23,116
edits
Pipe Making: Difference between revisions
→Drills for mortise and drought holes
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#Spur tip wood bits. These work best when the mortise is drilled before the drought hole, or have fresh wood to center the spus, otherwise they can be pulled off course. In fresh wood, they track very well and produce a relatively flat hole (with a point at the bottom from the spur), the flatness facilitates a precise fit with the stem tenon, while the spur point in the center of the hole can also provide an excellent start for centery the bit used to drill the drought hole. | #Spur tip wood bits. These work best when the mortise is drilled before the drought hole, or have fresh wood to center the spus, otherwise they can be pulled off course. In fresh wood, they track very well and produce a relatively flat hole (with a point at the bottom from the spur), the flatness facilitates a precise fit with the stem tenon, while the spur point in the center of the hole can also provide an excellent start for centery the bit used to drill the drought hole. | ||
#Standard Silver&Deming bits work great too, especially if your following a previously drilled drought hole. The main drawback is the end of your tenon will need to be rounded to match the bottom of the mortise. | #Standard Silver&Deming bits work great too, especially if your following a previously drilled drought hole. The main drawback is the end of your tenon will need to be rounded to match the bottom of the mortise. | ||
#Forstner bits are an excellent choice. They leave a nice flat hole with clean sides. They're accurate and will not tend to follow grain or a previously drilled hole. | |||
==== Drills for stems ==== | ==== Drills for stems ==== | ||
6" long tapered bits are an excellent choice for drilling out stem rod. 4mm, 5/32", and 9/64", and 1/8" are popular choices, depending on design preferences. These are stopped around 3/4" short of the bit end and followed up with a smaller bit that will facilitate thinning out the bit. Popular choices here for this section are HSS S7D bits in 1/16", or 2mm diameters, with some pipe makers going as small as 1 mm here. 6" long "aircraft bits" enable this portion to be drilled from the same end as the rest of the air hole, or the rod stock can be flipped around and drilled from the other end with a shorter bit with proper alignment such as can be achieved with a self centering chuck or vice. | 6" long tapered bits are an excellent choice for drilling out stem rod. 4mm, 5/32", and 9/64", and 1/8" are popular choices, depending on design preferences. These are stopped around 3/4" short of the bit end and followed up with a smaller bit that will facilitate thinning out the bit. Popular choices here for this section are HSS S7D bits in 1/16", or 2mm diameters, with some pipe makers going as small as 1 mm here. 6" long "aircraft bits" enable this portion to be drilled from the same end as the rest of the air hole, or the rod stock can be flipped around and drilled from the other end with a shorter bit with proper alignment such as can be achieved with a self centering chuck or vice. | ||