Pipe Packing and Smoking techniques: Difference between revisions

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The information presented here was originally formed from the excellent [http://www.aspipes.org/faq/faq/official.html Alt.Smokers.Pipes FAQ]
[[File:Vincent Van Gogh - Self-portrait with pipe.jpg|thumb|300px|Vincent Van Gogh - Self-portrait with pipe, Oil on canvas, Painted in Paris, in the Spring of 1886]]'''''The information presented here was originally formed from an excellent Alt.Smokers.Pipes FAQ'''''
   
   
== Selecting your first pipe ==
== Selecting your first pipe ==
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=== Material ===
=== Material ===
[[Image:costello1.gif|thumb|[[Castello]] Old Antiquari GG pipe made of '''briar wood''', courtesy of pipes2smoke.com]]
[[Image:costello1.gif|thumb|[[Castello]] Old Antiquari GG pipe made of '''briar wood''', courtesy of pipes2smoke.com]]
For your first pipe, you'd do well to select one made of [[Materials_and_Construction#Briar|briar]], the [[Pipe Making|pipe-making]] material most commonly used due to its durability, heat resistance, and pleasing appearance. Other materials such as [[Materials_and_Construction#Clay|clay]], [[Materials_and_Construction#Meerschaum|meerschaum]] and porcelain are also used to make pipes, but these materials are fragile and lack the smoking characteristics and ease of use of briar. [[Materials_and_Construction#Corncob|Corncob]] pipes are the least expensive option for a first pipe, and they are a viable alternative to briar; however, they often have very small bowls—the part of the pipe that holds the tobacco—and brittle plastic stems that are quite easy to bite through.
For your first pipe, you'd do well to select one made of [[Materials_and_Construction#Briar|briar]], the [[Pipe Making|pipe-making]] material most commonly used due to its durability, heat resistance, and pleasing appearance. Other materials such as [[Materials_and_Construction#Clay|clay]], [[Materials_and_Construction#Meerschaum|meerschaum]] and porcelain are also used to make pipes, but these materials are fragile and lack the smoking characteristics and ease of use of briar. [[Materials_and_Construction#Corncob|Corncob]] pipes are the least expensive option for a first pipe, and they are a viable alternative to briar that offers a predictable smoking experience whereas briar pipes very considerably. Potential disadvantages to cobs are they often have very small bowls—the part of the pipe that holds the tobacco—and brittle plastic stems that are quite easy to bite through, although replacement stems are available, and extremely inexpensive.


Most briar pipes have stems made of vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic); either material works fine, and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice. Vulcanite is softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is more durable and resists oxidation.
Most briar pipes have stems made of vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic). Either material works fine, and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice. Vulcanite is softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is more durable and resists oxidation.


See Also: [[Materials and Construction]] and [[What Makes a Good Briar Pipe]] by R.D. Field
See Also: [[Materials and Construction]] and [[What Makes a Good Briar Pipe]] by R.D. Field


=== Shape and size ===
=== Shape and size ===
The shape of a pipe is entirely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe smokers prefer pipes that are bent, as they "hang" better, putting less strain on the teeth and jaw. Others prefer straight-stemmed pipes, predominately for aesthetic reasons, but also because it is easier to insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that occasionally collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed study of pipe shapes and pipe anatomy, see the [http://www.aspipes.org/shapes/shapes.html alt.smokers.pipes home page guide] or the [http://www.fujipub.com/ooops/pipeshap.html OoOPS Guide to Identifying Pipes].
The shape of a pipe is entirely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe smokers prefer pipes that are bent, as they "hang" better, putting less strain on the teeth and jaw. Others prefer straight-stemmed pipes, predominately for aesthetic reasons and that it keeps the smoke out of the eyes, but also because it is easier to insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that occasionally collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed study of pipe shapes and pipe anatomy, see [[Materials and Construction]] or the [http://www.fujipub.com/ooops/pipeshap.html OoOPS Guide to Identifying Pipes].


In terms of size, you'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco to finish comfortably, initially.
In terms of size, you'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco to finish comfortably, initially.
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=== Varieties ===
=== Varieties ===
;"Drugstore" Tobaccos
===="Drugstore" Tobaccos====
:Generally, you will be better off purchasing your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends found in discount stores or supermarkets are made from lower-quality tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for preservation and "taste enhancement" alter the way a tobacco smokes, usually for the worse. Of course, there is no harm in sampling these tobaccos; you may discover that one such blend is just your cup of tea. Most "drugstore blends" have been around for decades, so they must have something going for them.
:Generally, you will be better off purchasing your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends found in discount stores or supermarkets are made from lower-quality tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for preservation and "taste enhancement" alter the way the tobacco smokes, usually for the worse. Some additives have negative effects on the smoking qualities, causing tongue bite, and can even taint, "ghost", or otherwise sour a pipe for subsiquant bowls. Of course, there is no harm in sampling these tobaccos; you may even discover that one such blend is just your cup of tea. Many "drugstore blends" have been around for decades, so they must have something going for them. Simply note it would be wise to avoid sampling suspect tobaccos in one's better pipes, and not to judge your overall pipe smoking experience on them alone.
:If you live in an area where there are no tobacconists, you can always shop online, or you might try the drugstore-supermarket brands, Captain Black (Americas no. 1 selling pipe tobacco) which is very mild, and flavorful, or Borkum Riff, a bit hotter and wetter smoking. Granted, they may not satisfy the connoisseur's refined tastes. They are tobacco for the masses, but they aren't too bad. The large tins are usually fresh. The small pouches may not be.


;Aromatics vs. non-aromatics
====Faux Pipe Tobaccos (a relative term)====
:This is a new variety of "pipe" tobacco which has emerged recently (2009) in America, and posibly other countries. It is actually roll-your-own cigarette tobacco, which is being marketed as Premium Pipe Tobacco, to avoid the ridiculously, high taxes and regulatory requirements on cigarette tobacco. In a pipe it's not so good, I think, compared to real pipe tobacco. Oddly enough, though, it seems to work fine in cigarettes.  On the other hand, it is tobacco which can be smoked in a pipe, and it is you who decides, good or bad, not me or the government.
 
 
===Aromatics vs. non-aromatics===
:These are the two broadest subdivisions of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning smokers tend to go for an "aromatic" tobacco, which has been "cased" or "topped" with flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while those converting from cigars or cigarettes often prefer an "non-aromatic" or "natural" tobacco.
:These are the two broadest subdivisions of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning smokers tend to go for an "aromatic" tobacco, which has been "cased" or "topped" with flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while those converting from cigars or cigarettes often prefer an "non-aromatic" or "natural" tobacco.


:;Aromatics
====Aromatics====
::A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped with a natural flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics, which can lead to problems smoking them. These problems can be avoided if care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the pipe.
::A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped or cased with natural flavorings. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics due to these flavorings, which can lead to problems smoking them. These problems can be avoided if care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the pipe. Do not be afraid of all aromatics, as many well respected high quality tobaccos fall in this category, and many experienced pipe smokers enjoy them.


:;Non-aromatics
====Non-aromatics====
::These are tobaccos that contain no flavored additives; in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no additives whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water.
::These are tobaccos that contain no flavored additives; in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no additives whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water.


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The most common technique for packing a pipe is the "three layer" method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is evenly packed from top to bottom; this is done by packing each layer progressively tighter. Trickle tobacco into the bowl until it is slightly overfull, then press very lightly with your finger until the bowl appears half full. Fill the pipe again and press down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4 full. Finally, overfill the pipe and press the top layer down fairly firmly. When finished the tobacco should feel "springy" to the touch. If it has no give at all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an indentation, it is packed too loosely. Finally, test the "draw" by sucking air through the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about like that felt when sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw doesn't feel right, then empty the bowl and start over. A slightly different touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the cut and moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second nature with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading your pipe without even thinking about it.
The most common technique for packing a pipe is the "three layer" method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is evenly packed from top to bottom; this is done by packing each layer progressively tighter. Trickle tobacco into the bowl until it is slightly overfull, then press very lightly with your finger until the bowl appears half full. Fill the pipe again and press down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4 full. Finally, overfill the pipe and press the top layer down fairly firmly. When finished the tobacco should feel "springy" to the touch. If it has no give at all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an indentation, it is packed too loosely. Finally, test the "draw" by sucking air through the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about like that felt when sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw doesn't feel right, then empty the bowl and start over. A slightly different touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the cut and moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second nature with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading your pipe without even thinking about it.
Frequently, the smoke hole may be clogged, when filling and packing the bowl, or during smoking, especially after tamping.  It is not necessary to empty the bowl to correct this. Just remove the tip, and then clear the smoke hole with the reamer tool, a thin steel rod.


If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply can't get the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a method suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the tobacco, reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4" long. The bowl is then packed as described above. Some people have found that this method can make the task of packing a bowl much easier.
Frequently, the tiny smoke hole in the tobacco chamber may become clogged with tobacco, when filling and packing the bowl.  It is not necessary to empty the bowl to correct this problem. Just remove the tip, and then clear the smoke hole with the reamer tool, a thin steel rod.
 
If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply can't get the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a method suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the tobacco, reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4" long. The bowl is then packed as described above. Some people have found that this method can make the task of packing a bowl much easier. This is also known as a "Cube Cut" in witch the tobacco is already sliced into the squares mentioned above. I have found that, although packing the pipe with a "Cube Cut" is easier and quicker, it can lead to tobacco flowing up the stem and into the users mouth, resulting in a rather unpleasant experience.


A recent pipe-packing technique known as "The Frank Method" has grown in favor, presented at the 2004 Chicagoland Pipe Show. See the following links: [http://www.newyorkpipeclub.com/FrankCentral.html New York Pipe Club's presentation] or [http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze43wza/franck.html Jim Murray's site]. Here's a set of YouTube videos posted by Herr Frank demonstrating his pipe filling method [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJP0JaNRw6Q Frank Method].
A recent pipe-packing technique known as "The Frank Method" has grown in favor, presented at the 2004 Chicagoland Pipe Show. See the following links: [http://www.newyorkpipeclub.com/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=415823&module_id=37917 New York Pipe Club's presentation] or [http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze43wza/franck.html Jim Murray's site]. Here's a set of YouTube videos posted by Herr Frank demonstrating his pipe filling method [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJP0JaNRw6Q Frank Method].


=== Lighting your pipe ===
=== Lighting your pipe ===
Barring such bizarre contraptions as parabolic mirrors, lasers, and miniature blowtorches, there are three ways to light your pipe: with a match, with a butane lighter, or with a fluid lighter (e.g. a "Zippo").
Barring such bizarre contraptions as parabolic mirrors, lasers, and miniature blowtorches, there are three ways to light your pipe: with a match, with a butane lighter, or with a fluid lighter (e.g. a "Zippo").


The wooden match is the traditional pipe lighting device. Strike the match and hold it for a second or two while the sulfur burns off. Bring the match to the tobacco surface and, while puffing gently, move the match around the tobacco in a slow, even circle.
[[File:YoungWomanLightingPipeForMan.jpg|thumb|Attractively demonstrated use of the traditional wooden match]]The wooden match is the traditional pipe lighting device. Strike the match and hold it for a second or two while the sulfur burns off. Bring the match to the tobacco surface and, while puffing gently, move the match around the tobacco in a slow, even circle.


Butane lighters are more convenient than matches, and, unlike fluid lighters, there is less risk of imparting an unpleasant taste to your tobacco. If you wish to use a butane lighter, then purchase one that is designed for pipes. Such lighters have an angled gas outlet that makes it easier to direct the flame into the bowl while avoiding burned fingers.
Butane lighters are more convenient than matches, and, unlike fluid lighters, there is less risk of imparting an unpleasant taste to your tobacco. If you wish to use a butane lighter, then purchase one that is designed for pipes. Such lighters have an angled gas outlet that makes it easier to direct the flame into the bowl while avoiding burned fingers.
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;Charring Light
;Charring Light
:The best way to keep your pipe lit is to light it correctly at the beginning. Most people light their pipe twice. Light the pipe as described above and puff a half dozen times or so. Then tamp the surface of the tobacco down with your pipe tool and re-light. The first lighting, often called the "charring light," will char the top of the tobacco and prepare this surface for the second lighting which will, with practice, take you through most of the bowl.
:The best way to keep your pipe lit is to light it correctly at the beginning. Most people light their pipe twice. Light the pipe as described above and puff a half dozen times or so. Then tamp the surface of the tobacco down with your pipe tool and re-light. The first lighting, often called the "charring light" or "false light," will char the top of the tobacco and prepare this surface for the second lighting which will, with practice, take you through most of the bowl.


;Tamping
;Tamping
:While smoking, ash residue will form at the top of the tobacco. This residue should be gently tamped down periodically during the course of a smoke and prior to re-lighting. This tamping serves to keep the tobacco--which expands as it burns--properly packed and promotes even burning. If the pipe has an especially tall bowl, the ash may sometimes become so thick that it is difficult to re-light the tobacco below it. If this occurs, loosen the ash gently with your pipe tool, dump the ash, tamp, and re-light.
:While smoking, ash residue will form at the top of the tobacco. This residue should be gently tamped down periodically during the course of a smoke and prior to re-lighting. This tamping serves to keep the tobacco--which expands as it burns--properly packed and promotes even burning. If the pipe has an especially tall bowl, the ash may sometimes become so thick that it is difficult to re-light the tobacco below it. If this occurs, loosen the ash gently with your pipe tool, dump the ash, tamp, and re-light.
;Clogs
:Sometimes while smoking, the tiny smoke hole in the tobacco chamber may become clogged with tobacco, especially after tamping, and even though you can draw on the pipe, you can't get much smoke.  Assuming there is tobacco remaining to be smoked, just remove the tip, and then clear the smoke hole with the reamer tool, a thin steel rod, and then relight the pipe.


;Smoking Pace
;Smoking Pace
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=== Cleaning ===
=== Cleaning ===
Your pipe should be cleaned after each smoke. To do this, first let the pipe cool and then scoop or dump out any ash and "dottle" (unburned tobacco that sometimes remains in the bottom of the bowl). Do not bang the pipe against a hard surface, as this may result in a cracked shank or broken stem. Believe me, I lost a whole pipe after I did this on a rail over a creek. The pipe broke in half, fell in and sailed down the creek and out into a nearby river. Instead of using brute force, buy a pipe nail; they cost 50¢ and you can use the long end to scoop the tobacco out of the pipe, and afterwards, blow through the empty pipe to remove any remaining dottle. Once the bowl is empty, run a pipe cleaner through the stem until it just enters the bowl and remove it. Repeat with additional cleaners until they come out clean (many people, myself included, will use both ends of a pipe cleaner before switching to a new one). Finally, take one of the used cleaners, bend it into a "U" shape, and wipe out the ash clinging to the sides of the bowl. [NOTE: Some people prefer to leave the ash in the bowl, believing that it promotes a good cake. If you like, try both ways and see what works best for you.] Set the pipe aside to dry completely. *Ideally*, the pipe should be allowed to "rest" for around 48 hours before smoking it again, but you might have to forgo this luxury until you have enough pipes to do so.
Your pipe should be cleaned after each smoke. To do this, first let the pipe cool and then scoop or dump out any ash and "dottle" (unburned tobacco that sometimes remains in the bottom of the bowl). Do not bang the pipe against a hard surface, as this may result in a cracked shank or broken stem. Believe me, I lost a whole pipe after I did this on a rail over a creek. The pipe broke in half, fell in and sailed down the creek and out into a nearby river. Instead of using brute force, buy a pipe nail; they cost $1-$2 and you can use the long end to scoop the tobacco out of the pipe, and afterwards, blow through the empty pipe to remove any remaining dottle. Once the bowl is empty, run a pipe cleaner through the stem until it just enters the bowl and remove it. Repeat with additional cleaners until they come out clean (many people, myself included, will use both ends of a pipe cleaner before switching to a new one). Finally, take one of the used cleaners, bend it into a "U" shape, and wipe out the ash clinging to the sides of the bowl. [NOTE: Some people prefer to leave the ash in the bowl, believing that it promotes a good cake. If you like, try both ways and see what works best for you.] Set the pipe aside to dry completely. *Ideally*, the pipe should be allowed to "rest" for around 48 hours before smoking it again, but you might have to forgo this luxury until you have enough pipes to do so.


Periodically, you'll want to clean your pipe a bit more thoroughly. In addition to the steps above, you'll also want to carefully remove the stem from the shank and wipe out the "gunk" that collects in the mortise; a cotton swab (e.g. a "Q-tip") works well for this task. Some people also advocate periodic cleaning of the stem and shank with pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol (preferably some form of grain alcohol), particularly if the pipe begins to taste a bit musty or sour. Do not, however, get alcohol anywhere near the bowl of a meerschaum pipe.
Periodically, you'll want to clean your pipe a bit more thoroughly. In addition to the steps above, you'll also want to carefully remove the stem from the shank and wipe out the "gunk" that collects in the mortise; a cotton swab (e.g. a "Q-tip") works well for this task. Some people also advocate periodic cleaning of the stem and shank with pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol (preferably some form of grain alcohol), particularly if the pipe begins to taste a bit musty or sour. Do not, however, get alcohol anywhere near the bowl of a meerschaum pipe.

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