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Using Delrin Tenons: Difference between revisions
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==The Kurt Huhn Method== | ==The Kurt Huhn Method== | ||
===Intro=== | ===Intro=== | ||
The basis for this article originally appeared as a sticky on the Pipe Makers Forum, and written by [[Kurt Huhn]]: | The basis for this article originally appeared as a sticky on the Pipe Makers Forum, and written by [[Kurt Huhn]]: | ||
First, decide on your tenon diameter. Most folks will use 5/16 | First, decide on your tenon diameter. Most folks will use 5/16", but 3/8" and 1/4" are not uncommon. | ||
Next, find a drill bit that's going to give you the right size hole for your delrin. As any machinist will tell you, 5/16 | Next, find a drill bit that's going to give you the right size hole for your delrin. As any machinist will tell you, 5/16" is not 5/16" from one drill bit or piece of stock to the next. In this case, you can count on the delrin being the same size, as these are manufactured to rather close tolerances. Like it or not, you're going to need to experiment on briar. other woods will not react the same as briar to drilling, and will not give you an accurate gauge of hole size. Scraps of briar are fine, as long as you can drill them using the same methods you intend to use when you make a pipe. | ||
Have a selection of drill bits handy. Use bits from different manufacturers, as one manufacturer may have different tolerances than another. The design of the drill bits may also play a part in making a hole that's final size is different from other bits. Drill with these bits using the same methods of pipe manufacturing - the methods you use will be important in determining final hole size. | Have a selection of drill bits handy. Use bits from different manufacturers, as one manufacturer may have different tolerances than another. The design of the drill bits may also play a part in making a hole that's final size is different from other bits. Drill with these bits using the same methods of pipe manufacturing - the methods you use will be important in determining final hole size. | ||
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* chuck the block in and line everything up along my construction lines for airway, mortis, and tobacco chamber. I drill the mortis/airway first. | * chuck the block in and line everything up along my construction lines for airway, mortis, and tobacco chamber. I drill the mortis/airway first. | ||
* set the spindle speed for 500RPM or less. | * set the spindle speed for 500RPM or less. | ||
* face the shank with a 1-1/4 | * face the shank with a 1-1/4" precision Forstner bit. I take care not to use to heavy or aggressive a hand in this step. You want to avoid grain tearout. | ||
* drill the mortis, about 3/4 of a turn of the tailstock at a time. This works out to about 1/12 or so of an inch for each advancement. After each advancement, I remove the bit completely from the hole, and clear all the dust and chips. The depth is roughly 1/2 | * drill the mortis, about 3/4 of a turn of the tailstock at a time. This works out to about 1/12 or so of an inch for each advancement. After each advancement, I remove the bit completely from the hole, and clear all the dust and chips. The depth is roughly 1/2" inch when the mortis is completely drilled (at this point I continue on with the airway and tobacco chamber, that's not covered here.) | ||
====Drill the stem:==== | ====Drill the stem:==== | ||
* I chuck the rod stock and face with a 1-1/4 | * I chuck the rod stock and face with a 1-1/4" precision Forstner bit | ||
* I drill the stock somewhat more aggressively than the briar. Vulcanite, Cumberland, and acrylic are more stable than briar under heat and pressure while drilling. Don't go too nuts here, because you can burn the mortis in the stem if you use too much pressure or speed. | * I drill the stock somewhat more aggressively than the briar. Vulcanite, Cumberland, and acrylic are more stable than briar under heat and pressure while drilling. Don't go too nuts here, because you can burn the mortis in the stem if you use too much pressure or speed. | ||
* total hole depth in the stem material is about 1/4 | * total hole depth in the stem material is about 1/4" to 1/2" depending on stem shape. | ||
* I also use a bit that gives me a flat bottom in the stem mortis. This way the amount of epoxy in contact with the smoke is minimal, and the opportunity for a void at the end of the delrin is minimal. | * I also use a bit that gives me a flat bottom in the stem mortis. This way the amount of epoxy in contact with the smoke is minimal, and the opportunity for a void at the end of the delrin is minimal. | ||
* continue to drill the airway in the stem | * continue to drill the airway in the stem | ||
====Drill the airway in the delrin:==== | ====Drill the airway in the delrin:==== | ||
* Slice off a length of delrin approximately the length I need. I usually go about an 1/8 | * Slice off a length of delrin approximately the length I need. I usually go about an 1/8" longer just to be sure I can bottom out the tenon in the mortis in the stummel. | ||
* I set the spindle speed to about 1200 RPM to drill delrin. Delrin is extremely stable under heat and pressure, and is self-lubricating. This also mitigates any risk you might have of using too much forward pressure and setting the drill bit off-course. | * I set the spindle speed to about 1200 RPM to drill delrin. Delrin is extremely stable under heat and pressure, and is self-lubricating. This also mitigates any risk you might have of using too much forward pressure and setting the drill bit off-course. | ||
* I do not face the delrin | * I do not face the delrin | ||
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[[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrill.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrilling.JPG]] | [[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrill.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrilling.JPG]] | ||
Next we measure for the depth of the first drilling. Shown is a 5/32 | Next we measure for the depth of the first drilling. Shown is a 5/32" tapered drill, which does an excellent job of drilling. 5/32" tapered also provides an open draw while tapering down to a smaller hole. Stop about 1/2" to 3/4" short of the end and then follow with a 1/16" drill on through the stem. This last section will eventually flatten out and be funneled wider at the bit end of the stem to provide for a continuous airflow, and yet facilitate a thin comfortable bit: | ||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drilldepth.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling.JPG]] | [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drilldepth.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling.JPG]] | ||
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[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling2.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling3.JPG]] | [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling2.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling3.JPG]] | ||
Next we change to the 1/16 | Next we change to the 1/16" drill, and drill completely through the stem. Again, this must be done very slowly and the drill removed to clear chips: | ||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling4.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling5.JPG]] | [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling4.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling5.JPG]] | ||
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===Cleaning up=== | ===Cleaning up=== | ||
The draft hole can be sanded up though most of it's length by wrapping sandpaper around the 1/16 | The draft hole can be sanded up though most of it's length by wrapping sandpaper around the 1/16" drill bit. The final 3/4" or so cannot be reached, but it will be carefully opened, filed, sanded, and buffed later. Steel wool does a nice job cleaning up the tenon end after the sanding. | ||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafsanding.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafstellwool.JPG]] | [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafsanding.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafstellwool.JPG]] | ||