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The Complete Corncob primer: Difference between revisions
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→The Complete Corncob Primer
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Also, the shank of the MM Freehand has a tendency to spilt, if not handled with extreme care. Several members of Smokers Forum have made lasting repairs to the shank using wood glue. Simply pry the splitor crack apart, apply wood glue, and then clamp or tape the split together for a day or two until it dries. | Also, the shank of the MM Freehand has a tendency to spilt, if not handled with extreme care. Several members of Smokers Forum have made lasting repairs to the shank using wood glue. Simply pry the splitor crack apart, apply wood glue, and then clamp or tape the split together for a day or two until it dries. | ||
***Advice Offered offered by SmokeyTheWerewolf was so good I asked his permission to include it in the Corncob Primer. Thanks very much Smokey. | *** | ||
Advice Offered offered by SmokeyTheWerewolf was so good I asked his permission to include it in the Corncob Primer. Thanks very much Smokey. | |||
People say that cobs require no break-in. Compared to a briar pipe, I suppose that's nearly true, but there is a bit of a break-in period. | People say that cobs require no break-in. Compared to a briar pipe, I suppose that's nearly true, but there is a bit of a break-in period. | ||
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In that process, most of the the wood shank will have been burned away. The little spaces to the side and under that shank will have filled with ash and just a bit of moisture making a natural pipe mud that will help round out the bottom of your bowl and provide for better smoke draught mechanics and will help protect the bottom of your cob from burnout. | In that process, most of the the wood shank will have been burned away. The little spaces to the side and under that shank will have filled with ash and just a bit of moisture making a natural pipe mud that will help round out the bottom of your bowl and provide for better smoke draught mechanics and will help protect the bottom of your cob from burnout. | ||
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