasses. These will not only keep the tobacco at the perfect smoking moisture, but will also allow aging to take place. This just won't happen with plastic bags, even those that are used with kitchen heat-sealing machines. For short term, like keeping an ounce around for smoking, plastic bags are fine. For long term storage, fuggedaboutit.<br />
<br />
Q: Which of your blends are best suited for aging?<br />
<br />
A: I design all my blends with aging in mind. Barbary Coast, being based on Burley, is probably the blend that will benefit least from long cellaring, though the flavors WILL continue to meld over several years, and there's enough virginia leaf, as well as perique, to afford some significant change. The cigar leaf in Robusto may peak after 5-7 years, but the Virginias and oriental leaf will continue to develop increased complexity. All the rest will improve for 10, 20, 30, 40 years or even longer. Ask me again at the turn of the next century...<br />
=== Off site links on aging ===<br />
*R.C. Hamlin has written an excellent article called [http://www.pipeguy.com/tobac_age.htm Tobacco, worth the wait]<br />
<br />
== Off sight links ==<br />
*An excellent resource for exploring pipe tobaccos is [http://tobaccoreviews.com/ tobaccoreviews.com]<br />
*Greg Pease has a very interesting and informative [http://glpease.com/ website] and [http://www.glpease.com/BriarAndLeaf/ blog]<br />
*Cornell & Diehl, Inc. [http://cornellanddiehl.com/ C&D]<br />
*MacBaren Tobacco [http://www.mac-baren.com/TopMenu/Main-1.aspx website]<br />
*Samuel Gawith & Co. LTD Producers of fine pipe tobaccos since 1792. [http://www.samuelgawith.co.uk website]<br />
*Orlik Tobacco Company A/S [http://www.orlik.com website]<br />
*tabaky.cz - page with rewievs (CZ,SK,PL) [http://www.tabaky.cz website]<br />
<br />
Please add links to blenders, or informative tobacco sites.</div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=User:Ypres.bass&diff=4113User:Ypres.bass2008-01-05T22:42:24Z<p>Ypres.bass: New page: I'm: * Standa Kolařík (1987) * young pipesmoker from Czech Republic * member of pipE-club dymka.net (http://www.dymka.net) * student of FF UPCE</p>
<hr />
<div>I'm:<br />
* Standa Kolařík (1987)<br />
* young pipesmoker from Czech Republic<br />
* member of [[pipE-club dymka.net]] (http://www.dymka.net)<br />
* student of FF UPCE</div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=H%C3%A1p&diff=4112Háp2008-01-05T22:17:21Z<p>Ypres.bass: New page: leftthumb|thumb|left| leftthumb| Pavel Háp (1954) i...</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Hap_logo.jpg|thumb|left]][[Image:hap.gif|thumb|]][[Image:hap3.jpg|thumb|]][[Image:hap1.jpg|thumb|left|]]<br />
[[Image:hap2.jpg|thumb|left]][[Image:hap4.jpg|thumb|]]<br />
<br />
Pavel Háp (1954) is czech pipemaker from little town Proseč u Skutče ( pipemaking have long tradition in Proseč region and here is the pipe factory [[BPK]] too). He worked for 25years in BPK factory with chief Jan Buben who teach him.<br />
<br />
In 1999 he left factory and founded little workshop in his house. Here he make pipes in variations of classical shapes, but with his originaly shapes too. In his catalog is over 100 pipes and much of accesorries which he made.<br />
<br />
To pipemaking he use briar plateaux from Italy.<br />
<br />
Everybody can contact him about visit in his workshop for look on work on their pipe.<br />
<br />
'''Pavel's [http://www.hap-pipes.eu website]'''<br />
<br />
'''Contact information: '''<br />
Pavel Háp<br />
Proseč u Skutče 303<br />
53944 <br />
tel.: +420 723 634 922<br />
mailto:pavel.hap@centrum.cz</div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=File:Hap_logo.jpg&diff=4111File:Hap logo.jpg2008-01-05T22:09:55Z<p>Ypres.bass: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=File:Hap4.jpg&diff=4110File:Hap4.jpg2008-01-05T22:06:21Z<p>Ypres.bass: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=File:Hap3.jpg&diff=4109File:Hap3.jpg2008-01-05T22:06:10Z<p>Ypres.bass: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=File:Hap2.jpg&diff=4108File:Hap2.jpg2008-01-05T22:05:59Z<p>Ypres.bass: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=File:Hap1.jpg&diff=4107File:Hap1.jpg2008-01-05T22:05:43Z<p>Ypres.bass: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Ypres.basshttps://pipedia.org/index.php?title=File:Hap.gif&diff=4106File:Hap.gif2008-01-05T22:03:44Z<p>Ypres.bass: Pavel Háp in action</p>
<hr />
<div>Pavel Háp in action</div>Ypres.bass