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Using Delrin Tenons: Difference between revisions
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(New page: '''The basis for this article originally appeared as a sticky on the Pipe Makers Forum, and written by Kurt Huhn''' First, decide on your tenon diameter. Most folks will use 5/16", bu...) |
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===The Kurt Huhn Method=== | |||
The basis for this article originally appeared as a sticky on the Pipe Makers Forum, and written by [[Kurt Huhn]]: | |||
First, decide on your tenon diameter. Most folks will use 5/16", but 3/8" and 1/4" are not uncommon. | First, decide on your tenon diameter. Most folks will use 5/16", but 3/8" and 1/4" are not uncommon. | ||
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That's it in a nutshell. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes rather quickly for me as I tend to batch most of that by doing 3-4 stems at a time. Way less time than trying to hand turn tenons on a wood lathe. I also prefer the buttery feel of delrin as a tenon over vulcanite - but that's primarily a personal preference. | That's it in a nutshell. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes rather quickly for me as I tend to batch most of that by doing 3-4 stems at a time. Way less time than trying to hand turn tenons on a wood lathe. I also prefer the buttery feel of delrin as a tenon over vulcanite - but that's primarily a personal preference. | ||
===Revised method=== | |||
The following outlines a method used allowing the stem and Delrin to be drilled together after the two are assembled: | |||
As with any aspect of pipe making, there are many ways to achieve good results with Delrin. The following method is constantly evolving, but may prove helpful to some in developing their own: | |||
'''Preparing the stem:''' | |||
Note: If convenient, consider leaving the stem material in the lathe for the entire process (glue up and drilling). This prevents having to re-center it for drilling operations. Multiple sessions where the stem is in and out of the lathe can introduce problems, even with self-centering chucks. | |||
Prepare the stem material in the lathe by first roughing in the diameter of the stem rod by turning it down. Then face the end as you would normally. The following pics show that being done with a Forstner bit: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_forstner.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_facing.JPG]] | |||
The diameter of the Delrin used for the tenon will largely depend on the pipe's final stem and shank diameter. It is critical that your drills match the Delrin you're using, especially with regard to the fit of the tenon in the stummel mortise. Both drills and Delrin very slightly, so some experimentation with speed, feed rate, and different drills, even of the same marked size will result it the best fit. Once you find a good drill, make sure you keep track of it. It may be advantageous to use a different drill for the stummel than the one used for the stem material. | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drillingforDelrin.JPG]] | |||
Next measure and cut the section of Delrin to be used. Make sure you leave extra length to allow for trimming it to perfectly match the depth of the mortise. Here we are also gluing up insert material, so that is also accounted for in the length: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_measuring_delrin_blank.JPG]] | |||
Round the end of the Delrin to match the bottom of the hole drilled in the stem material. This will minimise any voids and pockets of epoxy: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_rounding_Delrin.JPG]] | |||
'''Glue up:''' First dry fit everything to ensure your fit is good: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_dryfitting.JPG]] | |||
Roughing up the Delrin, and the hole in your stem material will greatly improve the bond between the two materials: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_roughing_hole.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_roughing_delrin.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_Delrin_ready.JPG]] | |||
Then mix up epoxy and coat both surfaces of both the hole of the stem and the end of the Delrin (as well as both surfaces of any insert material being used): | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_epoxy.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_applying epoxy.JPG]] | |||
Use a thin even film of epoxy. Rotate and press all the materials against each other to release any air bubbles and squeeze out any extra epoxy: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_glueup.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_glueup2.JPG]] | |||
Carefully wipe away any squeeze out off of the tenon (the squeeze out around and insert materials can be easily trimmed when it's dry, but the tenon should stay as clean as possible). Then use the trimming tool in the cross carriage of the lathe to press the insert materials against the main stem and to each other and lock it into position. Use something chucked into the tail stock to press the Delrin firmly into the stem while the epoxy sets, and lock it into position. | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_clamp.JPG]] | |||
These serve as excellent clamps. If possible, let all this sit overnight, or until well cured (5 minute epoxy will speed the set time in terms of clamping, but will still not be fully cured for some time. It is risky to drill and fit the stem assembly until it is fully cured). When ever possible, I leave the assembly in the lathe through the entire process. During cold or damp weather I leave the light down close over the assembly (as shown above) while the epoxy is curing. | |||
'''to be continued''' | |||