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== Maintenance == | == Maintenance == | ||
Not handy with tools, yet want to restore an old pipe? Rich Esserman wrote an excellent article that may be just the thing: [[Try this at Home]] | *Not handy with tools, yet want to restore an old pipe? Rich Esserman wrote an excellent article that may be just the thing: [[Try this at Home]] | ||
*In addition to the information bellow, check out [https://www.smokingpipes.com/information/howto/cleaning.cfm How to Clean Your Pipe (Smokingpipes.com)] | |||
=== Reaming === | === Reaming === | ||
After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may become so thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In very extreme cases, an overly thick cake may actually crack the bowl due to differential expansion. Ideally, the cake should not exceed one-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.5 mm) or so. When the cake exceeds this thickness, it should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have a blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade for this purpose. While these will work, it is very easy to trim the cake unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare wood. Numerous adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these will do a much neater job. A favored tool for this task--suggested by pipe maker extraordinaire JT Cooke--is nothing more than a series of short wooden dowels of varying diameters that are wrapped with fine grit emery cloth or sandpaper. Whatever device you choose to use, work slowly and carefully so as not to damage your pipe. The idea is to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness, not scrape it out in chunks. If you have more than the usual number of thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist, who will usually perform this task for a nominal fee. | After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may become so thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In very extreme cases, an overly thick cake may actually crack the bowl due to differential expansion. Ideally, the cake should not exceed one-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.5 mm) or so. When the cake exceeds this thickness, it should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have a blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade for this purpose. While these will work, it is very easy to trim the cake unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare wood. Numerous adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these will do a much neater job. A favored tool for this task--suggested by pipe maker extraordinaire JT Cooke--is nothing more than a series of short wooden dowels of varying diameters that are wrapped with fine grit emery cloth or sandpaper. Whatever device you choose to use, work slowly and carefully so as not to damage your pipe. The idea is to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness, not scrape it out in chunks. If you have more than the usual number of thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist, who will usually perform this task for a nominal fee. | ||
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=== Polishing stems === | === Polishing stems === | ||
Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green color. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. When oxidation does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe for this treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem surface, which will be roughened by this treatment. | Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green color caused by a reaction between sunlight and the sulfur in the rubber. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. Products such as Obsidian Oil also claim to stave off the development of oxidation. When oxidation does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe for this treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem surface, which will be roughened by this treatment. | ||
Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar into your face. | The method now commonly preferred to a bleach soak is to soak the stem for up to an hour in a solution of warm water and oxygenated bleach such as Oxyclean, then rinse and scrub thoroughly with melamine foam such as a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. While the method will remove paint from a stamped stem logo, it will not damage metal fittings. However, the stem will often be in need of either buffing or sanding with micromesh sanding pads to return it to its original shiny condition. | ||
Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar into your face. Extremely deep oxidation is almost certain to require sanding to remove, and may only be visible under angled light in a dark room. An oxygenated bleach soak can help in bringing deep oxidation to the surface, but will not eliminate the problem completely if the oxidation is severe. | |||
=== Care for meerschaum pipes === | === Care for meerschaum pipes === | ||
First, and most importantly, don't drop it. Meerschaum is fragile, and it is very unlikely that your pipe will survive a dive to the kitchen floor. Second, do not allow a cake to build in the bowl | First, and most importantly, don't drop it. Meerschaum is fragile, and it is very unlikely that your pipe will survive a dive to the kitchen floor. Second, do not allow a cake to build in the bowl. The forming of cake can be slowed considerably by, after letting the pipe cool and holding it with a cloth, removing loose dottle from the bowl with a pipe cleaner and "reaming" the bowl out with a twisted paper towel. This does not eliminate the formation of cake, however. If your pipe does start to build a cake, do not use a standard pipe reamer. The appropriate method instead is to use a sharp knife with a rounded tip and to carefully scrape the cake off the block, keeping the blade perpendicular to the surface at all times. | ||
Meerschaum experts often warn about extremes in temperature, and caution against taking a hot pipe into cold weather or putting it down on a cold surface. The best manner to rest a hot meerschaum in any case is with a pipe holder that holds the pipe by the stem, and not the bowl. For a cold meerschaum, the pipe should be returned to its case, but only after it is fully cool and dry. | |||
Most modern meerschaums have a two part connection between the stem and shank, originally invented by Andreas Bauer of Vienna. Because the mortise insert unscrews counter-clockwise, it is important to remove the stem by turning it clockwise only. The mortise insert should only be removed when it is damaged or otherwise in need of replacement, and if either part of the "push-pull" tenon and mortise is removed the other part should be replaced as well. The tenon should be regularly unscrewed from the stem in order to permit cleaning behind it, as tar can collect in this space and affect the pipe's performance. Meerschaum is a very absorbent, inorganic material, and does not require the same "rest period" that briars do. Still, I would at least allow the pipe to cool and dry completely before loading up and smoking it again. | |||
Many meerschaum aficionados claim that to ensure proper "coloring" of the bowl you should never hold the bowl with your bare hands while smoking, and continuous holding of a hot meerschaum pipe can go so far as to embed fingerprints into the pipe itself. Many choose to take the chance given the convenience of holding the pipe like any other, but holding by the stem will ensure that wax is not removed and dirt is not deposited on the pipe. | |||
Meerschaum colors because of its thin coating of pure beeswax, which assists nicotine and tobacco oils in migrating in and out of the block of the pipe. If it is smoked too hot, or handled too much, the wax coating will be removed and the color will stop migrating. Should the pipe begin to look dry or chalky in spots, pure beeswax can be melted with a hair dryer on low heat and applied directly to the pipe while smoking, using a cotton swab to leave an even coat. After the pipe has cooled it can be buffed with a cotton cloth to remove any excess wax and return the shine to the block. | |||
=== Should I store my pipe with a cleaner in the stem? === | === Should I store my pipe with a cleaner in the stem? === | ||
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If you do manage to remove the stem, place some sort of dry lubricant, such as graphite (from a soft pencil) or wax, on the tenon and attempt to reinsert the stem. If this does not provide satisfactory results, you will need to remove a small amount of material from the tenon. Wrap some very fine (400 grit or so) sandpaper or some "O" or finer grade steel wool around the tenon and twist the stem gently. Work very slowly and carefully, and check the fit frequently until it is satisfactory. | If you do manage to remove the stem, place some sort of dry lubricant, such as graphite (from a soft pencil) or wax, on the tenon and attempt to reinsert the stem. If this does not provide satisfactory results, you will need to remove a small amount of material from the tenon. Wrap some very fine (400 grit or so) sandpaper or some "O" or finer grade steel wool around the tenon and twist the stem gently. Work very slowly and carefully, and check the fit frequently until it is satisfactory. | ||
== Professional repair videos == | |||
[[File:George Dibos.jpg|thumb|George Dibos, [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWQlM1pWKqd5prZTdEDANZg/playlists High Grade Pipe Repair and Restoration Playlists]]]Reknown pipe repairman, George Dibos has been doing an excellent series on high grade pipe repair, which can be seen on Youtube. Here is a link to his playlists including the various procedures he has videod so far: [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWQlM1pWKqd5prZTdEDANZg/playlists George Dibos High Grade Pipe Repair and Restoration Playlists]. | |||
== Professional repair shops == | == Professional repair shops == | ||
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===U.S.=== | ===U.S.=== | ||
''' | '''Bear Briar''' - Thomas (Bear) Tessier, Website: http://www.bearbriar.com/ Address: 3452 Mendocino Ave., Suite C, Santa Rosa, CA 95403. Phone: 707.545.0701, Fax: 707.545.2440 E-mail: tom@bearbriar.com. | ||
''' | '''Briar Pipe Repir''' - David Smith has 30 years experience repairing tobacco smoking pipes since 1986. He has repaired pipes for tobacco shops big and small for years around Indiana and takes pride in his work. And has a fast turn around. Briar Pipe Repairs, 127 W. Hendricks St. , Greensburg IN 47240. Phone: 812-614-6278. E-mail: briarpiperepairs@gmail.com. Website: [http://www.briarpiperepairs.com/ Briarpiperepairs.com] | ||
'''Briarville Tobacco Pipe Repair and Restoration''', ''"Pipe Repair and Close as Your Mailbox"'' - Briarville is the prefered shop at TPC/GPC, serving the online pipe community, brick and mortars and smoking pipe enthusiasts in the United States and abroad. 2773 West Division St. Hermitage, TN 37076. Telephone: 615-957-7582. Read our customer reviews at [http://www.briarville.com Briarville.com], [mailto:ric@joecasepipes.com E-mail] - Briarville is the repair and restoration shop at [http://www.joecasepipes.com Joe Case Pipes]. You may enjoy listening to Brian Levine's interview with Ric Farrah of Briarville Pipe Repair on the [http://pipesmagazine.com/blog/radio-talk-show/the-pipes-magazine-radio-show-episode-277/ Pipes Magazine Radio Show] | |||
'''Mary Ann Keller''', owner of the American Smoking Pipe Repair Company [http://www.americansmokingpiperepairs.com/index.html] and who has mad skills, now does her considerable magic for online vendor E.A. Carey. [http://www.eacarey.com/piperepair.html website]. Mary Ann can be emailed directly at mailto:mak11@ptd.net <br> | |||
''' | '''George Dibos''' began collecting, refurbishing, and repairing pipes in the 1970's as hobby, and went full time in 2007. He now has the most comprehensive dedicated repair shop in the United States. To control demand/workload he no longer accepts blind mail-ins, but asks that work requests be made via phone, usually with emailed photos and discussion to follow. His specialties are high grade collectables, and technically difficult repairs that require high precision and specialized tools. He can be reached at (816) 605 1341. In 2018 he also started making and uploading repair and restoration videos to YouTube to assist hobbyists and other professionals. Here is a link to his playlists including various procedures: [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWQlM1pWKqd5prZTdEDANZg/playlists George Dibos High Grade Pipe Repair and Restoration Playlists]. | ||
*You may also enjoy listening to Brian Levine's interview with George on [http://pipesmagazine.com/blog/radio-talk-show/the-pipes-magazine-radio-show-episode-154/ The Pipes Magazine Radio Show] | |||
''' | '''Norwood's Pipe Repair''', 1160 Norwood Lane, Clifton, Tennessee 38425, (731) 925-1836. [mailto:flnpipes@yahoo.com E-mail], [http://www.norwoodspiperepair.com/ Website] Floyd Norwood is the repairman of choice for numerous pipe and tobacco shops throughout the U.S. and is known for his quality work, fast turn around time and prices that are often 1/3 that of his competitors. Floyd also crafts quality freehand pipes as a hobby which can be purchased at his website. | ||
''' | '''[[Ronni Bikacsan]]''' does excellent pipe repairs and alterations. Contact information: NightOwl Pipe Works, E-mail: mailto:rbpipeworks@gmail.com PLEASE NOTE: website says Ronni is not taking new customers. | ||
''' | '''Schulte's Pipe Repair''' is the best around! They are the only authorized repair shop in the U.S. for Dunhill pipes. | ||
Contact Howard Schulte at (772) 564-0079. 678 Old Dixie Highway, Vero Beach, Florida 32962. | |||
All work is done by mail order, but call first. Your pipe will be like new! | |||
''' | '''Stem & Briar LLC.''', owned by James Connelly, operates a small estate pipe shop, and restoration business. Offers several estate pipes, racks and accessories for sale as well as pipe repair and rejuvenation services. Address - 9211 S. Nicholson Rd., Oak Creek, WI 53154; Phone: 414-949-7473; E-mail: stemandbriar@gmail.com . [http://www.stemandbriar.com Website] | ||
'''[[Tim West]]''' owner of '''J.H.Lowe''', has been a Briar Pipemaker and a Pipe Repairman since 1975. Address - 1588 Grayling Ct., Columbus, OH 43235-5950; 614-761-3465; E-mail mailto:info@jhlowe.com . [http://www.jhlowe.com/ J.H.Lowe Main Website] [http://www.jhlowe.com/tobacco_pipe_repairs.htm Repairs Page] | '''[[Tim West]]''' owner of '''J.H.Lowe''', has been a Briar Pipemaker and a Pipe Repairman since 1975. Address - 1588 Grayling Ct., Columbus, OH 43235-5950; 614-761-3465; E-mail mailto:info@jhlowe.com . [http://www.jhlowe.com/ J.H.Lowe Main Website] [http://www.jhlowe.com/tobacco_pipe_repairs.htm Repairs Page] | ||
''' | '''Walker Pipe Repair, LLC''', 1210 Franklin Blvd., Ann Arbor, MI 48103. Telephone: 734-945-1691. Dave Wolff restored and repaired pipes for more than 40 years before turning the business over to Mike Myers, who now owns and operates the business. He sells a Vulcanite Stem Restoration Kit (which works)on his website, and Walker Briar Works, the other side of the business, carries hand finished Lucite and Vulcanite 'Forever' Stems for Corn Cob Pipes. [mailto:mike@walkerpiperepair.com E-mail], [http://www.walkerpiperepair.com/ Website] | ||
''' | '''Wall's Pipe Repair''', 12 S. Main St., Mansfield, OH (419-522-6218) [http://www.wallspiperepair.com/home.html Website] | ||
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REPAIR SHOPS NO LONGER ACTIVE (or not offering repairs): | |||
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''' | '''E Pipe Repairs''', 144 Linebrook Road, Ipswich, Ma. 01938. [mailto:johnips@comcast.net E-mail], [http://www.epiperepairs.com/ Website] PLEASE NOTE: this site is down; 404 not found. | ||
''' | '''Jo Barnfield''', manager of '''Monarch Pipe Company''' made and repaired pipes for E.A. Carey for many years.<br> | ||
PLEASE NOTE: Jo retired in January 2015 and no longer does repair work. | |||
''' | '''Randy Krempp''' did repairs and refurbishing and has an excellent reputation.<br> | ||
PLEASE NOTE: no contact information found. Please update with any additional information. | |||
''' | '''Raphael Estate Restoration''', owned by Raphael Fiedler, offering repair and restoration of all manner of pipes. On facebook at Raphael Estate Restoration, by email to damnedatom@gmail.com, via mail to 125 Fort Charles Drive, Supply, North Carolina 28462, or by telephone to (631) 816-5886. <br> | ||
PLEASE NOTE: Mr. Fiedler retired November 2015 and no longer does repairs. | |||
''' | '''Restoration Pipe Repair''', owned by Frank Storm. We have just learned that Frank is now retired and no loonger doing pipe repair work. | ||
''' | '''Scott Bundy''', [mailto:scott@piperestore.com E-mail] <br> | ||
PLEASE NOTE: Website URL is now an attack site. Please update with any additional information. | |||
''' | '''Shane Slayton''' - 73 Hill Top Church Rd. Glenwood, AR 71943 - Repairs broken tenons at a ridiculously low price. For the most part a hobbyist, who learned out of necessity, his work is a great alternative to replacement stems. Usually around 5 bucks. scorpio2billion@yahoo.com <br> | ||
PLEASE NOTE: Mr. Slayton passed away in May 2015. | |||
''' | '''Smokers' Haven''', 2106 N. High St., Columbus, OH (614-299-2442) [http://www.smokershaven.com/ Website] <br> | ||
PLEASE NOTE: according to Mr. Premal Chheda, Smokers Haven no longer does repair work. | |||
''' | '''Starfire Pipe Works''' owned by Howard Rasmussen. PLEASE NOTE: No more pipe work being accepted. Howard still does laser engraving, however, and will engrave pipes. E-mail: info@starfireengraving.com. [https://starfireengraving.com/ website].<br> | ||
===Canada=== | ===Canada=== | ||
'''[[Blatter & Blatter]]''' - 375 President Kennedy ave., Montreal Quebec H3A 0B3. Tel: 514-845-8028: In business since 1907, make their own tobacco blends & pipes, and are the only pipe-oriented tobacconist in Montreal. http://www.blatterpipes.com/ | '''[[Blatter & Blatter]]''' - 375 President Kennedy ave., Montreal Quebec H3A 0B3. Tel: 514-845-8028: In business since 1907, make their own tobacco blends & pipes, and are the only pipe-oriented tobacconist in Montreal. http://www.blatterpipes.com/ | ||
===UK=== | '''Before-n-After-Pipes''', Pipe repairs and services,1178 phillips suite 420,Montreal,Quebec 514-554-1756 | ||
'''Reborn Briar Estate Pipes''' - Reborn Briar offers pipe restoration services, from a clean and polish to a complete restore and refinish. They also offer a large range of fully restored pipes for sale in their online shop [http://www. | [mailto:michael@evokedistribution.com E-mail] | ||
[http://www.bnapipes.com/pages/contact.html Website]<br> | |||
PLEASE NOTE: Site and email address no longer operational. Please update with any additional information. | |||
'''[https://rebornpipes.com/ Reborn Pipes]''': Steve Laug of Reborn Pipes has recently started refurbishing and repairing pipes for customers, as well as for resale. You can hear an excellent interview Brian Levine did with Steve on the [http://pipesmagazine.com/blog/radio-talk-show/the-pipes-magazine-radio-show-episode-197/#more-10028 Pipes Magazine Radio Show] | |||
===UK & Europe=== | |||
'''Reborn Briar Estate Pipes''' - Reborn Briar offers pipe restoration services, from a clean and polish to a complete restore and refinish. They also offer a large range of fully restored pipes for sale in their online shop [http://www.estatepipeshop.co.uk/ Reborn Briar Estate Pipes], [mailto:admin@estatepipes.co.uk E-mail] - Reborn Briar is a TPC/GPC preferred vendor. - 56 Hillview Road, Carrickfergus, BT38 8GY. Tel: 07950-131631 [http://www.estatepipeshop.co.uk/ http://www.estatepipeshop.co.uk/] | |||
'''Baard Hansen''' Tabago Pipemaker of Bergen Norway. Repair and restoration [http://www.pipe-maker.com/pipe-repair.htm] Mail box: Tabago pipemaker, PO Box 18, Birkebeinersenteret, N-5831 Bergen.Phone: +47 41 02 08 80 | |||
[mailto:tabago@pipe-maker.com E-mail] [http://www.pipe-maker.com Website] | |||