Pipe Making: Difference between revisions

From Pipedia
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Line 10: Line 10:


==== Pipe Kits:====  
==== Pipe Kits:====  
Pre-bored pipe making kits with pre-fit stems are a good way to start, especially for those who don't have access to many tools, or previous woodworking experience. With the kit, the new pipe maker can focus their efforts on shaping and finishing the pipe and avoid the pitfalls associated with drilling the tobacco chamber, airway, and mortise, not to mention facing the shank and stem to meet perfectly, and turning the tenon of the stem to fit snugly in the mortise. These steps are all great fun and some first time pipe makers start right in from scratch, but it can be a bit overwhelming and tool intensive for the beginner without a background in woodworking or machining trades. Even with the pipe kit, it is still possible to do some "tweaking" of the airway in the shank and stem, as well as thinning the button area and carefully funneling slot. Careful attention to tweaking in the generic mechanics of a pipe kit after shaping the stummel and shank can turn it into a really fine pipe, and every bit your own creation.
Pre-bored pipe making kits with pre-fit stems are a good way to start, especially for those who don't have access to many tools, or previous woodworking experience. With the kit, the new pipe maker can focus their efforts on shaping and finishing the pipe and avoid the pitfalls associated with drilling the tobacco chamber, airway, and mortise, not to mention facing the shank and stem to meet perfectly, and turning the tenon of the stem to fit snugly in the mortise. These steps are all great fun and some first time pipe makers start right in from scratch, but it can be a bit overwhelming and tool intensive for the beginner without a background in woodworking or machining trades. Even with the pipe kit, it is still possible to do some "tweaking" of the airway in the shank and stem, as well as thinning the button area and carefully funneling the slot. Careful attention to tweaking in the generic mechanics of a pipe kit after shaping the stummel and shank can turn it into a really fine pipe, and every bit your own creation.


Pipe kits generally come in variations of three basic styles intended for bent pipes, straight pipes, or freehand pipes. Several pipe makers also offer custom kits. Kits are available with two different pre-fit stem mounting styles (flush or military mount), and using either ebauchon or plateaux cut briar blocks.  
Pipe kits generally come in variations of three basic styles intended for bent pipes, straight pipes, or freehand pipes. Several pipe makers also offer custom kits. Kits are available with two different pre-fit stem mounting styles (flush or military mount), and using either ebauchon or plateaux cut briar blocks.  
Line 16: Line 16:
Ebauchon blocks are generally used in the manufacture of machine made pipes. They are most often cut perpendicular to the axis of the straight grain, which renders cross grains with birdseye. They tend to have more inherent flaws than plateaux briar. They are typically good for a small to medium pipe, and are most often cheaper, and often recommended for a first pipe.
Ebauchon blocks are generally used in the manufacture of machine made pipes. They are most often cut perpendicular to the axis of the straight grain, which renders cross grains with birdseye. They tend to have more inherent flaws than plateaux briar. They are typically good for a small to medium pipe, and are most often cheaper, and often recommended for a first pipe.


Plateaux Briar, as the name suggests, is the top part of the burl. It has a rough pebble top that can be left on for a freehand look or sanded smooth for a traditional appearance. Plateaux comes in different shapes and sizes. we will do the best we can to match your design to the proper block. Plateaux grain tends to run straight or angled. These blocks will generally yield flame grains or an occasional straight grain. They contain generally less flaws than ebauchon , though you don't know what a block will yield until you get into it.
Plateaux Briar, as the name suggests, is the top part of the burl. It has a rough pebble top that can be left on for a freehand look or sanded smooth for a traditional appearance. Plateaux comes in different shapes and sizes. The custom pipe kit makers will do the best they can to match your design to the proper block. Plateaux grain tends to run straight or angled. These blocks will generally yield flame grains or an occasional straight grain. They contain generally less flaws than ebauchon, though you don't know what a block will yield until you get into it.


[http://www.pimopipecraft.com Pimo] offers kits, but many pipe makers in the US recommend the ones from American Smoking Pipe Co. ([[Mark Tinsky]]). Available from [http://www.amsmoke.com/Services/PipeKit.html The American Smoking Pipe], or from [[Tim West]] (J.H. Lowe) available from [http://www.jhlowe.com/briar.htm J.H.Lowe]. Kits are also available from  [http://www.pipemakers.org/ Pipe Makers Emporium] and eBay stores [http://stores.ebay.com/GreatGoodsRUS GreatGoodsRUS] and [http://stores.ebay.com/Vermont-Freehand_pre-drilled-briar-pipe-kits_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ17QQftidZ2QQtZkm Vermont Freehand].
[http://www.pimopipecraft.com Pimo] offers kits, but many pipe makers in the US recommend the ones from American Smoking Pipe Co. ([[Mark Tinsky]]). Available from [http://www.amsmoke.com/Services/PipeKit.html The American Smoking Pipe], or from [[Tim West]] (J.H. Lowe) available from [http://www.jhlowe.com/briar.htm J.H.Lowe]. Kits are also available from  [http://www.pipemakers.org/ Pipe Makers Emporium] and eBay stores [http://stores.ebay.com/GreatGoodsRUS GreatGoodsRUS] and [http://stores.ebay.com/Vermont-Freehand_pre-drilled-briar-pipe-kits_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ17QQftidZ2QQtZkm Vermont Freehand].

Revision as of 13:43, 24 August 2007

Pipemakers logo.jpg

The Pipe Making subsection of Pipedia serves as the Wiki home of the PipemakersForum.com. Much of what appears here is gleaned from the Forum. We highly recommend reading and participation in the forum in addition to reading and contributing here.

New pipe makers will find these two charts helpful. Classic pipe shapes, by Bill Burney: Pipe Shapes. And pipe parts along with their names, also by Bill Burney, see Pipe Parts.

Teddy Knudsen shaping, courtesy Lars Kiel

Getting Started

Many pipe makers in the US start out with a small Book called Pimo's Guide to Pipe Crafting at Home. While far from exhaustive, this small book offers many helpful tips on pipe making with minimal tooling. Also helpful is the article Pipe Making For The Rank Amateur, by Bob Everett.

A Cautionary Note: Because some ultra high grade pipes sell for thousands of dollars, it is tempting for the uninitiated to think they may be able to get rich making pipes, or at least make a decent living. Relatively few pipe makers make their primary living as pipe makers, and it is a very small handful of pipe makers that sell in the upper price ranges. Those that do have unusual talents or gifts and have dedicated a great deal of time developing them. Most also invest a considerable amount of money in equipment and materials. Having said this, pipe making is great fun, and very rewarding in many ways, but be careful--most pipe smokers are not addicted to tobacco, but most pipe makers are addicted to pipe making!

Pipe Kits:

Pre-bored pipe making kits with pre-fit stems are a good way to start, especially for those who don't have access to many tools, or previous woodworking experience. With the kit, the new pipe maker can focus their efforts on shaping and finishing the pipe and avoid the pitfalls associated with drilling the tobacco chamber, airway, and mortise, not to mention facing the shank and stem to meet perfectly, and turning the tenon of the stem to fit snugly in the mortise. These steps are all great fun and some first time pipe makers start right in from scratch, but it can be a bit overwhelming and tool intensive for the beginner without a background in woodworking or machining trades. Even with the pipe kit, it is still possible to do some "tweaking" of the airway in the shank and stem, as well as thinning the button area and carefully funneling the slot. Careful attention to tweaking in the generic mechanics of a pipe kit after shaping the stummel and shank can turn it into a really fine pipe, and every bit your own creation.

Pipe kits generally come in variations of three basic styles intended for bent pipes, straight pipes, or freehand pipes. Several pipe makers also offer custom kits. Kits are available with two different pre-fit stem mounting styles (flush or military mount), and using either ebauchon or plateaux cut briar blocks.

Ebauchon blocks are generally used in the manufacture of machine made pipes. They are most often cut perpendicular to the axis of the straight grain, which renders cross grains with birdseye. They tend to have more inherent flaws than plateaux briar. They are typically good for a small to medium pipe, and are most often cheaper, and often recommended for a first pipe.

Plateaux Briar, as the name suggests, is the top part of the burl. It has a rough pebble top that can be left on for a freehand look or sanded smooth for a traditional appearance. Plateaux comes in different shapes and sizes. The custom pipe kit makers will do the best they can to match your design to the proper block. Plateaux grain tends to run straight or angled. These blocks will generally yield flame grains or an occasional straight grain. They contain generally less flaws than ebauchon, though you don't know what a block will yield until you get into it.

Pimo offers kits, but many pipe makers in the US recommend the ones from American Smoking Pipe Co. (Mark Tinsky). Available from The American Smoking Pipe, or from Tim West (J.H. Lowe) available from J.H.Lowe. Kits are also available from Pipe Makers Emporium and eBay stores GreatGoodsRUS and Vermont Freehand.

In Denmark kits available from P.E.Hermann. In Norway kits are available from Tabago. In Germany kits are available from Dan Pipe.

Basic Tools

It is wise to refrain from investing in expensive tooling until you have made your first few pipes. Tools needed to complete a pipe kit:

1. Electric Hand drill(variable speed 3/8" or larger)*
   1.1 Buy or build a jig that will enable you to clamp the drill to your work bench or table. 
   1.2 Flexible 3" to 5" sanding disk and arbor, and assorted grit sandpaper.
   1.2 At least 2 6" buffing wheels and arbors, buffing compounds, Carnuba wax.** 
2. Files(Nicholson makes nice file sets at affordable prices. One can never have too many files of   
   various sizes, shapes and cuts). A round chain saw file is also very handy.
3. Coping saw for rough shaping
4. Eye protection and respirator or dust masks.
  • The electric hand drill and accessories is optional. It saves a lot of time, and can be used for many other things should pipe making not be an ongoing interest. Still, it's amazing who much one can do with just files, sandpaper, and elbow grease.
  • It is best to use only one type of compound on each buffing wheel. Ideally it is good to have four. Two muslin ones for compounds, one muslin one for applying the Carnuba wax, and one flannel wheel for the final buff.

Note: The above tools are very adequate for working with pipe kits. If you're planning on drilling the stummel (briar block) and then fitting the stem to the block, you will also want either a more elaborate jig for mounting your hand drill, such as is described in the Pimo book, a drill press (drill press frames for holding your hand drill would also work), or a lathe. In addition you will need to buy or make tobacco chamber bits, and buy drill bits for drilling the mortise and airway. (see Tooling)

Basic Supplies

The following supplies will be needed to complete a pipe kit:

1. Sandpaper in the following grits: 150, 220, 360, 400, and 600.
2. Stain of your choice. Use alcohol based analyn dye, or leather dye
3. Denatured alcohol for thinning stains and wetting the pipe to see grain and scratches
4. Buffing compounds (tan or brown tripoli and white diamond are a good start).
3. Carnauba wax for a smooth finish, and/or maybe shellac for a rusticated finish.

Many of these items can be purchased locally. Others can be ordered with your pipe kit. Also see Suppliers.

Design and R&D

This section is under development. We hope to add more articles and topics pertaining to Pipe Design and Mechanics as they are found and collated. Trever Talbert on Design Work

Airflow

Many pipe enthusiasts are familiar with Rick Newcombe's writing on airflow, where he suggests that pipes with an open air flow smoke better. While not the originator of this concept, he has been its most public advocate, and duly credited with its popularization. Ken Campbell has written an article for The Pipe Collector called Airflow: The Key to Smoking Pleasure which further explores the concept.

The concept of "opening" was originally employed in the after-market modification of production engineering. Many pipe makers have adopted elements of this concept of airflow, with many American makers using airways ranging from 9/64" to 11/64". A related and perhaps more important aspect of an open air flow is providing for constant airway volume as it passes through the sections of the pipe. This concept was pioneered by J.T. Cooke and further developed by Trever Talbert, Jody Davis (J. Davis) and Todd Johnson. While traditional pipe engineering often utilizes different diameter bits for airways in the shank and stem, this constant volume technique employs the same overall diameter bit throughout, with the exception of the last 1" or so at the bit. Here it tapers evenly down while also widening out. This provides for a comfortably thin bit, while also providing for a constant volume of smoke throughout the smoke stream.

Stummels

The "Stummel" is the briar portion of the pipe, which includes the bowl and shank.

Briar

Here are some interesting articles on briar: Curing & Treating, by Trever Talbert; Curing, is an interesting article by R.D. Field on how briar is cured; Where to Get Your Briar, by Kurt Huhn; 100 Year Old Briar?, A small collection of information by Bill Unger

Morta

Morta is semi-fossilized wood. It is created when large trees are felled or overturned by geologic activity and become buried in an oxygen-limited fashion, usually in peat or clay. The wood is unable to rot normally so it begins the long process of fossilizing into stone. Morta is a generic term used to describe any semi-fossilized wood of this style. Morta is found in various locations across the globe, usually in marshlands or moors, and varies widely in its durability, age, and potential usefulness for pipemaking. Trever Talbert is one of the pipe makers using Morta for one of his lines of pipes, and the morta he uses is from a local oak forest that covered the Briere area some 3,000+ years ago. Trever describes the process in the following article, Creating Pipes From Morta

Overview

The basis for the following section was written by Tyler Lane for his website, and is used by permission.

The internal engineering of a pipe does a lot to determine the smoking qualities of a pipe. While it is most certainly critical to start with good briar, it is also important to take care to do a good job of drilling in order to maximize the potential of the briar. A poorly drilled pipe is not only a sign of a maker's sloppiness, but is likely to hurt the smoking qualities of a pipe.

Essentially three holes need be drilled in the briar block to make it into a pipe. The tobacco chamber , the draught hole (or smoke hole), and the mortise (the hole in the end of the shank which the stem is inserted into).

Most tobacco chambers are 5/8"-1", and I estimate that the majority of handmade pipes have tobacco chambers from 3/4"-7/8" range. The profile of this holes ranges from a U-shape to a V-shape, determined mostly by the shape of the bowl. A tobacco chamber's diameter is measured at the top of the bowl.

Draught-hole size is a topic of much debate. The size of this hole is a large factor in the openness of the draw, and the debate is over which size brings the best smoking characteristics. I personally use 5/32" (3.97 mm), and this is on the larger size of the debate. Some endorse a draught hole as large as 4.2-4.3 mm, while some say that 3.2-3.5 mm is the optimum size. Ultimately, there are so many variables, from tobacco chamber size and shape, to the nature and curing of each block of briar, that it is nigh on impossible to claim a best size for all scenarios. As such, a compromise much be reached, and each pipe maker must use a size that he determines best matches his, and his customers', desires.

Finally, there is the mortise. This needs to be very cleanly cut into the shank to provide a nice fit for the tenon on the stem. Most mortises range from 1/4"- 3/8", with the norm falling around 5/16".

Drilling can be done at various points in the carving process. I personally drill the holes as the first step of the pipe making process, in the order of draught hole, mortise hole, then tobacco chamber. I think this is the standard order of events for most hobbyist carvers. Many of the Danish carvers, shape the pipe first then drill the stummel by hand after it is shaped. The advantage to this process is that the shape of the pipe is not constrained by the pre-bored holes, and the shape can therefore be adjusted to maximize the beauty of the grain and minimize pits. It is not practiced as often as the "holes-first" method, I suppose because of years of practice necessary to develop the degree of skill it requires to drill the holes properly by hand.

The following articles should prove helpful in understanding the process of drilling and shaping the stummel.

Processes

Pipe makers use a variety of methods to accomplish the basic tasks of making a pipe. The following articles attempt to chronicle methods for working with stummels that are in use by some respected pipe makers.

Drilling on a Lathe (Tyler Lane) | Shaping on a Lathe (Tyler Lane) | Shaping with a Sanding Disc (Tyler Lane) | Shaping with Misc Tools (Tyler Lane) | Bamboo Shanks | Hardwood Shank Extensions | Trever Talbert on Sawing and Shaping | Trever Talbert on Drilling | Trever Talbert on Drilling | Trever Talbert on Detail Shaping | Creating Pipes From Morta (Trever Talbert)

Stems

Pre-molded stems

Hand cut stems

The basis for the following section was written by Tyler Lane for his website, and is used by permission.

Since the majority of pipes are made of stems that were pre-formed, I think it is safe to say that stems were largely an afterthought for most pipes. I suspect that when most folks think of pipe making, they think of stummel shaping and stem fitting. I do not think it even crosses the mind of the majority of hobbyist pipe makers to actually hand cut stems. I am of the opinion that this is an unfortunate mistake. The stem, both functionally and aesthetically, is a huge part of the success of a pipe. Here's why:

1. Most flow problems in a pipe are in the stem. If you have ever had a wet smoker that whistled when you drew through the pipe when empty, I can almost guarantee you the whistle and wetness were caused by the stem. Lack of care in the stem is the demise of many pipes.

2. The comfort of the stem in one's mouth can have a major influence on whether or not it becomes a favorite of the smoker.

3. Because of the variations on shape, size and proportion of stummels are infinite, but the economical feasibility of manufacturing pre-formed stems requires a very limited number of shapes and sizes, using pre-formed stems requires compromises on pipe design. By contrast, stems made expressly to complete the design of a singular pipe offers the opportunity for the most aesthetically pleasing pipe.

4. Vulcanite is commonly considered the most comfortable stem material in the teeth. Its main drawback is that it oxidizes and therefore requires maintenance; however, the high-grade German vulcanite typically used for hand cut stems is a MUCH superior material to the vulcanite used for pre-formed stems. As such, the German vulcanite used for hand cut stems oxidizes so little that it requires little more care than the bowl of the pipe, while retaining its comfort advantage over acrylic.

All that said, I do offer some pointers on using pre-formed stems because I recognize the economic necessity of needing to start pipe making with compromises. Since we cannot buy pre-formed stummels, and start pipe making by fitting hand cut bits to pre-formed stummels, we opt for the choice to make stummels and fit pre-formed stems. It is a fine place to start, and thanks to the Pimo tenon turning tool, a relatively inexpensive place to start.

Tyler Lane on Drilling Vulcanite Rod | Turning Tenons | Cutting the Slit

Trever Talbert on Stem Work

Delrin tenons

Delrin is the brand name for an acetal resin engineering plastic invented and sold by DuPont. Often marketed and used as a metal substitute, Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction, and wear-resistant plastic capable of operating in temperatures in excess of 90 degrees celsius (approx 200 degrees Fahrenheit). According to the material safety data sheet from DuPont, the material has a slight odor of formaldehyde.

Other names for this compound include: polyoxymethylene (POM), acetal resin, polytrioxane and polyformaldehyde.

The Food and Drug Administration has approved Delrin for use in the food industry.

Delrin has proven to be an excellent material for stem tenons in pipe making. It is self-lubricating, and strong. Its strength can also be a disadvantage through--should a pipe with a Delrin tenon be dropped, the shank might break instead of the tenon. Shank repairs are, of course, much more problematic then stem replacement, or repairs to a broken tenon. Another disadvantage is Delrin also limits the shape of the stem near the shank of the pipe where the Delrin is glued into the stem. This is especially problematic for saddle or 1/2 saddle stems where the design must accommodate the location of the Delrin instead of simply worrying about the air way itself. Still, Delrin is the prefered tenon material of many pipe makers, and an excellent alternative to cutting tenons into hand cut stems, or turning down the tenons on pre-molded stems.

See Using Delrin Tenons for a complete outline of how to use Delrin tenons.


Stem inserts

Stem inserts are used as accents by many pipe makers. To clarify, inserts become part of the stem and are not to be confused with shank extensions, which become part of the stummel (see Shank Extensions), although some designs do blur these distinctions. Stem inserts are most often made from material that contrast with the stummel and stem, so lighter materials, or materials that contain lighter components to them, tend to be the most aesthetically pleasing. Popular with pipe makers is Ivory, (which can be purchased legally and used ethically), antler, horn, bone, boxwood, and many other exotic hardwoods. Most often an end cap of the same material used for the stem is used to sandwich in the insert material. See Stem Inserts for suggested techniques.


Finishing

This is a critical aspect of pipe making that is often the demise of an otherwise nice pipe. Finishing a pipe can take often take as long, or longer, than the shaping of the pipe. Care in this process is worth it, as the result will be both beautiful and lasting.

Sanding | Staining | Polishing | Rustication | Sand blasting | Stamping | Trever Talbert on Finishing


Tooling

Machines

Machines can be a huge asset while making pipes. Each pipe maker finds and refines their own methods, so the machines used vary greatly, but the following types of machines are common to professional and serious amateur pipe makers.

Wood Lathe | Drill Press | Metal Lathe | Band Saw | Dremel | Belt Sander | Disk Sander | Buffer

Hand Tools

In addition to the hand tools listed in the Basic Tools section, most professional and serious amateur pipe makers will want to acquire the following:

Tools for stamping or marking

Custom made stamp with name and/or logo: Most US pipe makers are using Paul at A&M steel stamps. He has made something of a specialty out of supplying pipe makers. The angles of the steel he uses is designed for wood and will cut cleaner than generic stamps.

A & M Steel Stamps
55 Windsor Ave,
Mineola, N.Y. 11501
Phone: 516-741-6223
E-mail: mailto:amsteelstamps@yahoo.com

A set of generic 1/16" to 1/8" letter and number stamps is also helpful. 3/32" may be the ideal size, but is more difficult to find, and more expensive. Harbor freight sometimes has the 1/16" set and almost always has the 1/8" stamp set stamps. Brownells has 1/16", 3/32", and interesting looking stamp guide.

Drills and Bits

Materials and Supplies

CHINA

Mindong: Briar; Bamboo; Horn.

DENMARK

P.E.Hermann: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies.

Pia Pipes: Spoon bits, assorted briar blocks and stems (Tom Eltang)

GERMANY

Dan Pipe: Pipe Kits; Briar; Preformed stems, Ebonite rod, Assorted finishing supplies.

Marco Janzen - Hermann von Appen: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies.

SEM: Ebonite Rod

GREECE

Alexander Briar Pipes: Greek Briar

Amadeus Pipes: Greek Briar

ITALY

Volontà Anselmo a.s.: Ebonite Rod

Romeo Briar: Italian Briar

Calabria Pipe: Italian Briar

La Radica Srl: Italian Briar

SPAIN

Jaume Hom: Spanish Briar

Jean Pierre Soler: Spanish Briar

USA

J.H.Lowe: owned & operated by Tim West: Briar; Pipe Kits; Rod - Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Preformed Stems - Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Shank Repair Bands; Finishing Products - Buffs, Compounds, Abrasives, Stains, Wax; Machine Parts - Tenon Cutters, Arbors, Sanding Discs, Mortise Drill; Tools - Drills, Taps, Spade, Bits; Miscellaneous - Bone Screws, Delrin Tenons, Teflon Push Sets, Top Bowls, Bamboo, Calabash Bowls.

Briar Pipe Tooling: owned & operated by Trent Rudat: Lathe chuck jaws customized for pipemakers; Silver & Deming bits ground for tobacco chamber boring; Any custom tooling to your specifications & requirements.

Delvie's Plastics Inc.: Acrylic Rod for Stems; Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines.

Grizzly Industrial, Inc.: Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines.

Jamestown Distributors: Taper Point Drill Bits; Abrasives.

Parks Pipes: Briar Blocks.

Pipe Makers Emporium: Briar; Preformed Stems - Ebonite, Cumberland & Acrylic/Lucite; Rod - Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Finishing Products.

GreatGoodsRUS: Briar

TenonWorks: Briar; Preformed Stems

Vermont Freehand (eBay Store): Briar; Preformed Stems.

The American Smoking Pipe Co.: Briar; Preformed Stems.

Masecraft Supply Company: Assorted Natural & Alternative Stem, stem insert, shank extension materials.

A & M Steel Stamps (custom stamp maker used by many US pipemakers): 55 Windsor Ave, Mineola, N.Y. 11501; Phone: 516-741-6223; E-mail: mailto:amsteelstamps@yahoo.com

Ken Lamb: Chucks, Bits, Cutters, etc.

Caswell: Buffing supplies.

McMaster-Carr Supply Co.: Huge general supply catalog, easy to find what you need & order, good prices on many items.

OnlineMetals.com: Delrin, stainless tubing, brass, etc...