Using Delrin Tenons: Difference between revisions

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It's important to note that you MUST clear the wood chips frequently while drilling the mortis. If the wood chips build up, it will generate excess heat and pressure which will change the final hole size as those wood chips press against the sides of the mortis.
It's important to note that you MUST clear the wood chips frequently while drilling the mortis. If the wood chips build up, it will generate excess heat and pressure which will change the final hole size as those wood chips press against the sides of the mortis.


Once you have a drill bit that you know will provide a consistent hole size, you're ready to start using it. Be aware, that the bit that provides the right hole size for briar, may be to small for drilling a hole in vulcanite or acrylic. You'll need to be sure of your drill bits before you start.
Once you have a drill bit that you know will provide a consistent hole size, you're ready to start using it. Be aware, that the bit that provides the right hole size for briar, may be too small for drilling a hole in vulcanite or acrylic. You'll need to be sure of your drill bits before you start.


===My procedure is as follows:===
===My procedure is as follows:===
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====Put the stem and delrin together:====
====Put the stem and delrin together:====
* first, I take a triangle file and slightly deepen the grooves on at three points around the circumference. Do not depen the grooves all the way around. The goal is to get a slight triangle shape in the grooves so that the delrin will not rotate in the stem once the epoxy has cured. Just a couple swipes of the file in each groove at 120-degree intervals should be quite sufficient to hold it.
* first, I take a triangle file and slightly deepen the grooves on at three points around the circumference. Do not deepen the grooves all the way around. The goal is to get a slight triangle shape in the grooves so that the delrin will not rotate in the stem once the epoxy has cured. Just a couple swipes of the file in each groove at 120-degree intervals should be quite sufficient to hold it.
* mix up some epoxy (5-minute, 15-minute, 24-hour, whatever) with a toothpick
* mix up some epoxy (5-minute, 15-minute, 24-hour, whatever) with a toothpick
* use the toothpick to put a dollop of epoxy in the stem mortis
* use the toothpick to put a dollop of epoxy in the stem mortise
* spread epoxy all over the outside of the delrin. Be sure to get epoxy in the grooves and get all the big air bubbles out.
* spread epoxy all over the outside of the delrin. Be sure to get epoxy in the grooves and get all the big air bubbles out.
* insert the delrin tenon into the mortis. Epoxy will go everywhere, this is normal.
* insert the delrin tenon into the mortise. Epoxy will go everywhere, this is normal.
* at this point you can either wipe up the excess epoxy with a rag or paper towel, or you can wait a couple minutes and just peel it off when it becomes rubbery. Be sure to get it all, otherwise your stem won't fit right.
* at this point you can either wipe up the excess epoxy with a rag or paper towel, or you can wait a couple minutes and just peel it off when it becomes rubbery. Be sure to get it all, otherwise your stem won't fit right.
* after the epoxy has fully cured, you can remove the epoxy that got into the airway by carefully re-drilling the airway. I do this by hand, holding the stem and with a tapered drill bit turning on the lathe at 500RPM. BE CAREFUL!!
* after the epoxy has fully cured, you can remove the epoxy that got into the airway by carefully re-drilling the airway. I do this by hand, holding the stem and with a tapered drill bit turning on the lathe at 500RPM. BE CAREFUL!!
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===Drilling===
===Drilling===
The diameter of the Delrin used for the tenon will largely depend on the pipe's final stem and shank diameter. It is critical that your drills match the Delrin you're using, especially with regard to the fit of the tenon in the stummel mortise. Both drills and Delrin very slightly, so some experimentation with speed, feed rate, and different drills, even of the same marked size will result it the best fit. Once you find a good drill, make sure you keep track of it. It may be advantageous to  use a different drill for the stummel than the one used for the stem material.
The diameter of the Delrin used for the tenon will largely depend on the pipe's final stem and shank diameter. It is critical that your drills match the Delrin you're using, especially with regard to the fit of the tenon in the stummel mortise. Both drills and Delrin vary slightly, so some experimentation with speed, feed rate, and different drills, even of the same marked size will result it the best fit. Once you find a good drill, make sure you keep track of it. It may be advantageous to  use a different drill for the stummel than the one used for the stem material.


[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drillingforDelrin.JPG]]
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drillingforDelrin.JPG]]


===Preping the Delrin===
===Prepping the Delrin===
Next measure and cut the section of Delrin to be used. Make sure you leave extra length to allow for trimming it to perfectly match the depth of the mortise. Here we are also gluing up insert material, so that is also accounted for in the length:
Next measure and cut the section of Delrin to be used. Make sure you leave extra length to allow for trimming it to perfectly match the depth of the mortise. Here we are also gluing up insert material, so that is also accounted for in the length:


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[[Image:Inlayed_stem_rounding_Delrin.JPG]]
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_rounding_Delrin.JPG]]
 
===Glue up===
===Glue up===
First dry fit everything to ensure your fit is good:  
First dry fit everything to ensure your fit is good:  
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===Fitting to the stummel===
===Fitting to the stummel===
Now that our epoxy is fully curred we can fit the Delrin tenon to the mortise. First bevel the tenon so it will not damage the mortise in the stummel, then check the stummel and measure how much to trim off the tenon:
Now that our epoxy is fully cured we can fit the Delrin tenon to the mortise. First bevel the tenon so it will not damage the mortise in the stummel, then check the stummel and measure how much to trim off the tenon:


[[Image:Inlayed_stem_bevel delrin.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_checkstummel.JPG]]
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_bevel delrin.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_checkstummel.JPG]]
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===Cleaning up===
===Cleaning up===
The draft hole can be sanded up though most of it's length by wrapping sandpaper around the 1/16" drill bit. The final 3/4" or so cannot be reached, but it will be carefully opened, filed, sanded, and buffed later. Steel wool does a nice job cleaning up the tenon end after the sanding.
The draft hole can be sanded up through most of it's length by wrapping sandpaper around the 1/16" drill bit. The final 3/4" or so cannot be reached, but it will be carefully opened, filed, sanded, and buffed later. Steel wool does a nice job cleaning up the tenon end after the sanding.


[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafsanding.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafstellwool.JPG]]
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafsanding.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafstellwool.JPG]]
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