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Using Delrin Tenons: Difference between revisions
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That's it in a nutshell. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes rather quickly for me as I tend to batch most of that by doing 3-4 stems at a time. Way less time than trying to hand turn tenons on a wood lathe. I also prefer the buttery feel of delrin as a tenon over vulcanite - but that's primarily a personal preference. | That's it in a nutshell. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes rather quickly for me as I tend to batch most of that by doing 3-4 stems at a time. Way less time than trying to hand turn tenons on a wood lathe. I also prefer the buttery feel of delrin as a tenon over vulcanite - but that's primarily a personal preference. | ||
==Revised | ==Revised Method w/Photos== | ||
===Intro=== | ===Intro=== | ||
The following outlines a method used allowing the stem and Delrin to be drilled together after the two are assembled | The following outlines a method used allowing the stem and Delrin to be drilled together after the two are assembled. As with any aspect of pipe making, there are many ways to achieve good results with Delrin. The following method is constantly evolving, but may prove helpful to some in developing their own. The pictures show insert material. For more information on using inserts see [[Stem Inserts]]. | ||
As with any aspect of pipe making, there are many ways to achieve good results with Delrin. The following method is constantly evolving, but may prove helpful to some in developing their own | |||
===Preparing the stem=== | ===Preparing the stem=== | ||
Note: If convenient, consider leaving the stem material in the lathe for the entire process (glue up and drilling). This prevents having to re-center it for drilling operations. Multiple sessions where the stem is in and out of the lathe can introduce problems, even with self-centering chucks. | Note: If convenient, consider leaving the stem material in the lathe for the entire process (glue up and drilling). This prevents having to re-center it for drilling operations. Multiple sessions where the stem is in and out of the lathe can introduce problems, even with self-centering chucks. | ||
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[[Image:Inlayed_stem_rounding_Delrin.JPG]] | [[Image:Inlayed_stem_rounding_Delrin.JPG]] | ||
===Glue up=== | ===Glue up=== | ||
First dry fit everything to ensure your fit is good: | First dry fit everything to ensure your fit is good: | ||
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These serve as excellent clamps. If possible, let all this sit overnight, or until well cured (5 minute epoxy will speed the set time in terms of clamping, but will still not be fully cured for some time. It is risky to drill and fit the stem assembly until it is fully cured). When ever possible, I leave the assembly in the lathe through the entire process. During cold or damp weather I leave the light down close over the assembly (as shown above) while the epoxy is curing. | These serve as excellent clamps. If possible, let all this sit overnight, or until well cured (5 minute epoxy will speed the set time in terms of clamping, but will still not be fully cured for some time. It is risky to drill and fit the stem assembly until it is fully cured). When ever possible, I leave the assembly in the lathe through the entire process. During cold or damp weather I leave the light down close over the assembly (as shown above) while the epoxy is curing. | ||
===to | ===Fitting to the stummel=== | ||
Now that our epoxy is fully curred we can fit the Delrin tenon to the mortise. First bevel the tenon so it will not damage the mortise in the stummel, then check the stummel and measure how much to trim off the tenon: | |||
==== | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_bevel delrin.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_checkstummel.JPG]] | |||
Next we transfer the measurement to the stummel and trim the Delrin: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_transfertrim.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_trim_delrin.JPG]] | |||
Next we bevel the tenon again, and recheck that we have it correctly fit to the mortise: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_beveldelrin2.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_check_fit.JPG]] | |||
===Drilling=== | |||
With the tenon correctly fit we can proceed to drill. Using a center drill/countersink first will ensure a nicely centered and secure start to the drilling operation, as well as providing a nice counter sunk draft hole: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrill.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_centerdrilling.JPG]] | |||
Next we measure for the depth of the first drilling. Shown is a 5/32" tapered drill, which does an excellent job of drilling. 5/32" tapered also provides an open draw while tapering down to a smaller hole. Stop about 1/2" to 3/4" short of the end and then follow with a 1/16" drill on through the stem. This last section will eventually flatten out and be funneled wider at the bit end of the stem to provide for a continuous airflow, and yet facilitate a thin comfortable bit: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drilldepth.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling.JPG]] | |||
The drilling is done very slowly in terms of speed and feed rates, and the drill removed often to cool and clear chips. The drill should not be too hot to touch: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling2.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling3.JPG]] | |||
Next we change to the 1/16" drill, and drill completely through the stem. Again, this must be done very slowly and the drill removed to clear chips: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling4.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling5.JPG]] | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_draftdrilling6.JPG]] | |||
===Cleaning up=== | |||
The draft hole can be sanded up though most of it's length by wrapping sandpaper around the 1/16" drill bit. The final 3/4" or so cannot be reached, but it will be carefully opened, filed, sanded, and buffed later. Steel wool does a nice job cleaning up the tenon end after the sanding. | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafsanding.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_drafstellwool.JPG]] | |||
===Finish=== | |||
Here we see the tenon finished, and then the final check with the stummel: | |||
[[Image:Inlayed_stem_finished.JPG]] [[Image:Inlayed_stem_finalcheck.JPG]] | |||
And now the fun really begins! | |||