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=== Polishing stems === | === Polishing stems === | ||
Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green color. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. When oxidation does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe for this treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem surface, which will be roughened by this treatment. | Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green color caused by a reaction between sunlight and the sulfur in the rubber. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. Products such as Obsidian Oil also claim to stave off the development of oxidation. When oxidation does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe for this treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem surface, which will be roughened by this treatment. | ||
Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar into your face. | The method now commonly preferred to a bleach soak is to soak the stem for up to an hour in a solution of warm water and oxygenated bleach such as Oxyclean, then rinse and scrub thoroughly with melamine foam such as a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. While the method will remove paint from a stamped stem logo, it will not damage metal fittings. However, the stem will often be in need of either buffing or sanding with micromesh sanding pads to return it to its original shiny condition. | ||
Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar into your face. Extremely deep oxidation is almost certain to require sanding to remove, and may only be visible under angled light in a dark room. An oxygenated bleach soak can help in bringing deep oxidation to the surface, but will not eliminate the problem completely if the oxidation is severe. | |||
=== Care for meerschaum pipes === | === Care for meerschaum pipes === | ||