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Pipe Making: Difference between revisions
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[[Image:pipemakers_logo.jpg|thumb|350px|]]The Pipe Making subsection of '''''Pipedia''''' serves as the Wiki home of [http://www.pipemakersforum.com/index.php the PipemakersForum.com]. Much of what appears here is gleaned from the Forum. We highly recommend reading and participation in the forum in addition to reading and contributing here. | [[Image:pipemakers_logo.jpg|thumb|350px|]]The Pipe Making subsection of '''''Pipedia''''' serves as the Wiki home of [http://www.pipemakersforum.com/index.php the PipemakersForum.com]. Much of what appears here is gleaned from the Forum. We highly recommend reading and participation in the forum in addition to reading and contributing here. | ||
New pipe makers | New pipe makers may find this chart helpful. Classic [[Pipe Shapes]], by Bill Burney: | ||
[[Image:teddy_shaping.jpg|thumb|350px|[[Teddy Knudsen]] shaping, courtesy Lars Kiel]] | [[Image:teddy_shaping.jpg|thumb|350px|[[Teddy Knudsen]] shaping, courtesy Lars Kiel]] | ||
== Getting Started == | == Getting Started == | ||
Many pipe makers in the US start out with a small | Many pipe makers in the US start out with a small book called [http://www.pimopipecraft.com/book.html Pimo's Guide to Pipe Crafting at Home]. While far from exhaustive, this small book offers many helpful tips on pipe making with minimal tooling. Also helpful is the article [[Pipe Making For The Rank Amateur]], by Bob Everett. [http://pipedia.org/docs/PipeDan_HobbyInstructions.pdf The Dan Pipe Hobby Catalog] has some good basic information as well. | ||
'''A Cautionary Note:''' Because some ultra high grade pipes sell for thousands of dollars, it is tempting for the uninitiated to think they may be able to get rich making pipes, or at least make a decent living. Relatively few pipe makers make their primary living as pipe makers, and it is a very small handful of pipe makers that sell in the upper price ranges. Those that do have unusual talents or gifts and have dedicated a great deal of time developing them. Most also invest a considerable amount of money in equipment and materials. Having said this, pipe making is great fun, and very rewarding in many ways, but be careful--most pipe smokers are not addicted to tobacco, but most pipe makers are addicted to pipe making! | '''A Cautionary Note:''' Because some ultra high grade pipes sell for thousands of dollars, it is tempting for the uninitiated to think they may be able to get rich making pipes, or at least make a decent living. Relatively few pipe makers make their primary living as pipe makers, and it is a very small handful of pipe makers that sell in the upper price ranges. Those that do have unusual talents or gifts and have dedicated a great deal of time developing them. Most also invest a considerable amount of money in equipment and materials. Having said this, pipe making is great fun, and very rewarding in many ways, but be careful--most pipe smokers are not addicted to tobacco, but most pipe makers are addicted to pipe making! | ||
'''Believing:''' "Damn the torpedoes, man, full speed ahead." | |||
==== Pipe Kits:==== | ==== Pipe Kits:==== | ||
Pre-bored pipe making kits with pre-fit stems are a good way to start, especially for those who don't have access to many tools, or previous woodworking experience. With the kit, the new pipe maker can focus their efforts on shaping and finishing the pipe and avoid the pitfalls associated with drilling the tobacco chamber, airway, and mortise, not to mention facing the shank and stem to meet perfectly, and turning the tenon of the stem to fit snugly in the mortise. These steps are all great fun and some first time pipe makers start right in from scratch, but it can be a bit overwhelming and tool intensive for the beginner without a background in woodworking or machining trades. Even with the pipe kit, it is still possible to do some "tweaking" of the airway in the shank and stem, as well as thinning the button area and carefully funneling the slot. Careful attention to tweaking in the generic mechanics of a pipe kit after shaping the stummel and shank can turn it into a really fine pipe, and every bit your own creation. | [[File:VF PipeKits.jpg|thumb|250px|Pipe Kits, courtesy [http://vermontfreehand.com/pipe-kits/ Vermont Freehand], ''Pipedia Underwriter'']]Pre-bored pipe making kits with pre-fit stems are a good way to start, especially for those who don't have access to many tools, or previous woodworking experience. With the kit, the new pipe maker can focus their efforts on shaping and finishing the pipe and avoid the pitfalls associated with drilling the tobacco chamber, airway, and mortise, not to mention facing the shank and stem to meet perfectly, and turning the tenon of the stem to fit snugly in the mortise. These steps are all great fun and some first time pipe makers start right in from scratch, but it can be a bit overwhelming and tool intensive for the beginner without a background in woodworking or machining trades. Even with the pipe kit, it is still possible to do some "tweaking" of the airway in the shank and stem, as well as thinning the button area and carefully funneling the slot. Careful attention to tweaking in the generic mechanics of a pipe kit after shaping the stummel and shank can turn it into a really fine pipe, and every bit your own creation. | ||
Pipe kits generally come in variations of three basic styles intended for bent pipes, straight pipes, or freehand pipes. Several pipe makers also offer custom kits. Kits are available with two different pre-fit stem mounting styles (flush or military mount), and using either ebauchon or plateaux cut briar blocks. | Pipe kits generally come in variations of three basic styles intended for bent pipes, straight pipes, or freehand pipes. Several pipe makers also offer custom kits. Kits are available with two different pre-fit stem mounting styles (flush or military mount), and using either ebauchon or plateaux cut briar blocks. | ||
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Plateaux Briar, as the name suggests, is the top part of the burl. It has a rough pebble top that can be left on for a freehand look or sanded smooth for a traditional appearance. Plateaux comes in different shapes and sizes. The custom pipe kit makers will do the best they can to match your design to the proper block. Plateaux grain tends to run straight or angled. These blocks will generally yield flame grains or an occasional straight grain. They contain generally less flaws than ebauchon, though you don't know what a block will yield until you get into it. | Plateaux Briar, as the name suggests, is the top part of the burl. It has a rough pebble top that can be left on for a freehand look or sanded smooth for a traditional appearance. Plateaux comes in different shapes and sizes. The custom pipe kit makers will do the best they can to match your design to the proper block. Plateaux grain tends to run straight or angled. These blocks will generally yield flame grains or an occasional straight grain. They contain generally less flaws than ebauchon, though you don't know what a block will yield until you get into it. | ||
[http://www.pimopipecraft.com Pimo] offers kits, but | [http://www.pimopipecraft.com Pimo] offers kits, but most pipe makers will recommend obtaining a kit from a pipe maker, such as Steve [[Norse]] at [http://vermontfreehand.com/pipe-kits/ Vermont Freehand], or American Smoking Pipe Co's. ([[Mark Tinsky]]), available at [http://www.amsmoke.com/Services/PipeKit.html The American Smoking Pipe], or from [[Tim West]] (J.H. Lowe), available at [http://www.jhlowe.com/briar.htm J.H.Lowe]. Kits are also available from [http://www.pipemakers.org/ Pipe Makers Emporium], Kim Kendall at [http://www.penguinbriar.com Penguin Briar]. | ||
In '''Denmark''' kits available from [http://shop.hermanns.dk/group.asp?group=54 P.E.Hermann]. In '''Norway''' kits are available from [http://www.pipe-maker.com/ubuild.htm Tabago]. In '''Germany''' kits are available from [http://www.danpipe.de/ Dan Pipe]. | In '''Denmark''' kits available from [http://shop.hermanns.dk/group.asp?group=54 P.E.Hermann]. In '''Norway''' kits are available from [http://www.pipe-maker.com/ubuild.htm Tabago]. In '''Germany''' kits are available from [http://www.danpipe.de/ Dan Pipe]. | ||
=== Basic Tools === | === Basic Tools === | ||
[[Image:Presland_01.jpg|right|thumb|1st October 1945. Mr. Presland is making and selling cherrywood pipes by a roadside near an Allied Forces base in Gloucestershire / GB.]] | |||
It is wise to refrain from investing in expensive tooling until you have made your first few pipes. | It is wise to refrain from investing in expensive tooling until you have made your first few pipes. | ||
'''Tools needed to complete a pipe kit''': | '''Tools needed to complete a pipe kit''': | ||
#Electric Hand drill(variable speed 3/8" or larger) | |||
##Buy or build a jig that will enable you to clamp the drill to your work bench or table. | |||
##Flexible 3" to 5" sanding disk and arbor, and assorted grit sandpaper. | |||
##At least 2 6" buffing wheels and arbors, buffing compounds, Carnuba wax. | |||
#Files(Nicholson makes nice file sets at affordable prices. One can never have too many files of various sizes, shapes and cuts). A round chain saw file is also very handy. | |||
#Coping saw for rough shaping | |||
#Eye protection and respirator or dust masks. | |||
The electric hand drill and accessories is optional. It saves a lot of time, and can be used for many other things should pipe making not be an ongoing interest. Still, it's amazing how much one can do with just files, sandpaper, and elbow grease. | |||
It is best to use only one type of compound on each buffing wheel. Ideally it is good to have four. Two muslin ones for compounds, one muslin one for applying the Carnuba wax, and one flannel wheel for the final buff. | |||
'''Note:''' The above tools are very adequate for working with pipe kits. If you're planning on drilling the stummel (briar block) and then fitting the stem to the block, you will also want either a more elaborate jig for mounting your hand drill, such as is described in the Pimo book, a drill press (drill press frames for holding your hand drill would also work), or a lathe. In addition you will need to buy or make tobacco chamber bits, and buy drill bits for drilling the mortise and airway (see [ | '''Note:''' The above tools are very adequate for working with pipe kits. If you're planning on drilling the stummel (briar block) and then fitting the stem to the block, you will also want either a more elaborate jig for mounting your hand drill, such as is described in the Pimo book, a drill press (drill press frames for holding your hand drill would also work), or a lathe. In addition you will need to buy or make tobacco chamber bits, and buy drill bits for drilling the mortise and airway (see [[Pipe_Making#Tooling|Tooling]]). | ||
=== Basic Supplies === | === Basic Supplies === | ||
The following supplies may be needed to complete a pipe kit: | |||
#Sandpaper in the following grits: 150, 220, 360, 400, and 600. | |||
#Stain of your choice. Use alcohol based analyn dye, or leather dye | |||
#Denatured alcohol for thinning stains and wetting the pipe to see grain and scratches | |||
#Buffing compounds (tan or brown tripoli and white diamond are a good start). | |||
#Carnauba wax for a smooth finish, and/or maybe shellac for a rusticated finish. | |||
Many of these items can be purchased locally. Others can be ordered with your pipe kit. Also see [ | Many of these items can be purchased locally. Others can be ordered with your pipe kit. Also see [[Pipe_Making#Materials_and_Supplies|Materials and Supplies]]. | ||
== Design and R&D == | == Design and R&D == | ||
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== Stummels == | == Stummels == | ||
The "Stummel" is the briar portion of the pipe, which includes the bowl and shank. | The "Stummel" is the briar portion of the pipe, which includes the bowl and shank. | ||
=== Briar === | === Briar === | ||
{{Main|Briar}} | |||
Here are some interesting articles on briar: | Here are some interesting articles on briar: | ||
*[http://pipedia.org/docs/CharacteristicsOfBriar.pdf Characteristics Of Briar] is a very thorough and interesting research paper in .pdf format by G. Tsoumis, N. Kezos, I Fanariotou, E. Voulgaridis, and C. Passialis documenting the various characteristics of briar. | |||
*[[Curing & Treating]], by [[Trever Talbert]] | * [http://pipedia.org/docs/CharacteristicsOfBriar.pdf Characteristics Of Briar] is a very thorough and interesting research paper in .pdf format by G. Tsoumis, N. Kezos, I Fanariotou, E. Voulgaridis, and C. Passialis documenting the various characteristics of briar. | ||
*[[Where to Get Your Briar]], by [[Kurt Huhn]] | * [[Curing & Treating]], by [[Trever Talbert]] | ||
*[[100 Year Old Briar?]], A small collection of information by Bill Unger. | * [[Where to Get Your Briar]], by [[Kurt Huhn]] | ||
*R.C. Hamlin has also written an interesting article on this subject of briar called [http://www.pipeguy.com/briar_factor.htm The Briar Factor]. | * [[100 Year Old Briar?]], A small collection of information by Bill Unger. | ||
*So you think you're a "Briar Afficionado"? This is a short but extremely informative article by [[Rainer Barbi]] available here: [http://www.rdfield.com/Barbi/The_Briar_Saga_1.jpg The Briar Saga Page 1] & [http://www.rdfield.com/Barbi/The_Briar_Saga_2.jpg The Briar Saga Page 2]. | * R.C. Hamlin has also written an interesting article on this subject of briar called [http://www.pipeguy.com/briar_factor.htm The Briar Factor]. | ||
*[[My Visit to A Briar Sawmill]], [[What Makes a Good Briar Pipe]], [[The Art of Sandblasting]], and [[Curing]] all excellent articles by R.D. Field. | * So you think you're a "Briar Afficionado"? This is a short but extremely informative article by [[Rainer Barbi]] available here: [http://www.rdfield.com/Barbi/The_Briar_Saga_1.jpg The Briar Saga Page 1] & [http://www.rdfield.com/Barbi/The_Briar_Saga_2.jpg The Briar Saga Page 2]. | ||
* [[My Visit to A Briar Sawmill]], [[What Makes a Good Briar Pipe]], [[The Art of Sandblasting]], and [[Curing]] all excellent articles by R.D. Field. | |||
=== Morta === | === Morta === | ||
Morta is semi-fossilized wood. It is created when large trees are felled or overturned by geologic activity and become buried in an oxygen-limited fashion, usually in peat or clay. The wood is unable to rot normally so it begins the long process of fossilizing into stone. Morta is a generic term used to describe any semi-fossilized wood of this style. Morta is found in various locations across the globe, usually in marshlands or moors, and varies widely in its durability, age, and potential usefulness for | |||
{{Main|Morta}} | |||
[[Morta]] is semi-fossilized wood. It is created when large trees are felled or overturned by geologic activity and become buried in an oxygen-limited fashion, usually in peat or clay. The wood is unable to rot normally so it begins the long process of fossilizing into stone. [[Morta]] is a generic term used to describe any semi-fossilized wood of this style. [[Morta]] is found in various locations across the globe, usually in marshlands or moors, and varies widely in its durability, age, and potential usefulness for pipe making. [[Trever Talbert]] is one of the pipe makers using [[Morta]] for one of his lines of pipes, and the [[Morta]] he uses is from a local oak forest that covered the Briere area some 3,000+ years ago. Trever describes the process in his article [[Creating Pipes From Morta]]. | |||
=== Other Materials === | |||
Most pipemakers and collectors would probably agree that Briar (a term with considerable range) is the choice for tobacco pipes. Briar grain can be excellent aesthetically for the small-scale work that tobacco pipes are. Briar can also have other properties which are desirable, a sweet, mild, pleasant aroma when cured properly, and a resistance to burning. Still, some pipemakers use other materials, like Ebony (wood), African Blackwood, Morta (fossilized wood), and many other species of wood. | |||
The dust of most wood is an irritant and can sensitize. The dust from Beech, Hemlock, Oak, Oleander, Quebracho, Redwood, Sassafras, and Yew are listed as carcinogens, but little is known about their smoking properties. Although the exact origin of a particular block of briar is often unknown, the fact that it only seems to flourish in remote, mountainous areas, means it probably has less chance of being affected by the pollutants of industry and civilization, and briar has been used in pipemaking since about 1840 according to Rainer Barbi. | |||
I, personally, have seen no examples of European classical pipes made of Catlinite, the Red or Black "Pipestone" used by Native American (Indian) pipemakers. | |||
"It is believed that the Mayan people of Central America were among the first pipe smokers several thousand years ago and archaeologists have found pipes dating from around 2,000 B.C." (Source: http://www.bat.com/ ...British America Tobacco company) | |||
I have used Hard Maple, Black Walnut, and even sticks from the Photenia (Redtip) shrub for experimental pipes, and I also have smoked them regularly. These woods were merely cut and then dried thoroughly for several years. The characteristic smell and taste of each wood is distinctly noticeable when the pipe is first smoked. I smoke my pipes, perhaps too heavily, and once they are broken-in good, saturated with tar, and the bowls heavily caked, I don't notice much effect on the quality of the smoke? | |||
Also see [[Alternative Woods Used For Pipemaking]]. | |||
=== Overview === | === Overview === | ||
The basis for the following section was written by [[Tyler Lane]] for his [http://www.tylerlanepipes.com/index.php website], and is used by permission. | The basis for the following section was written by [[Tyler Lane]] for his [http://www.tylerlanepipes.com/index.php website], and is used by permission. | ||
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=== Processes === | === Processes === | ||
Pipe makers use a variety of methods to accomplish the basic tasks of making a pipe. The following articles attempt to chronicle methods for working with stummels that are in use by some respected pipe makers. | Pipe makers use a variety of methods to accomplish the basic tasks of making a pipe. The following articles attempt to chronicle methods for working with stummels that are in use by some respected pipe makers. | ||
[[Drilling on a Lathe]] (Tyler Lane) | * [[Drilling on a Lathe]] ([[Tyler Lane]]) | ||
* [[Shaping on a Lathe]] (Tyler Lane) | |||
* [[Shaping with a Sanding Disc]] (Tyler Lane) | |||
* [[Shaping with Misc Tools]] (Tyler Lane) | |||
* [[Bamboo Shanks]] | |||
* [[Hardwood Shank Extensions]] | |||
* [[Trever Talbert on Sawing and Shaping]] | |||
* [[Trever Talbert on Drilling]] | |||
* [[Trever Talbert on Detail Shaping]] | |||
* [[Creating Pipes From Morta]] (Trever Talbert) | |||
* [[Shaping Before Drilling]] | |||
The Chicago pipe show site has some videos of pipe making: | The Chicago pipe show site has some videos of pipe making: | ||
[http://www.chicagopipeshow.com/education/JTCookeSeminar.ram J.T. Cooke Video] | |||
[http://www.chicagopipeshow.com/education/2007NanaIvarsson.ram Nana Ivarssen] | * [http://www.chicagopipeshow.com/education/JTCookeSeminar.ram J.T. Cooke Video] | ||
* [http://www.chicagopipeshow.com/education/2007NanaIvarsson.ram Nana Ivarssen] | |||
Video processes [http://www.papaliapipe.com/it/processing Papalia pipe] | |||
Joel Shaperio (JS Pipes) has a nice photo essay of his [http://jspipes.com/PipeMaking/index.htm Pipe making process] | Joel Shaperio (JS Pipes) has a nice photo essay of his [http://jspipes.com/PipeMaking/index.htm Pipe making process] | ||
An excellent video of Hans "Former" Nielson making a billiard, by Lars Kiel. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxVodOHo1Nw&t=1153s '''How Former makes a Billiard'''] | |||
== Stems == | == Stems == | ||
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Since the majority of pipes are made of stems that were pre-formed, I think it is safe to say that stems were largely an afterthought for most pipes. I suspect that when most folks think of pipe making, they think of stummel shaping and stem fitting. I do not think it even crosses the mind of the majority of hobbyist pipe makers to actually hand cut stems. I am of the opinion that this is an unfortunate mistake. The stem, both functionally and aesthetically, is a huge part of the success of a pipe. Here's why: | Since the majority of pipes are made of stems that were pre-formed, I think it is safe to say that stems were largely an afterthought for most pipes. I suspect that when most folks think of pipe making, they think of stummel shaping and stem fitting. I do not think it even crosses the mind of the majority of hobbyist pipe makers to actually hand cut stems. I am of the opinion that this is an unfortunate mistake. The stem, both functionally and aesthetically, is a huge part of the success of a pipe. Here's why: | ||
#Most flow problems in a pipe are in the stem. If you have ever had a wet smoker that whistled when you drew through the pipe when empty, I can almost guarantee you the whistle and wetness were caused by the stem. Lack of care in the stem is the demise of many pipes. | |||
#The comfort of the stem in one's mouth can have a major influence on whether or not it becomes a favorite of the smoker. | |||
#Because of the variations on shape, size and proportion of stummels are infinite, but the economical feasibility of manufacturing pre-formed stems requires a very limited number of shapes and sizes, using pre-formed stems requires compromises on pipe design. By contrast, stems made expressly to complete the design of a singular pipe offers the opportunity for the most aesthetically pleasing pipe. | |||
#Vulcanite is commonly considered the most comfortable stem material in the teeth. Its main drawback is that it oxidizes and therefore requires maintenance; however, the high-grade German vulcanite typically used for hand cut stems is a MUCH superior material to the vulcanite used for pre-formed stems. As such, the German vulcanite used for hand cut stems oxidizes so little that it requires little more care than the bowl of the pipe, while retaining its comfort advantage over acrylic. | |||
All that said, I do offer some pointers on using pre-formed stems because I recognize the economic necessity of needing to start pipe making with compromises. Since we cannot buy pre-formed stummels, and start pipe making by fitting hand cut bits to pre-formed stummels, we opt for the choice to make stummels and fit pre-formed stems. It is a fine place to start, and thanks to the Pimo tenon turning tool, a relatively inexpensive place to start. | All that said, I do offer some pointers on using pre-formed stems because I recognize the economic necessity of needing to start pipe making with compromises. Since we cannot buy pre-formed stummels, and start pipe making by fitting hand cut bits to pre-formed stummels, we opt for the choice to make stummels and fit pre-formed stems. It is a fine place to start, and thanks to the Pimo tenon turning tool, a relatively inexpensive place to start. | ||
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=== Stem inserts === | === Stem inserts === | ||
Stem inserts are used as accents by many pipe makers. To clarify, inserts become part of the stem and are not to be confused with shank extensions, which become part of the stummel (see [[Shank Extensions]]), although some designs do blur these distinctions. Stem inserts are most often made from material that contrast with the stummel and stem, so lighter materials, or materials that contain lighter components to them, tend to be the most aesthetically pleasing. | Stem inserts are used as accents by many pipe makers. To clarify, inserts become part of the stem and are not to be confused with shank extensions, which become part of the stummel (see [[Shank Extensions]]), although some designs do blur these distinctions. Stem inserts are most often made from material that contrast with the stummel and stem, so lighter materials, or materials that contain lighter components to them, tend to be the most aesthetically pleasing. At one point, Ivory was popular with pipemakers. Elephant Ivory can no longer be purchased legally or used ethically. Some fossilized Ivory (such as mastodon, mammoth, and walrus Ivory) is still used, as well as antler, horn, bone, boxwood, and many other exotic hardwoods. Most often an end cap of the same material used for the stem is used to sandwich in the insert material. See [[Stem Inserts]] for suggested techniques. | ||
== Finishing == | == Finishing == | ||
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== Tooling == | == Tooling == | ||
=== Machines === | === Machines === | ||
[[File:VF TourretLathe.jpg|thumb|250px|A Tourret Lathe outfitted for pipe making, courtesy [http://vermontfreehand.com/ Vermont Freehand]]] | |||
Machines can be a huge asset while making pipes. Each pipe maker finds and refines their own methods, so the machines used vary greatly, but the following types of machines are common to professional and serious amateur pipe makers. | Machines can be a huge asset while making pipes. Each pipe maker finds and refines their own methods, so the machines used vary greatly, but the following types of machines are common to professional and serious amateur pipe makers. | ||
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=== Hand Tools === | === Hand Tools === | ||
In addition to the hand tools listed in the [ | In addition to the hand tools listed in the [[Pipe_Making#Basic_Tools|Basic Tools]] section, most professional and serious amateur pipe makers will want to acquire the following: | ||
=== Tools for stamping or marking === | === Tools for stamping or marking === | ||
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=== Drills and Bits === | === Drills and Bits === | ||
''This section and | ''This section and its sub-sections are in the very early stages of development, please feel free to dive in! I had to leave them before finishing. We need photo examples of the options listed.'' | ||
[[Image:Drills_bits.jpg|thumb|500px|center|[[Trever Talbert]]'s drill and bit selection]] | [[Image:Drills_bits.jpg|thumb|500px|center|[[Trever Talbert]]'s drill and bit selection]] | ||
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You just can't have too many options when it comes to drills and bits, or I guess any other tooling! Pipe making requires a combination of specialty or customized bits, and off-the-shelf drills. Even the off-the-shelf drills used are sometimes hard to find locally and must be ordered. | You just can't have too many options when it comes to drills and bits, or I guess any other tooling! Pipe making requires a combination of specialty or customized bits, and off-the-shelf drills. Even the off-the-shelf drills used are sometimes hard to find locally and must be ordered. | ||
==== Chamber Bits ==== | ==== Chamber Bits ==== | ||
[[Image:S&Dbits.jpg|thumb|Modified S&D bits, courtesy [http://www.briarpipetooling.com/ Trent Rudat]]][[Image:spadebit.jpg|thumb|left|50px|Modified Spade bit, courtesy [http://www.pimopipecraft.com/tools.html Pimo]]][[Image:Eltang_spoonbits.jpg|thumb|Spoon bits, Courtesy [http://piapipes.com/product.asp?product=600&sub=48&page=1 PiaPipes ( | [[Image:S&Dbits.jpg|thumb|Modified S&D bits, courtesy [http://www.briarpipetooling.com/ Trent Rudat]]][[Image:spadebit.jpg|thumb|left|50px|Modified Spade bit, courtesy [http://www.pimopipecraft.com/tools.html Pimo]]][[Image:Eltang_spoonbits.jpg|thumb|Spoon bits, Courtesy [http://piapipes.com/product.asp?product=600&sub=48&page=1 PiaPipes (Eltang)]]]This is a huge subject, and one that should perhaps split off into its own article. Pipe makers use a variety of tobacco chamber bits, depending on the machines and techniques used. The four major categories are: | ||
#Spade type bits that have been specially ground are the easiest to acquire. They are inexpensive, and easy to make yourself by modifying off the shelf spade bits. [http://www.pimopipecraft.com/tools.html Pimo Pipecraft] and [http://www.jhlowe.com/tools.htm J.H. Lowe] both make modified spoon bits. | #Spade type bits that have been specially ground are the easiest to acquire. They are inexpensive, and easy to make yourself by modifying off the shelf spade bits. [http://www.pimopipecraft.com/tools.html Pimo Pipecraft] and [http://www.jhlowe.com/tools.htm J.H. Lowe] both make modified spoon bits. | ||
#Silver and Deming (S&D) drills can also by specially ground for use as chamber bits. They tend to cut cleaner and faster than the modified spade tip bits. While possible to grind yourself, it is more difficult. Custom ground bits can be ordered, but they are considerably more costly than the modified spade bits. [http://www.lambpipes.com/pipemakingtools.htm Ken Lamb], and [http://www.briarpipetooling.com/ Trent Rudat] both make modified S&D bits. | #Silver and Deming (S&D) drills can also by specially ground for use as chamber bits. They tend to cut cleaner and faster than the modified spade tip bits. While possible to grind yourself, it is more difficult. Custom ground bits can be ordered, but they are considerably more costly than the modified spade bits. [http://www.lambpipes.com/pipemakingtools.htm Ken Lamb], and [http://www.briarpipetooling.com/ Trent Rudat] both make modified S&D bits. | ||
#Customized tobacco chamber bits that resemble spoon bits are used by many of the Danish pipe makers, and are now being used by many others. These are nearly essential for the shape first method that involves holding the previously shaped stummel in ones hands, and pushing it into the spinning bit. They can be difficult to get. PiaPipes ([[Tom Eltang]]) has them on their [http://piapipes.com/product.asp?product=600&sub=48&page=1 Website]. In the past, [[Brad Pohlmann]] a highly skilled machinist and pipe maker also made a batch of excellent chamber bits in this style. | #Customized tobacco chamber bits that resemble spoon bits are used by many of the Danish pipe makers, and are now being used by many others. These are nearly essential for the shape first method that involves holding the previously shaped stummel in ones hands, and pushing it into the spinning bit. They can be difficult to get. PiaPipes ([[Tom Eltang]]) has them on their [http://piapipes.com/product.asp?product=600&sub=48&page=1 Website]. In the past, [[Brad Pohlmann]] a highly skilled machinist and pipe maker also made a batch of excellent chamber bits in this style. | ||
Bur Bits are another type of bit which can be used to drill the chamber. Standard bur's having a 1/4 in. dia. shank will fit most any drill chuck and will drill holes with straight or tapered sides and rounded bottoms, perfect for pipe bowls. They are available up to 1 in. dia. round-ball shaped, and 3/4 in. dia. oval-egg, and tree w/radius end shapes and in other shapes and sizes at www.mcmaster.com (mfg. www.fullertontool.com) and some other tool suppliers. They drill very cleanly, except some spiral marking on the sides which can be sanded out, but they are very slow, and will burn the wood if you drill too fast. | |||
[[Image:Bur_bits-tn.jpg|thumb|Typical Bur Bits]] | |||
==== Drills for mortise and draught holes ==== | ==== Drills for mortise and draught holes ==== | ||
| Line 208: | Line 235: | ||
#Standard Silver&Deming bits work great too, especially if you're following a previously drilled draught hole. The main drawback is that the end of your tenon will need to be tapered to match the bottom of the mortise. | #Standard Silver&Deming bits work great too, especially if you're following a previously drilled draught hole. The main drawback is that the end of your tenon will need to be tapered to match the bottom of the mortise. | ||
#Forstner bits are an excellent choice. They leave a nice flat hole with clean sides. They're accurate and will not tend to follow grain or a previously drilled hole. | #Forstner bits are an excellent choice. They leave a nice flat hole with clean sides. They're accurate and will not tend to follow grain or a previously drilled hole. | ||
#An inexpensive alternative for drilling the mortise are end mill bits. The advantage is that they drill/mill perfectly flat bottomed holes, plus are available in increments of 1/64". | |||
==== Forstner bits ==== | ==== Forstner bits ==== | ||
| Line 228: | Line 256: | ||
# Because they are short and very robust, machinist's centers or small countersinks of various diameters are very helpful for starting holes accurately in stems and stummels. | # Because they are short and very robust, machinist's centers or small countersinks of various diameters are very helpful for starting holes accurately in stems and stummels. | ||
#Countersinks can be helpful for beveling the edge of the mortise, and larger ones can facilitate beveling the tobacco chamber in certain designs. | #Countersinks can be helpful for beveling the edge of the mortise, and larger ones can facilitate beveling the tobacco chamber in certain designs. | ||
== Materials and Supplies == | == Materials and Supplies == | ||
[[File:VF Banner Smoke.png|thumb|link=http://vermontfreehand.com|500px|Many thanks to our friends at, [http://vermontfreehand.com/ Vermont Freehand], for their generous underwriting support]] | |||
'''DENMARK''' | '''DENMARK''' | ||
[http://shop.hermanns.dk/ P.E.Hermann]: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies. | * [http://shop.hermanns.dk/ P.E.Hermann]: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies. | ||
* [http://piapipes.com/ Pia Pipes]: Spoon bits, assorted briar blocks and stems ([[Tom Eltang]]) | |||
[http://piapipes.com/ | |||
'''GERMANY''' | '''GERMANY''' | ||
[http://www.danpipe.de/dpcc-eng.html Dan Pipe]: Pipe Kits; Briar; Preformed stems, Ebonite rod, Assorted finishing supplies. | * [http://www.danpipe.de/dpcc-eng.html Dan Pipe]: Pipe Kits; Briar; Preformed stems, Ebonite rod, Assorted finishing supplies. | ||
* [http://www.janzen-pfeifen.de/ Marco Janzen - Hermann von Appen]: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies. | |||
[http://www.janzen-pfeifen.de/ Marco Janzen - Hermann von Appen]: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies. | * [http://www.pfeifenecke.de/ Pfeifenecke, Alles für Pfeifenbauer]: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies. | ||
[http://www. | |||
'''GREECE''' | '''GREECE''' | ||
[http://www.briar-pipes.com/ | * [http://www.briar-pipes.com/ Alexander Briar Pipes]: Greek Briar | ||
* [http://www.achaiki-amadeus.gr/briaren.html Amadeus Pipes]: Greek Briar | |||
[http://www.achaiki-amadeus.gr/briaren.html Amadeus Pipes]: Greek Briar | * [https://spoon-bits.com/ Spoon-Bits.com]: Tools and kits for pipe makers. E-Mail: mailto:info@spoon-bits.com | ||
'''ITALY''' | '''ITALY''' | ||
[http:// | * [http://www.orimmetalli.com/ Orim Metalli]: Silver and other Metal manufacturing | ||
* [http://www.romeobriar.com/main.html Romeo Briar (Mimmo)]: Italian Briar | |||
[http://www.romeobriar.com/main.html Romeo Briar]: Italian Briar | * [http://shop.calabriapipe.com/collection.html Calabria Pipe]: Italian Briar | ||
* [http://www.giordanobriar.com/en/ Domenico Giordano]: Italian Briar | |||
[http:// | |||
[http://www. | |||
'''SPAIN''' | '''SPAIN''' | ||
[http:// | * [http://briarblocks.cat/ Jaume Hom]: Spanish Briar | ||
* [http://www.brukenpipes.com Sucesores de Emilio Navarro, S.L.]: Spanish Briar | |||
[http://www. | |||
'''USA''' | '''USA''' | ||
[http://www.jhlowe.com/ | * [http://www.amsmoke.com/ American Smoking Pipe Co.]: owned & operated by [[Mark Tinsky]] | ||
* [http://www.jhlowe.com/catalog/ J.H.Lowe]: owned & operated by [[Tim West]]: Briar; Pipe Kits; Rod - Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Preformed Stems - Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Shank Repair Bands; Finishing Products - Buffs, Compounds, Abrasives, Stains, Wax; Machine Parts - Tenon Cutters, Arbors, Sanding Discs, Mortise Drill; Tools - Drills, Taps, Spade, Bits; Miscellaneous - Bone Screws, Delrin Tenons, Teflon Push Sets, Top Bowls, Bamboo, Calabash Bowls. | |||
[http://www.briarpipetooling.com/ Briar Pipe Tooling]: owned & operated by Trent Rudat: Lathe chuck jaws customized for pipemakers; Silver & Deming bits ground for tobacco chamber boring; Any custom tooling to your specifications & requirements. | * [http://www.vermontfreehand.com Vermont Freehand], owned and operation by Steve Norse E-mail: mailto:stevenorse@gmail.com . Steve also runs a store on eBay, but it is best to contact him directly for the best price. He has Briar from Italy and Algeria, Ebonite from several suppliers, bamboo, pre-made stems, pipe kits, and other tools and supplies for making pipes. | ||
* [https://rawkrafted.com RawKrafted] owned and operated by Premal Chheda Briar, Olive Wood, Pipe Kits, Ebonite Rod, Acrylic Rod, Stems, Bamboo, Drill Bits, Pipe Making Tooling, Buffing and finishing supplies | |||
[http://delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics Inc.]: Acrylic Rod for Stems; Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines. | * [http://www.briarpipetooling.com/ Briar Pipe Tooling]: owned & operated by Trent Rudat: Lathe chuck jaws customized for pipemakers; Silver & Deming bits ground for tobacco chamber boring; Any custom tooling to your specifications & requirements. | ||
* [http://delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics Inc.]: Acrylic Rod for Stems; Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines. | |||
* [http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=buffing Grizzly Industrial, Inc.]: Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines; wood & metal working machines. | |||
* [https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product?queryBy=%26q%3Dtaper-point-drill-bits%26category%3Dtrue Jamestown Distributors]: Taper Point Drill Bits; Abrasives. | |||
[http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=buffing Grizzly Industrial, Inc.]: Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines; wood & metal working machines. | * [http://www.parkspipes.com/method-materials Parks Pipes]: Briar Blocks. | ||
* [http://www.penguinbriar.com Penguin Briar]: Pipe Kits, custom drilled to customer specs using good quality Algerian Briar. | |||
[ | * [http://careysmokeshop.stores.yahoo.net/hobbyblock.html E.A. Carey] Predrilled Briar Pipe Kits | ||
* [http://www.masecraftsupply.com/ Masecraft Supply Company]: Assorted Natural & Alternative Stem, stem insert, shank extension materials. | |||
[http://www.parkspipes.com/ | * A&M Steel Stamps, Custom Stamps for pipe makers: Paul Argendorf, Phone: 516-741-6223, Email: amsteelstamp@optonline.net | ||
* [https://buckeyeengraving.com Buckeye Engraving]: Custom Stamp Maker used by some U.S. pipe makers | |||
* [https://www.infinitystamps.com/collections/wood-stamps Infinity Stamps, Inc.]: E-mail: inquiries@infinitystamps.com, Phone: 818-576-1188, Fax: 818-576-1166, Address: 8577 Canoga Ave., Canoga Park, CA 91304, U.S. | |||
* [https://www.hvalleytools.com MLCS] Core Box and Round Nose bits for boring tobacco chamber. | |||
[http://www. | * [http://www.caswellplating.com/buffing-polishing.html Caswell]: Buffing supplies. | ||
* [http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster-Carr Supply Co.]: Huge general supply catalog, easy to find what you need & order, good prices on many items. | |||
[http:// | * [http://www.onlinemetals.com/ OnlineMetals.com]: Delrin, stainless tubing, brass, etc... | ||
* Mark [[Yingling]] [mailto:yinglingm@verizon.net,] Machinist and Pipemaker, [http://public.jwh.fastmail.fm/images/Bison1.jpg made these chuck jaws]. | |||
[http://www.masecraftsupply.com/ | |||
A & M Steel Stamps | |||
[ | |||
[http://www.caswellplating.com/ | |||
[http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster-Carr Supply Co.]: Huge general supply catalog, easy to find what you need & order, good prices on many items. | |||
'''IRAN''' | |||
http:// | * http://www.mastrorahimi.com Briar, Bamboo, Horn, pipe tools, pipe stands, pipe filter | ||