The Complete Corncob primer: Difference between revisions

While I’ve been smoking cobs for nearly 50 years, I’m no expert, but just maybe my dad was, and he taught me everything I know. So at the urging of Ed Anderson and John Q, I’ve decided to do my best at passing on some of dad’s knowledge. I’ll first give a run down on all the current Missouri Meerschaum models I’ve smoked. Over the years, as models have been dropped, and others added, my choice of favorites has changed, as it has recently. I’ll then go into detail on my dad’s lessons to me on the care and feeding of cobs. Both the cleaning and maintenance as well as packing, lighting, and smoking; information he began gifting me on June 1, 1959, the day he handed me a corn cob and a large tin of Carter Hall. And I’ll also give advice based on various concerns of both new pipers, and veterans new to cobs.

Missouri Meerschaum does use Plaster-of-Paris and lacquer to finish their non-natural pipes, and a black stain on a few models. Usually, it doesn’t cause a problem on the inside of the bowl, but sometimes it can be a nuisance. If you notice any kind of stain inside the bowl, or just to be on the safe side, lightly use sand paper to remove anything and everything other than cob from the inside of the bowl. Some folks also sand the outside of the bowls, to make them “more natural”. Or just buy the Pride, which is natural and unfinished.

So if you decide to remove the inner portion of the shank, I’d strongly advise you to protect the bottom of the bowl with the application of “pipe mud”. Pipe Mud is a medium thick mixture of pipe tobacco ash and either saliva or water. Mix until you have a thick mud, and then apply several layers, letting each layer dry partially. Allow the cob to rest several days, so the pipe mud can cure.  

People say that cobs require no break-in. Compared to a briar pipe, I suppose that's nearly true, but there is a bit of a break-in period.

With the first few bowls in a new cob, when you get near the bottom, that wood from the shank inside the bowl will start to burn. When it starts to taste bad, I stick with it just a few puffs more to help char that wood out of there. Then I sit the pipe down and let it smolder completely out before emptying the bowl or trying to clean it. I figure while it's sitting there a bit more of the wood may burn, and I don't want to stop it from doing so. After 2 bowls, and then again after 4 bowls I hit that shank with a reamer with very little pressure. I'm only trying to whittle away the charred wood and expose more unburned so it will burn out more easily next time. After 6 bowls, your cob should be good and broken in.

Cobs are great year round, but do need a bit more attention in damp weather, since they will absorb some of the surrounding moisture. So, while I usually tell folks to allow their cobs to cool completely before smoking them again, now you need to let them dry out completely too. And that means both inside and out. One thing that might help if it's really damp is to store your clean, dry cobs in Ziploc or similar Freezer Bags. This will keep them from absorbing even more moisture, which won't really be noticed except when you smoke them, and realize something isn't quite right. Cobs have the ability to absorb massive amounts of moisture, and the disapate it over time. Normally it'll only take about a 1/2 hour, but sometimes under extreme conditions it can seem like forever. I've never know a cob that won't eventually recover. Pretty amazing for a pipe with an average price of well under $10.00. Putting them in a warm over, after removing the plastic bit, also works if you use the lowest setting, and only do it for a few minutes.

Cobs aren’t going to be for everyone. But if you keep an open mind, and follow the advice offered here, you might be surprised. I hope this helps you enjoy your cobs, and any other pipes, a bit more.