Pipe Packing and Smoking techniques

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The articles presented here were originally formed from the excellent FAQ from the Alt.Smokers.Pipes FAQ[1]

Beginning Pipe Smoking

How should I select my first pipe?

The short answer: "Pick one you like." If you need more guidance than that, keep reading.

MATERIAL. For your first pipe, you'll probably want one made of briar. "Briar" is wood from the burl (that portion between the root and the trunk) of the white heath (Erica arborea), a small tree or bush that grows in the Mediterranean region. Briar is durable, heat- resistant, and pleasing in appearance. There are other materials-- such as clay, meerschaum, and porcelain--that are also used to make pipes, but these materials are fragile and lack the smoking characteristics and ease of use of briar. Corncob pipes are the least expensive option for a first pipe, and they are a viable alternative to briar; however, they often have very small bowls (the bowl is the part of the pipe that holds the tobacco) and brittle plastic stems (the part that you place in your mouth) that are quite easy to bite through. Most briar pipes have stems made of vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic); either material works fine, and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice. Vulcanite is softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is more durable and resists oxidation.


PRICE. Pipes range in price from a couple of dollars to several thousand; it is recommended that you stay closer to the lower end of this range for your first pipe. By purchasing a moderately-priced pipe, you will not be out a large sum if you determine that pipe smoking isn't for you. A reasonably good quality "basket pipe" (so called because most tobacconists keep their lower-priced, "no-name" pipes in an open basket near the sales counter) can be had for as little as $15, and many "name brand" manufacturers produce pipes in the $35-60 range. You'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco for to comfortably finish initially. Try not to purchase one of those pipes you may find in plastic bubble packaging at your local discount store if you can avoid it; instead, seek out a good tobacconist and ask for his or her recommendation. Not only will this give you a broader selection from which to choose, but the tobacconist is likely to have some good advice on how to get started. Don't be afraid to tell the shop owner that you're a novice. He or she will figure this out pretty quickly on their own anyway, and it is in their own best interest to help you select a pipe and tobacco that they think you'll enjoy. If you don't know where to find a reputable tobacconist, check the Pipes Digest Resource Guide at:

http://www.pipes.org/resource_guide.html

or the ASP Home Page at:

http://www.aspipes.org/

or ask the newsgroup for a recommendation. While you're buying the pipe, pick up a package of pipe cleaners (the soft, cotton ones are best for most purposes), and a cheap "pipe tool" or "tamper"; you'll need them.

FILTERS. You should not be inhaling smoke, so a filter is, in the opinion of many, superfluous. One major drawback to most filtering systems is that they tend to affect the taste of the tobacco--for the worse--if not kept meticulously clean. With that said, in some parts of the world, particularly central Europe, pipe filters are quite common. Many of the pipes sold there have a cavity in the shank (that part of the pipe that connects the bowl to the stem) designed to accomodate 9mm filters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a filter in your pipe. If you prefer filters, then by all means use them. Nevertheless, you don't need them.

SHAPE. This is purely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe smokers prefer pipes that are bent, as they "hang" easier, putting less strain on the teeth and jaw. Personally, I prefer straight- stemmed pipes, predominately for aesthetic reasons, but also because it is easier to insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that occasionally collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed study of pipe shapes and pipe anatomy, see The alt.smokers.pipes home page guide at:

http://www.aspipes.org/shapes/shapes.html

or The OoOPS Guide to Indentifying Pipes at:

http://www.fujipub.com/ooops/pipeshap.html

SECONDS. A true "second" is a pipe that has some kind of flaw (which is almost always cosmetic in nature) and is therefore not deemed worthy to carry the manufacturer's usual brand name. Typically, such pipes are simply stamped "Imported Briar," or something similar; however, some manufacturers have distinctive stampings for their cosmetically-challenged pipes (such as Peterson's "Irish Seconds"). You can find some very good pipes at a reduced price because they have surface flaws--pits, putty "fills" in the briar, imperfect carving, etc.--that do not affect the way they smoke at all. Many of the inexpensive pipes that you will find at your tobacconist (to include "basket pipes" and most "house brands") are "seconds" of one sort or another.

ESTATE PIPES. In the pipe smoking community, "estate" is a euphemism for "used." By buying an estate pipe, it is possible to get a high quality pipe for much less than it would cost new. (It is also possible to buy a piece of junk at a greatly inflated price, so caveat emptor applies.) While these pipes are usually thoroughly cleaned before they are sold, some people are appalled at the idea of smoking a pipe that was smoked by someone else; I wonder if these people bring their own silverware to restaurants. It should be noted that the previous owner's smoking habits will have at least a minor affect on the taste the pipe will impart to tobacco.

How should I select my first tobacco?

This question lends itself to the short answer given for how to select your first pipe, "Pick one you like."". If you have had experience with only cigarettes and cigars, you're in for a real treat. The variety of pipe tobaccos is positively staggering, and the flavor of a blend is influenced not only by its component tobaccos, but also by myriad other factors such as the style of cut and the pipe used to smoke it. The only way to determine which sort of tobacco is right for you is to try a number of very different blends to decide which general type you like, and then proceed from there. Some of us are constantly searching for the perfect blend, affectionately known as "The Holy Grail."

"DRUGSTORE" TOBACCOS. Generally, you will be better off purchasing your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends found in discount stores or supermakets are made from lower quality tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for preservation and "taste enhancement" alter the way a tobacco smokes, usually for the worse. Of course, there is no harm at all in sampling these tobaccos; you may discover that one such blend is just your cup of tea. Most "drugstore blends" have been around for decades, so they must have something going for them.

AROMATICS VS. NON-AROMATICS. These are the two broadest subdivisions of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning smokers tend to go for an "aromatic" tobacco, which has been "cased" or "topped" with flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while those converting from cigars or cigarettes often prefer an "non-aromatic" or "natural" tobacco.

AROMATICS. A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped with a natural flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics, which can lead to problems smoking them. These problems can be avoided if care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the pipe.

NON-AROMATICS. These are tobaccos that contain no flavored additives; in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no additives whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water. [SIDE NOTE: You may see the word "English" used as a descriptor for non-aromatic or natural blends. To some purists, an English blend contains only Virginias and latakia (see Pipe Tobaccos), and the term is used in a broad sense by some to refer to almost any unflavored tobacco (at one time, British law prohibited adulterants in tobacco). Typically, however, the term is used to describe a non-aromatic blend that contains latakia.]

How should I store my tobacco?

The moisture content of a tobacco affects the way it smokes and tastes; a tobacco that is too moist or too dry will not offer a pleasing smoke. One way to determine if your tobacco has the proper level of moisture is the "pinch test." Take a pinch of your tobacco and squeeze it tightly for a couple of seconds, then release it. If it immediately starts to "unravel," your tobacco is in good shape. If it stays in a tight clump, it is too wet. If it crumbles, it is too dry.

Tobacco purchased in tins should retain its moisture for several weeks after opening. Blends purchased in "bulk," or tinned tobaccos that are to be stored for many weeks or months after opening should be stored in some type of container. Standard "ziplock" sandwich bags are not airtight, and your tobacco will dry out over time if they are used for storage. Similar bags designed for use in the freezer are better, but still aren't completely satisfactory for anything other than relatively short term storage. Some people advocate the use of multiple bags in a Tupperware container, "Mason" jars, or heat-sealed, vacuum-pack bags. All of these methods are satisfactory; however, I prefer to use bail-top jars with rubber gaskets.

If your tobacco is too moist, you can leave the container open slightly, while monitoring it closely. If your tobacco has dried out, it is usually possible to revive it. (There is a point beyond which no amount of re-moistening is going to restore the flavor of a tobacco, but that time span is generally measured in months or years.) Some advocate placing a slice of apple or potato in the tobacco container. This will work, but if left too long, you run the risk of introducing mold with this technique. Unlike cheese, the flavor of tobacco is not improved by mold, and once your container has been so contaminated, it is almost impossible to completely rid it of the mold spores that will attempt to infest any tobacco placed in that container in the future. A much safer method is to spray a tiny amount of water into the container and reseal it for a day or two, or purchase a ceramic humidifying disk from your tobacconist and place it in the storage container.

How do I "break in" a pipe?

How should I "pack" my pipe?

How should I light my pipe?

How do I keep my pipe lit?

How should I clean my pipe?

Why is my tongue "charred"?

Why is my pipe "gurgling"?